obZidian

iTrader: (2)

you wrap the teflon around the sensor?

Predator

obZ, there used to be copy of that GM TSB floating around somewhere, but I can't seem to locate it again. I'll try to explain what to do, it's pretty easy:

After you get the intake off, take off your wire and disconnect it from the sensors and the connector to the pcm. Remove the old sensors and clean everything up, the valley, the holes where the sensors go. Screw in the new sensors, torque to spec. Install the new wire routing it to the left but making sure it won't be under the intake where it seats, that will cause a crushed wire and you'll have to replace the wire again. Get your intake and remove the foam squares under the intake, these piece(s) of foam serve no useful purpose except to wick and hold water under the intake which causes the sensors to corrode. If you want, palm sand a little material off the bottom of the intake where the wire will route to ensure the wire won't get pinched. Get some silicone red RTV and make a little dam around the rubber boots leaving a little opening toward the firewall for water to drain out should it get wet under there. Reinstall the intake doublechecking to make sure the wire isn't getting pinched. Button everything up. That's about all there is to it.

One tip, if you've never taken off the intake, is that you don't have to disconnect the fuel line, just fold the fuel rails over to the right after you pull it off the intake. Also, when reinstalling the intake, put the back bolts in place before seating the intake because you won't be able to get the bolts in after the intake is seated.

If you have any problems, just post, or email me if you want.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

The thread where it goes in.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

thanks ya'll!!!

Hey, i came across this in the hp tuners site....let me know where to find something called KNOCK GLOBAL GAIN VS. RPM ETC....

I know this post is old but I came across it while doing some searching for PE tuning advice..

At any rate.. My 98 WS6 had knock problems bone stock on 94 octane gas.. After I put a lid, exhaust, pacesetter longtubes and a TSP catted-y I still had the retard.. heck.. I even sold an ASP pulley that was probably perfectly good!!

Basically I was given the advice that since I "know" it's false knock to just back off the knock sensors a tad under the Knock Global Gain vs. RPM vs. MAP vs. Cyl table (think I have those in the right order) to a value of 4 from 55Kpa up (where the separation point is).

Well.. I'm always a little conservative so I tried just setting it to 2 in those cells and scanned the car again. Presto.. no retard.. timing creeping back up with each subsequent run. My Knock Learn factor was hovering at 0.39 and until it reaches 1.0 you don't get full timing. My problem was I consistently was bombing around on 22 to 24 degree's of timing at WOT. Poop!

Anyhow.. I backed it off to 1.5 and tried again.. no knock! Then I leaned out my PE a bit more then I already had and it pulled 1 degree in various spots.. Bravo! They still worked! Moved the PE back to where it was previously and I should be fairly safe till I but the newer Knocks and replace the garbage that is in there when I do my LS6 intake next year.

Hope that helps!

This is from a member called nightriderws6 and apparently he found a possible solution for flase knock in our 98'z....

Any comments on this and where i may find this? Im looking at my software now nd the only thing that resembles is

KNOCK FAST ATTACK GAIN VS BARO, ECT.

or

ATTACK RATE VS RPM; RECOVERY RATE VS RPM

Predator

My only comment is that it could be a band-aid fix until the knock sensors and wire are replaced, and the KS TSB is accomplished. He's right about the LS6 intake too, best to take care of all that at once. The thing is, with new knock sensors, you won't have to desensitize them, and you really don't want your sensors desensitized except as a last resort, when all else fails.

Predator

Just to add, ESPECIALLY if you have a '98 you want to get those malfunctioning knock sensors replaced.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

so, basically, which i figured s much, desensitizing the sensors whould be a last resort.

THe thing is, i dont have my 90mm setup yet so it would suck taking her apart twice. But, on the bright side, i'm gaining experience...

thanks predator......im gonna go ahead and replace the sensors. I had a thought that maybe i had a bent pushrod. recently, i had to replace four valve springs because they were defective and broke. Only one though broke down and shattered, while the other three just cracked and never slipped off there grooves. (still intact) So i feel that there is a possibility that there is a valvetrain issue that may need some attention.

Wat kind of damage would this cause?

Also, i have yella terra rockers and i thing that they are hitting the valve cover...say some markings on both the rockers and valve cover. Will check all of this out but for sure im gonna replace the sensors to liminate a possible trouble area.

thanks again...

hey, just to know, is the global knock gain i mentioned before the same as my knock attack gain vs rpm?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

"Also, i have yella terra rockers and i thing that they are hitting the valve cover...say some markings on both the rockers and valve cover. Will check all of this out but for sure im gonna replace the sensors to liminate a possible trouble area."

That would cause knock......

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

yeah, it would....just noticed something strange today as well. Im getting a substancial amount of oil sprayed on my hood...

gonna take some pics....where is this coming from?

it mostly on the driver side and noticeably more oil when she gets really hot.

thanks ya'll!!

Josh McGrath

iTrader: (4)

would this cause low rpm, 1400-2200 pinging of 3-12*? I deffinatly hear it pinging though.

88gtman

And you are not getting any false knock readings?