Where do I go for a tune?
back story:
Hey there so previous owner of my car had it switched from manual to automatic & sat in my drive way for 5 years then I got it running and bottom of transmission harness wasnt connected to the computer so it was all manually shifting it got stolen and person romped on it belt came off and when I trie driving it with belt bavk on it was fine until I got to 20 mph rpm sky rocketed. It wont shift into 3rd or 4th Reva but no acceleration. So had it towed and shop says by driving it and looking at it or whatever they do 3rd and 4th is burnt up..I then realized they put the wrong lockdown cable its way shorter than what its supposed to be. It was like way behind the throttle cable. So Im assuming that it was pulling to much or not enough. Heres the specs of my car from the owner before the last one. He said he dosnt remember specs on the cam but he does know: its around .600 lift and .285 duration. Heads are ported LS1 2.02/1.60 with Cometic gaskets, Manley Valves and I think Comp valve springs, forged JE pistons with Manley forged rods and a forged crank but I dont remember the brand. Strange 12-bolt rear and axles with 3.73 gears. It had Hotchkis suspension all around at the time. Everything that came from the factory was replaced except for the springs and those were Eibach.The motor was 11-1 compression so it should run pump 93 on the street.
It sounds super good by the way. But I was told 700r4 shouldnt be in there & dont have enough money to get it rebuilt and found a 4L60E thats coming out of a 2000 gmc sierra v6 (it was just rebuilt a little over a year ago at a shop). So o bought a wiring harness for $360 & was told to check my cam and see which torque converter and then hook it all up and then Ill have to pay $250 - $400 or $500 to get it told hey your an automatic. So drive like one am I on the right path or what all exactly do I do? ( I also keep getting a code from day one1-4 skip shift solenoid (thinking its because it thinks its manual still) & transmission fluid was pretty dark & it seemed like it would be low then too full and fluxute. Doubt thats relevant. Someone please help me..
2) Tailshaft will need to be changed to F-body version to mount your torque arm, or get a tunnel mount torque arm.
3) Really not sure at all what help you're asking for here. Your PCM likely has a manual trans tune in it. I'm not a tuner, so I have no idea if they can just enable auto trans control functions or if you would need a different PCM. If the factory wiring harness is set up for a manual trans, did you buy a complete PCM wiring harness for an automatic trans application?
How it appears to me: You need to have your factory PCM flashed ( or replaced if need be ) with a tune that can operate your (new) trans. You have to have the trans wired correctly. You need a trans that will work with your engine that isn't going to fail because the engine has higher output. A stock rebuilt V6 van version just isn't going to cut it.
As for finding a tuner, you should just look around your area online for shops that do tunes with HP Tuners. Around me, there are a bunch.





