I've got the idle tuning with edit done as much to my abilities but still wanted 0 hesitation or stumble at idle. So instead of drilling I used the set-screw slightly . . . did the tps unplug and 0'd it out . . . but I'm still throwing a code.

It's a brand new sensor and the Jantzer is less than a year old . . . is the set-screw modification throwing the SES? Even after I uplugged the tps? When I swapped in a new one I kept the battery off for 5 minutes with no success.

It takes a few driving miles but the weird thing is I drove 200 miles on the highway without throwing the code whatsoever; once I drove 10 city miles SES

If I need to put the screw back to it's original position, how do I determine where that is? It wasn't like I was keeping an accurate measurement on how far I turned the screw

Could the TB be bad somehow?

This really sucks because, with the screw modified, I've got PERFECT IAC'S with no hunting, bumbling, or stumbling a/c on or off



Christopher's Onyx Black 2001 SLP T/A Firehawk M6 #89

Bilsteins, Chrome Rims, Deck Mat, Birth Certificate, Portfolio

PERFORMANCE: Jung's S3 Heads | TSP 237/242 MS3 | '03 Viper Tranny | F.A.S.T. LSX 90mm Intake Manifold | Kooks 1 7/8”, 3” Y with Corsa | Spec S3 Kevlar Clutch | SLP Hi-Flow Radiator | Meziere EWP 160* | LPE 3 1/2" Aluminum Driveshaft | F.A.S.T. 90 mm TB | De-screened MAF | TSP Clear Lid-K&N | ASP Crank Pulley | LS6 Ported Oil Pump | Rollmaster Double-Roller Timing Chain | SLP Bellows | NGK Plugs-MSD'S | Harlan's Shiftlight | FRA | TBB | tuned by Me | Crane Valvetrain with PP .650 lift springs | Hotchkis SFC's & STB | Mac Rear-End Cover | Stock Hurst with UMI Short Stick | SLP Reverse Logic Module | New '04 LS1 engine at 48K mi | Brembo Slotted and Cross-drilled Rotors with Red Calipers.

COSMETIC: Granatelli 200 mph White Gauges, Custom Front Air Dam, Custom Firehawk Fuel Rail Covers, Custom Firehawk Headrest Embroidery, Custom Carbon Fiber Interior, Custom Red Leather Interior, Custom Red Carpet, Custom Red Tubing for Engine Bay, Mallory Billet Polished Aluminum Interior, Pioneer 10" Stealth Box, Clear Corner Lenses, Trans Am Valve Stems.

Brenda's 2001 Racing Red WS6 A4

SLP Loudmouth Exhaust, SLP Lid-K&N, Jantzer S2 TB, Bilstein Shocks, Eibach Lowering Springs, UMI SFC'S/STB, Brembo Slotted/Cross Drilled Rotors with Red Calipers, Clear Corner Lenses, Trans Am Valve Stems.

 

Oooookay . . . I left the code alone this time since I'll be installing the FAST 90/90 next week . . . after less than 5 city miles the code went away

Don't know if it was the sensor or not at this point . . . and I won't really know if it's my TB because it comes out next week

If anyone had a similar experience or, even better, knows the problem and it's subsequent fix, assuming mine isn't fixed, please feel free to chime in

 

I'll have to double check, but I believe I had to alter the P0121 min/max so it wouldn't trip the code on a few cars.

 

In what table would that be? Is this with Edit?

Thank you for replying

 

You can adjust this with any software, Edit, HPT, or Flashscan. Its going to be under diagnostics somewhere in the program.

 

I'll look for it, thanks!!

 

How do I modify this code??

This is what Edit 1.52 shows me:


PO121 Parameters
Max MAP 55
Min MAP 65

And THANK YOU very much for the help!!!

 

MIN MAP 75
MAX MAP 85

And your welcome. Let me know if it resolves the problem.

 

Thank you again!

I'll let you know in a few days of driving after the upload of the modified program

 

Correct me if I'm mis-informed but do you mean these numbers in reverse?

Max 75
and Min 85??

 

No, MIN 75
MAX 85

 

Ok. Cool I was just curious because, in the stock settings, the max is 10 lower than the min

I'll upload your figures right now

 

I double checked myself when I replied just to make sure.

 

Just to update: this definitely fixed it

 

Good to hear!

 

Lower vacuum from the cam = higher MAP operating range.

Rob (Bad30th)

 

That fixed my 121 code also.

Bill