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Microsquirt to LS1 wiring help needed

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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 06:44 AM
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Default Microsquirt to LS1 wiring help needed

Hey guys. Finally got the old LM7 in my 84 cutlass. I got the fuel system completed yesterday and moved on to the microsquirt wiring. This may be long as I'm a thorough learner and need to get this out there for clarity. At night I do research on the wiring diagram so I'll be ready for when the time comes to install it, I'm not as ready as I thought. The more I read, the more I learn, the more questions I have and DIYautotune has very in broad and vague instructions. Getting power to the main relay and fuel pump relay is simple enough. The temp, map, air intake temp, tps sensors are easy enough. The fuel injectors and coils and crank sensor(if needed) are baffling me. The microsquirt is the AMP'd edition, there are 4 little pulls inside the case, I'll add pic. I don't know if I need them as I feel this is a very common and basic set up. So, do need a crank sensor or does timing come from negative coil wire? Also, can I use two wire for each bank of coils or do I need to utilize ALED and WLED as well? Thanks guys sorry for the long post. I prefer face to face convo but I'll learn.
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 04:44 AM
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Default Passing along some info

This is from DIYautotune:
"To use the WLED and ALED as ignition outputs, you would move the DIP switches for 1 & 2 to the enabled position. You would enable the crank pullup resistor if using a hall effect or optical sensor, but not if using a VR sensor.

To fire the coils, you will use IGN1, IGN2, WLED and ALED. The ignition outputs fire in that order as well, so you will pair the coils to match up with the firing order. For a LS firing order of 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3, you would pair 1-6, 8-5, 7-4, and 3-2. That gives you this firing order with the pairings

IGN1 - 1-6
IGN2 - 8-5
WLED - 7-4
ALED - 3-2
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Old Jul 24, 2022 | 06:02 PM
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Default Just going with it here

I have the microsquirt wired up exactly as shown in the diagram, at least the sensor and power/relay part. As soon as I turn key to run, not start, one of the relays click and I lose power to both relays. When I remove the 2amp fuse that goes to the microsquirt and then turn the key I don't here a click. I've spent hours testing voltage and continuity. The key below the battery is simply a switched source right? If so I'm good there. Like I said I have power for about 2 seconds then a click and the green led on my wideband goes out so I know I lost power to that relay. I'm lost now haha
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Old Jul 25, 2022 | 09:58 AM
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Default Here's where I went wrong

As I stated, I wired this up exactly as the diagram. What I used, though, was 5 pin relays. This messed me up as I don't know circuitry very well. I ended up moving the fuel pumps relay "87" to "87a" and everything came to life and stayed that way. Now I'm calibrating the sensors and O2 sensor.
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