I thought I would post my install of an LC-1 wideband in my car. I don't have cats on my car, and I did not want to ruin the coating on my headers or y-pipe by drilling and welding on them, so I chose to mount the wideband at the rearward end of my y-pipe (the coating there was already worn off from someone using a different I-pipe on it). I was originally going to mount it in my I-pipe, but I wanted to keep the wideband a decent distance away from my cutout to prevent any outside air contamination. Choosing that location also allowed me to mount the sensor on top of the pipe to avoid any vapor issues. My procedure was to mark the location in the y that I wanted, take it off and drill a hole for the sensor (I think I used a 5/8 drill). Then I proceded to weld the O2 bung on (with a torch and some safety wire as my filler rod ). It actually worked really good and didn't leak at all. Then I put the y-pipe back on and put the sensor in to check fit. It fit up perfect, and the sensor was far enough away from the driveshaft. I then ran the wires for the LC-1. I tied the LC-1 controller to my subframe connector on the pass side, then ran the wires over the pass side exhaust shield towards the tranny mount. From there I ran the wires to the front and up under the clutch hose heat shield. I wrapped the wires in loom and kept them close to the clutch line. Then out under the hood and wired it up. There was a blank TCS fuse on my car, so thats what I used for the O2 heater. There was a factory ground on the fenderwell, and for the laptop I just ran the wires in thru the window of the door since this is temporary.

Now, if you have an LC-1 there are 2 analog outputs for it. Output 1 simulates a narrowband O2. You don't want that, I made that mistake. Otherwise wiring was pretty easy. I wired the system ground and analog ground together. Got everything wired, calibrated the LC-1 and was good to go. Hope this helps someone. Pete.

 

Good to know that works. That was my only concern after reading the install directions.

 

definately ground the white and blue to the same location. makes all the difference in the world

 

Yep, that's another little thing thats easy to miss in the directions. Innovate actually warns you about seperate grounds in the troubleshooting section.

 

Could you explain? I've got my system gnd (white) connected to the data logger gnd, and heater gnd (blue) to chassis gnd, as per instructions. Will this cause problems?

 

Mine didn't work worth a **** like that. Why, I don't know. I followed the instructions that came with the LC-1 to a T. When I grounded my white and blue to the chassis, everything worked.

By not working worth a ****, I mean I wasn't even geting a usable output from the LC-1.

 

You have it connected correctly. In the case of a 7 wire (current version) LC-1 you should wire the heater ground (blue) to chassis ground. Then you should wire the system ground (white) and analog ground (green) together and they get connected to the HPtuner ground wire in the EIO (black if I remember right). Hope that clears it up.

 

but the welding (safety wire) was the true skill to the install

 

Ya speedfreak, I know. I would not recommend it, but it did the job for me to get it installed over the weekend (and to make sure I was far away from the driveshaft ). I am going to have it actually welded (with a MIG) this week, I just couldn't get that done on a sunday.

 

Is it ok to leave it in.

 

grounding those two together didn't work for me I had to ground the two in a seperat location or it wouldn't calabrate itself.

 

dc, I am assuming you are asking if its OK to leave the wideband in the exhaust. The answer is yes, but it MUST BE POWERED to leave it in. Innovate said if you leave an unpowered (unheated) sensor in it will be junk fairly quick. I have mine still installed because I am not done tuning yet, been in there for 2 weeks now.