OK I have read where you should copy the high octane table into the low octane table BEFORE you start tuning since the MAF refers to low octane in SD.

I have also read where you leave your low octane table alone while tuning the VE Table.

Which way is goin to give me quicker and better results? Also which way do you tune the VE Table? I mean is the timing going to effect the VE Table that much? I will be reusing my MAF so, I am not going over 4000 RPMS. PE disabled.

1. (-+LTFT%) + (-+STFT%)= Fianl % Learned
2. Disable LTFT and use STFT only

I am using method #1. Also is it that necesarry to "reset" the fuel trims everytime you make changes to the VE table. IF so then you hav eto drive another 100 miles before you can get accurate readings correct.

Dave

 

The stickies in this forum have a great deal of information on how to tune your VE and why you are doing those things. Search goes a long way too.

When you disconnect/fail your MAF, the PCM reverts to the low octane table. Yes, timing very much effect fueling. You want to copy the high octane table to the low octane table so you can ensure your timing is consistant while you tune.

There are various ways of using trims to tune your VE table. IMO, it's not worth the effort. Pick up a WBO2. A WB will give you a much clearer picture of what's going on in your motor.

If you do use LTFT's to tune, you do need to reset them before logging.

 

I have done a search and have found two different methods concerning the octane setting. Thats why I was asking. I think i'm just going to copy mine. Also I set MAF fail freq to "0", disabled PE and have already driven about 120 miles. I then logged about 20 miles of LTFT & STFT. I then used (-+LTFT%) + (-+STFT%) = Final % learned, and paste special, mutiply % by half into the VE table. About half my LTFT averaged -12 to -15. I am now going to reset my fuel trims then drive about 100 more miles. Then if LTFT are all within -+10% I will disable LTFT learning and use STFT only to adjust the VE table. Hopefully this will work out for me. Also gotta quick question for you guys. I had a custum "dyno tune" about a year ago. The car made 420RWHP. It runs like a raped ape. Mods are below:

232/236 .574 .577 112
pulley
lid, filter
headers
lanes duals X pipe
de-screened MAf
Shaner S3 throttle body
12bolt 4:10
M6, 02 Z28

My concern is that I have always gotten crappy gas milage, thats why I bought HPTuners so I can learn on my own and try to tune this myself. Well i got my stock bin also. I was comparing it to the dyno tune and saw where the VE table & MAF were never touched. Which now I know they should have for a good tune. Also, my injector flow rate vs. kpa were higher in the dyno tune than stock. Why? I do not have bigger injectors. There were a couple more just cant think of them right now and I'm at work without my bin file right now. I started with the stock tune and got my IAC counts around 35 hot and reset the TB. So my idle is right on target. But then using the stock tune the car was running like crap and alot of surging and bucking below 2000 rpms. So i then used the dyno tune except just copied my idle tuning to it and the car ran alot better but still bucking and surging at low rpms. So I then found a bin file for a TSP 231 237 and used its VE table. THE CAR RUNS AWESOME, NO BUCKING SURGING (except letting of the gas sometimes) I can even start the car, kick on the a/c and drive within 1 min with no problems of stalling to where it would die with the dyno tune. So I am now at the point as mentioned above. I am using the dyno tune bin file with the 231/237 ve table. I do not have a WB02 but sure as hell would like to get one. I am a quick learner but am the type that likes to be pointed in the right direction. Also I can not get the STIT and LTIT dynamic airflow and that other idle stuff figured out. I have my idle at 850. I would be willing to send anyone my bin files if they wanna take a look and see what direction I should use.

Thanks
Dave

 

No offense. Just be patient. I think most guys here would agree, to start your tune you need to:

1) have your IFR table scaled appropriatly for your injectors. If you have stock injectors, leave this table alone.

2) get your idle tb settings right. This is where it all begins, so you want these things right first

3) ve table

4) fine tuning (spark, mixture, ve, what ever you want to tweak)

In regards to why a "pro" tuner would mess with your IFR table when you still have stock injectors, scaling the IFR table is the easy way to apply more fuel with out having to actually tune the car.

 

I really appreciate the opinion and advice! I am going to change the Injector flow rate back to stock settings. I just got home and looked and noticed that my Power Enrich Fuel Mutiplier vs RPM is different than stock also. Its changed to 1.250 all the way across.

Should I change it back also?

Dave

 

If you can limp the car along until you get a WB, then this document should make it real easy for you to dial in your VE

It's written for EFILive, but it shouldn't be to hard to relate it to HPT. You will also need the EIO cable for HPT to get your WB signal in.