No Crank No Start
I have an LS Swapped 350z on a Wiring Specialties Harness. Car ran great for a year or so until a nitrous backfire… Blew the MAF and Intake tubing. It also ruined my O2 sensors.
Well, I went ahead and swapped the damaged parts and had some trouble finding the right O2 sensor. When I finally found the correct O2 sensor, car stalled out and now I’m at this No Crank situation. I had a feeling that it was a shorted PCM, so I swapped it with a spare PCM I had.
With the spare PCM, it cranked over but didn’t start because it’s not programmed yet. I thought I was done there but when I went ahead and decided to give my car another crank… and now it doesn’t even crank at all again.
I noticed I have no power to my fuel pump and no power to my coil packs. My OBD2 does not work either.
I plan on diagnosing it by doing the following steps, if I missed any possible steps, please advise.
Battery is brand new - Keep that in mind
- Check CanBus box
- Jump Starter Relay
- Check Ignition Switch
- Clean all grounds
- Check all fuses and relay - Starter, IGN, PCM
- Breakout Box OBD2
- Check PCM Pin 19, 20, & 57 for Voltage
- Check Coil Pack - Pink Wire 12v
- Check Starter Lug for Constant 12v
- Check Starter Connector for 12v
- Crank Sensor?
- Ignition Switch?
Here is your original thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...-detailed.html
Start by determining why it won't crank; you don't need the PCM to crank.
Check voltage at your starter. The starter signal starts at the ignition switch and may go through a transmission safety switch to ensure you are not in gear, and then to either the starter or the starter relay. Thats all you need to crank.
Once you get cranking, then check power/fuses to the PCM and others. The PCM provides power to the coils through a fuse. May also be a fuse for the injectors. The fuel pump should be on a relay; check that the relay always has power after a fuse.
The PCM then signals the fuel pump relay.
If the PCM doesn't have VATS disabled, the car will briefly start and die after about 1 second.
Spray starter fluid into the the TB while cranking. If it briefly starts, the PCM, ignition, crank sensor and more are all working and you only have a fuel problem.
Here is your original thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...-detailed.html
Start by determining why it won't crank; you don't need the PCM to crank.
Check voltage at your starter. The starter signal starts at the ignition switch and may go through a transmission safety switch to ensure you are not in gear, and then to either the starter or the starter relay. Thats all you need to crank.
Once you get cranking, then check power/fuses to the PCM and others. The PCM provides power to the coils through a fuse. May also be a fuse for the injectors. The fuel pump should be on a relay; check that the relay always has power after a fuse.
The PCM then signals the fuel pump relay.
If the PCM doesn't have VATS disabled, the car will briefly start and die after about 1 second.
Spray starter fluid into the the TB while cranking. If it briefly starts, the PCM, ignition, crank sensor and more are all working and you only have a fuel problem.
As for my previous thread, I apologize for creating a new thread as I believe that this one is not necessarily the same. BUT it is a snowball effect of bad luck lol. It all started with that O2 sensor issue… then next thing you know, now my car doesn’t even want to crank over, which I believe is a different can of worms.
Feel free to merge it if you deem so. Again, thank you for your response man! I really appreciate any help I get.





