Tuner for fuel Mileage
LS1Tech Sponsor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,235
Likes: 1,526
From: Ohio, Georgia, Nevada, Texas
OP,
You've received some great advice from the community.
It sounds like you're wanting to experiment with the current engine while you build up the one you really want. We'd save the 799 heads for the engine your building. You could stab a cam in the current engine and/or try out HP Tuners and learn how to tune the truck now before you get the new engine in.
Another thing is what is this truck being used for? Is it a daily, daily with some towing, or a dedicated tow rig? Like @07SGguy said it's all in where and when you want the power and what you're willing to put up with. If this is something you tow with often you don't want something that just starts making power at 3,000 rpm.
When it comes time for a cam for either the current engine or one being built we have some options for you. For a strong all-around 6.0 truck cam take a look at our Pro LS SUM-8728R1 known as the "Big Truck Torkinator". Specs on it are .600/.585, 212/218, 110+3 with -5* of overlap. We designed this cam to provide great torque from 2,000 on up. It will pull well to 6,500 when you're feeling sporty and be easy on the valvetrain with a quality .600" lift beehive. It will have a steady lope and require a custom tune but it will be easy to get along with. With that -5* of overlap it will be just fine with your shorties. Long tubes would provide nice power/torque gains but we understand if you don't want to run a whole new exhaust. With a 33* intake valve closing it will work well with the stock torque converter.
Another option we could see working well here is our Pro LS Truck stage 2 high-lift SUM-8720R1. Specs on it are .600/.600, 218/227, 112+2 with -1* of overlap. With a 36* intake valve closing, it will move power to the right from the 8728R1. That's pretty much where we set the limit for use with a stock converter. It would be plenty daily friendly in a heavy truck with a 6.0. Those 4.10 gears would certainly help get the truck up and moving for towing. It will be happy out to 6,500+ with our same .600" lift beehives we linked above.
For a nice little bump in compression, you can go with .040" head gaskets. These will bump compression up around 0.3 of a point compared to factory .051" head gaskets. The added benefit is reducing the quench distance. Reducing the quench distance into the optimal quench range of .035-.045" improves combustion efficiency and helps reduce the chance of knock.
Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!
You've received some great advice from the community.
It sounds like you're wanting to experiment with the current engine while you build up the one you really want. We'd save the 799 heads for the engine your building. You could stab a cam in the current engine and/or try out HP Tuners and learn how to tune the truck now before you get the new engine in.
Another thing is what is this truck being used for? Is it a daily, daily with some towing, or a dedicated tow rig? Like @07SGguy said it's all in where and when you want the power and what you're willing to put up with. If this is something you tow with often you don't want something that just starts making power at 3,000 rpm.
When it comes time for a cam for either the current engine or one being built we have some options for you. For a strong all-around 6.0 truck cam take a look at our Pro LS SUM-8728R1 known as the "Big Truck Torkinator". Specs on it are .600/.585, 212/218, 110+3 with -5* of overlap. We designed this cam to provide great torque from 2,000 on up. It will pull well to 6,500 when you're feeling sporty and be easy on the valvetrain with a quality .600" lift beehive. It will have a steady lope and require a custom tune but it will be easy to get along with. With that -5* of overlap it will be just fine with your shorties. Long tubes would provide nice power/torque gains but we understand if you don't want to run a whole new exhaust. With a 33* intake valve closing it will work well with the stock torque converter.
Another option we could see working well here is our Pro LS Truck stage 2 high-lift SUM-8720R1. Specs on it are .600/.600, 218/227, 112+2 with -1* of overlap. With a 36* intake valve closing, it will move power to the right from the 8728R1. That's pretty much where we set the limit for use with a stock converter. It would be plenty daily friendly in a heavy truck with a 6.0. Those 4.10 gears would certainly help get the truck up and moving for towing. It will be happy out to 6,500+ with our same .600" lift beehives we linked above.
For a nice little bump in compression, you can go with .040" head gaskets. These will bump compression up around 0.3 of a point compared to factory .051" head gaskets. The added benefit is reducing the quench distance. Reducing the quench distance into the optimal quench range of .035-.045" improves combustion efficiency and helps reduce the chance of knock.
Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!
