Throwing 10 Codes!!!! help me ASAP
Throwing 10 Codes!!!! help me ASAP Alright guys i just got my headers installed with no cats, and there is no rear 02's cause im gonna get them cleared anyways..However lately the car runs like crap sometimes, it bogs alot, and sometimes Idles weird, so a friend of mine put it on his scanner and here are the codes that popped up..
P0102-MAF Sensor Circuit Low Frequency
P0103-MAF Sensor Circuit High Frequency
P0140-H02S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0160-H02S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0404-EGR Open Position Performance
P1404-EGR Closed Position Performance
And then these codes repeat themselves
P0102
P0103
P0140
P0160
So i dont know if they all have to do with the same thing. i know having no cats with no 02's will cause a couple of those, but the ones with the EGR and MAF im clueless about. Everyone i talked to said the just take the EGR and Air off the car, but the that still leaves me with the MAF code..If someone could PLEASE help me out that would be AWESOME thanks
JacobK
P0102-MAF Sensor Circuit Low Frequency
P0103-MAF Sensor Circuit High Frequency
P0140-H02S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0160-H02S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0404-EGR Open Position Performance
P1404-EGR Closed Position Performance
And then these codes repeat themselves
P0102
P0103
P0140
P0160
So i dont know if they all have to do with the same thing. i know having no cats with no 02's will cause a couple of those, but the ones with the EGR and MAF im clueless about. Everyone i talked to said the just take the EGR and Air off the car, but the that still leaves me with the MAF code..If someone could PLEASE help me out that would be AWESOME thanks
JacobK
My MAF codes are because I have MAF ends installed. The EGR ones sound like your EGR isn't or hasn't worked properly in the past. I would clear them and see if the set again.
I have basically all the same codes on my car right now.
Brian
I have basically all the same codes on my car right now.
Brian
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,242
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From: Lakeland, FL
These two are obviously from the rear sensors not being there.
P0140-H02S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0160-H02S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2
Get some o2 sims.
Like the other guy said is the egr still hooked up right?
P0404-EGR Open Position Performance
P1404-EGR Closed Position Performance
P0140-H02S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0160-H02S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2
Get some o2 sims.
Like the other guy said is the egr still hooked up right?
P0404-EGR Open Position Performance
P1404-EGR Closed Position Performance
I think the bogging could have to do with the rear 02's throwing a code!! Sometimes to the system will try and compinsate for it by added fuel or closing the injector sooner cause it thinks theres a problem, but in your case there isnt one, they just arent there!! Also with the MAF, stupid question but, did you get it wet or have you pull the MAFS off to see if there is anything wrong with the tiny little metal barbs that connect from one pin to the other?? If you by chance have a K&N filter and it has too much oil on it, that can cause the MAF to freak out if the oil hits it!!!
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well i had a granatelli MAF, but i traded it for a stocker because i heard the granatelli one doesnt work good, but i never got the stock MAF wet at all. So i should get all my codes deleted and that woulf probably help me out alot correct?
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o2 sims in the rear for the bank codes! Pull the EGR hoses to make sure they are not clogged. And if you had the GMAFS and had a retune for it, then went back to stock then that could be the problem with that!
when the GMAFS was in the car i dont believe it had a tune for it, i bought the car with it already on. Thats why i installed a stocker. Cant i just take the complete EGR and Air system off the car.?
As mentioned above rear o2 will have nothing to do with the car bogging. It took about 30-40 miles of driving with no o2's or sims before my ses light came on and when it did there was no change in the way it drove.
Have you cheked to make sure everything was reconnected and there are no pinched wires ? I know someone who had a similar problem and it turned out to be the wiring harness for the front 02 on the driver side was rubbing on the header tubes and burned. It threw a bunch of different codes. You might want to make sure all your connections/wiring is secured and clear of anything. Also have you looked at your plug wires , maybe one is touching the header and burned ? Might explain the bogging.
You can delete the EGR and AIR but I believe you'll need those programmed out as well along with the rear o2's.
Have you cheked to make sure everything was reconnected and there are no pinched wires ? I know someone who had a similar problem and it turned out to be the wiring harness for the front 02 on the driver side was rubbing on the header tubes and burned. It threw a bunch of different codes. You might want to make sure all your connections/wiring is secured and clear of anything. Also have you looked at your plug wires , maybe one is touching the header and burned ? Might explain the bogging.
You can delete the EGR and AIR but I believe you'll need those programmed out as well along with the rear o2's.
I would delete the codes and see which ones come back. The O2 codes should not be a concern. If EGR returns then replace what is wrong or remove it from the car completely. If the drivability problem persists you could have an ignition problem that isn't setting a code. Bad plugs, wires etc. That is what I would start with.
Forgot to mention check your fuses and make sure nothing is blown. If the O2 fuse was blown though it would show a front O2 problem. You don't need EGR, AIR, or the O2 programmed out to prevent bogging, it should run fine.
Brian
Forgot to mention check your fuses and make sure nothing is blown. If the O2 fuse was blown though it would show a front O2 problem. You don't need EGR, AIR, or the O2 programmed out to prevent bogging, it should run fine.
Brian
Well i was gonna remove the EGR and Air anyways, so i think i will just do that, and get all those codes, plus the 02's deleted out and see what happens. I just replaced my plugs, but i know the wires need to be replaced. So i will do that too
You might want to pull a few of the plugs and see what they look like, check the gap again too. Get the new wires on there too. Typically with the addition of long tubes these cars will have a tendency to run rich and if you're plug gap is off or they are the wrong heat range that could make things even worse.
I honestly don't think clearing the codes is going to make the car drive better, they are a result of a problem(s) not the cause of it.
good luck
I honestly don't think clearing the codes is going to make the car drive better, they are a result of a problem(s) not the cause of it.
good luck
you shouldn't have maf codes after a long tube install. reset the codes, if it keeps coming up, try unplugging the maf to see if it changes or stays the same. you want to clear the codes so that you know its not an old code that was thrown before and is no longer a problem. also yes remove the egr and air if your state doesnt have emmissions testing. it will throw all kinds of codes for egr AIR rear o2s, maybe even the o2 heater codes. you will then need to get your car tuned to remove the codes.
Originally Posted by JacobK
im sooo lost what can i do to fix my car
10 codes?!?!?!? Take it to Tony and have them put a basic tune in it. That'll get rid of the codes and make it run better most of the time.
