Procedure I used to tune TC lockup and Shift Points with LS1-Edit
I got a couple questions about how I determined my shift points and TC lockup for my setup.
I hope this helps:
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Speed is a variable here (not RPMs), so your gear ratio and tire height would have to be the same for another person's table to act the same. Also, your HP and TQ would have to at least be in the same range, because that will affect WOT converter behavior very significantly.
If you have a tire height of 25.65 to 26.00 inches, a SY3500 converter and a 3.73 rear end, I've got some converter shift point and TCC lockup tables you might try.
If not, you should look for someone with your gearing, etc. Oherwise, you may as well adjust yours from your stock tables until it rides the way you like.
If you load someone elses tables and your setup is not similar, you wil be wondering, "what the heck was this person doing?" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Here goes:
First I went riding and cruised.
I noted where the car shifted.
Then I stopped, started again, and noted where I WISHED it would shift.
I wrote these down.
Also, I noted where the TC locks up. On mine, I noticed it locked up in 3rd, before the 3-4 shift, if I cruised softly enough.
I don't like that. I personally don't want lock-up until I get into 4th. With the SY3500, I found doing that, coupled with lowering the 1-2 shift, makes the car drive like there is less stall at cruise speeds.
I don't even try this next part by sight.. the tach is just too off and too inconsistent with different traction conditions... I use an autotap to check:
I note where autotap says I shift (The tranny gear reading AND the RPMs drop point. Also, there is a peaking of RPMs when it shifts before the next gear is really engaged, so it seems).
Depending on your cam profile and how quickly it revs (which is dang fast for me with a SY3500 and an ATI Procharger at 10 PSI) will determine how high you may rev. But then, you need track time to see where you need to shift for best ET.
Knowing your cruising shift points, modify them to what you found your WISH shift points are.
If you are like me, you'll RAISE the TC lockup speed for the lower TPS %-ages so that it shifts AFTER you get into 4th.
Raise your Rev Limit to at least 6600 RPMs... get it out of the way. When I got my SC, I raised it to 6800.
For your WOT runs, work only one gear at a time.
Raise your 1-2 shift by a couple MPH and see if your ET is better. The goal would be to get the lowest RPM shift point that gives you the quickest ET (fastest time with least work). The hard part about this is being consistent with your launches, of course. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
Do this for the 2-3 shift as well. I doubt you need to worry about the 3-4 shift if your gearing is right. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
I shoot for SOTP shift point first where I don't feel a dip in power at the shift, then work the ET checks from there.
I hope that helps. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I hope this helps:
----------------
Speed is a variable here (not RPMs), so your gear ratio and tire height would have to be the same for another person's table to act the same. Also, your HP and TQ would have to at least be in the same range, because that will affect WOT converter behavior very significantly.
If you have a tire height of 25.65 to 26.00 inches, a SY3500 converter and a 3.73 rear end, I've got some converter shift point and TCC lockup tables you might try.
If not, you should look for someone with your gearing, etc. Oherwise, you may as well adjust yours from your stock tables until it rides the way you like.
If you load someone elses tables and your setup is not similar, you wil be wondering, "what the heck was this person doing?" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Here goes:
First I went riding and cruised.
I noted where the car shifted.
Then I stopped, started again, and noted where I WISHED it would shift.
I wrote these down.
Also, I noted where the TC locks up. On mine, I noticed it locked up in 3rd, before the 3-4 shift, if I cruised softly enough.
I don't like that. I personally don't want lock-up until I get into 4th. With the SY3500, I found doing that, coupled with lowering the 1-2 shift, makes the car drive like there is less stall at cruise speeds.
I don't even try this next part by sight.. the tach is just too off and too inconsistent with different traction conditions... I use an autotap to check:
I note where autotap says I shift (The tranny gear reading AND the RPMs drop point. Also, there is a peaking of RPMs when it shifts before the next gear is really engaged, so it seems).
Depending on your cam profile and how quickly it revs (which is dang fast for me with a SY3500 and an ATI Procharger at 10 PSI) will determine how high you may rev. But then, you need track time to see where you need to shift for best ET.
Knowing your cruising shift points, modify them to what you found your WISH shift points are.
If you are like me, you'll RAISE the TC lockup speed for the lower TPS %-ages so that it shifts AFTER you get into 4th.
Raise your Rev Limit to at least 6600 RPMs... get it out of the way. When I got my SC, I raised it to 6800.
For your WOT runs, work only one gear at a time.
Raise your 1-2 shift by a couple MPH and see if your ET is better. The goal would be to get the lowest RPM shift point that gives you the quickest ET (fastest time with least work). The hard part about this is being consistent with your launches, of course. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
Do this for the 2-3 shift as well. I doubt you need to worry about the 3-4 shift if your gearing is right. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
I shoot for SOTP shift point first where I don't feel a dip in power at the shift, then work the ET checks from there.
I hope that helps. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />



