When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After doing blow through and catching my car on fire, and having terrible tip in response, and only having 3 companies really rebuild blow through carbs I've decided to ditch the carb set up and go EFI
In addition to this I realized a lot of the street car classes specify that I need a hood covering the entire engine bay. So I will also be relocating turbos to fit inside the engine bay so I can put a hood on the car. I got the cheapest mirror turbos I could find which so happen to be T4. 67/62's by vs racing. The turbos should be good for 1300whp+ but I'm pretty happy with 430 ish wheel on 8lbs on street tires when it's dry outside. I want to invest in some traction control so I can get more rowdy with my boost levels and tunes without writing off the car.
I've never tuned before and I had some members from LS1TECH give me their nexus R3 LS tune files and I've been slowly chipping away at it. I've also got a harness made by Tuned By Shawn that should be plug and play
Today I need to keep working on the base tune file, and working on assigning outputs for the correct wires and sensors on harness as well as CAD some brackets to get sent out for laser cutting
Right now the Slova is at a friend's 40' x 80' heated barn shop for winter and I'm excited to get the band saw and Tig welder out to work. I've never tiged an exhaust before so this will be a learning experience. Going to have many after work nights working on the car and sleeping in the barn
I spent the money for 1 months subscription of Ewans Performance Acadeny for Haltech NSP software and I've been trying to absorb as much as I can as fast as I can
If you want to be amused, I just spent 3 hours checking and correcting pins only to realized I was counting pin numbers backwards
Anyhoo
Trying to figure out if I need the alternator wires (18 gauge exciting wires?) if I have a 1 wire alternator I plan to use.
Also I want to use the on board map sensor, but still have the hole and wiring connector for the one for the intake manifold. Wondering if I can acquire a junkyard one and have it just kind of there as a reference and using the on board one for all the offset tables
Also not sure what to do with steppers if I have dbw and no IAC
If you have a 4 pin alternator you can wire the L terminal to a switched 12v source using an appropriate resistor. If you do not use a resistor it will ultimately burn up the alternator.
But my confusion came from the harness that I purchased. It has 2 wires that say "alternator" on em, and they are wired to 25 amp output on the VCU. Which doesn't make sense. One of the "alternator" wires goes to the injector power, which makes sense as a DPO, but the other end going to the alt doesn't make sense.
I think it's because the harness I have is a converted elite harness and it got its power from the alternator to the inejctors
The alt I plan to run says it's a 1 wire with no need for an exciting wire
See the big copper lug on the case? Don't ignore it. Run a 4 gauge cable from that lug to the engine block. Also, be mindful of alternator RPM. PowerMaster clearly states not to exceed 1.85k RPM. Do the math with your crank pulley and select the appropriate alternator pulley. I'd guess a 2.85" pulley should meet your needs.
Yeah I got a 3" one, may under spin it at idle but hopefully everything I have draws less current as I wanted to run a 14 volt battery. I actually forgot to add it in the parts list I first ordered
When I get time at home where the harness is I'll explain the pins and wires going to the alternator that do not make sense. The r3 vcm should only need it's 1 big positive and negative to get enough current to all the pins and having a 25 amp DPO doesn't make sense to be hooked up to vehicle + voltage since it won't matter the state of DPO pin if it's hooked up to +12 v source all the time
Went over to the Dues' racing shop to learn me some Tig and the Harbobo bandsaw I just got doesn't work. So going to harass them about getting a replacement part today and take care of some responsibilities
Here's how she sits
CADed me up a dash stand, hall effect sensor bracket to pick up off the steel bolts for the wilwood brakes, a nexus stand/bracket, and some rad support brackets since I deleted the entire front frame. Parts should be in tomorrow then I'll need to get to welding
I'll have to schedule an appointment to call the people that built the harness for the alternator wire question
My ls2 intake makes slight interference with the truck water pump neck, also makes interference with the trans dipstick tube, and the valley cover bolts. I want to get some fresh junkyard knock sensors and knock harness, and I've been thinking of countersinking the bolts on the valley myself for the clearance.
My mechanical fan is going to have to go. I'm going to run a spal 2,000 cfm fan to the rad instead and run it as a 25 amp dpo from the nexus, I want to have one 25amp dpo on the nexus in case I want to run the headlights off of it. The fuel pump I'll keep wired on a switched relay as I have it already
The way the harness is done the wires on it are on a pulsed output that can pwm, but it goes to both the injector 12v and alternator which doesn't make sense as it is now. If I were to pwm alternator output (which not sure if that one can do it), I'd have to go to a seperate pulsed output in the vcu. Which is no biggie but I'm leaning toward just running the big ol 4 gauge off the alt lug and calling it a day
I have an intercooler with two inlets and 1 3" outlet. I'm trying to figure out if I want to have the outlet going over the radiator or under the radiator. And I have a bunch of 4" aluminum tubing, small amount of 3.5" tubing, and no 3" tubing. So I was going to convert the ic outlet to the size I decide to run. I was thinking of oblonging/ovaling out the 4" pipe and originally planned to go over the rad and notch the good. But I suppose I could go under the rad now that I'm going to run a E fan
Plenty of room under the hood. I tried welding thin stainless thinking it'd be easy like aluminum. It was not haha, still learning. Ordered wheel speed sensor a. Hoping I can get my intercooler mounted today
Completely forgot to plug -8 orb ports on the radium rails, and due to that completely missed my first start calibration appointment with tuned by Shawn. 1 day shipped the plugs, calibrated a few more sensors and tried starting again and got nothing
But this is how she currently sits, made my own downpipes there
I have a decent amount of questions. My harness is a reworked 2500 harness (early adopter smdh). I have 25 A HCO powering injectors and a bunch of other misc things like sensors and whatnot. Is it possible to assign a output to more than 1 thing? Or let the software know that a certain output or application is getting power from somewhere other than a pin out on the vcu?
I got a base file from you or someone else on here I believe that I have loaded in with my injector characterization data. I'll dive deeper into what is keeping me from firing up when I get the car back to my place
for general powering things, you should use the engine control relay (ECR) function. you can assign several outputs to it.
i have an r5 so im using the 8a hco outputs for accessories and such. i believe you could use the HBOs for that. just using a 25a output for a bunch of stuff kinda takes away the advantage of the solid state fusing, but with an r3 theres only so much you can do.
for assigning an output to multiple things, yes you can. it will show an error but it will work. thats how i have some stuff configured in mine with the starter bump button and some of the transbrake stuff i think. if you have more specific info i can offer better suggestions. using generic conditions is a way i have done it. when selecting outputs or inputs you can select generic conditions the same as any other IO.
for general powering things, you should use the engine control relay (ECR) function. you can assign several outputs to it.
i have an r5 so im using the 8a hco outputs for accessories and such. i believe you could use the HBOs for that. just using a 25a output for a bunch of stuff kinda takes away the advantage of the solid state fusing, but with an r3 theres only so much you can do.
for assigning an output to multiple things, yes you can. it will show an error but it will work. thats how i have some stuff configured in mine with the starter bump button and some of the transbrake stuff i think. if you have more specific info i can offer better suggestions. using generic conditions is a way i have done it. when selecting outputs or inputs you can select generic conditions the same as any other IO.
Yeah I can see how it defeats the purpose. Most stuff on it isn't amperage intensive so it doesn't bother me that much. I have it going to hall effect sensors, powering can and dash, coils, and I'm sure random sensors I'm forgetting
I really appreciate the help. I have tuned by Shawn I bought all my stuff through and between the discount and not paying tax his prices were cheaper even when he threw in his tuning service. I meant to use it for first start yesterday but that's when I noticed I forgot the rail plugs and had to cancel/reschedule
Once I get the car back to my place I'll bang my head on an issue and try and figure it out before asking
Much appreciate the help and maybe we can help some others on here if they happen to read this
Well instead of being a responsible adult and cleaning up the barn to get out of it, or adding the timing mark with welding wire for the tuner on the 30th, I decided to fiddle with the car a bit
I calibrated a bunch more sensors and got it using the onboard map, set the fuel pressure sensor correct
I can get the car to fire over once or twice which I assume is in batch for fast starts while cranking. Also in between attempting to start I saw ignition coil voltage drop to like 1 volt at one point. Also got over current dtc's for all hco 25A's I assume is because voltage was dropping too low
Ignition angle was initially 70, I tried 364, 441, and 710 and saw no change. I zeroed out crank fuel correction and confirmed injector data was correct
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
SLOVA Nexus R3 Install and Learning to Tune 
