Ignition Timing advance at WOT
I did the IAT modification and that prevents the advance from being pulled back on a hot day. On the LT style small blocks, 38 to 40 degrees was the desired spark advance. You have to remember that the LS-1 is running 10.5 to 1 compression and even with 93 or 94 octane, GM has a very conservetive advance curve. LS1edit lets you undo this and put more advance in, which you may be able to use with a slightly richer mixture, but it is tuning that will decide how much the engine likes. Things like carbon build up in the cylinders from running an over rich mixture can set off slight detonations that cause the KR's to do their thing. You need to see what Atap says while tuning things in. Possibly you will find different settings for different times of the year, cold days vs very hot days.
BTW, it was about 80 deg. outside and very dry.
<small>[ July 05, 2002, 07:56 PM: Message edited by: WhynotSS ]</small>
<strong>Mine was at 40 deg. at WOT. Is that too high?
BTW, it was about 80 deg. outside and very dry.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I think 40 is to high, you'll probably see the best power with the timming set around 28-30 at WOT as long as the temp. is not to high and you have enough octane, so you don't get any KR.
<strong>Advance is good so long as the KR's are not crabbing and pulling things back. Running high test and depending upon the outside conditions, my advance is somewhere between 26 and 30 degrees.
I did the IAT modification and that prevents the advance from being pulled back on a hot day. On the LT style small blocks, 38 to 40 degrees was the desired spark advance. You have to remember that the LS-1 is running 10.5 to 1 compression and even with 93 or 94 octane, GM has a very conservetive advance curve. LS1edit lets you undo this and put more advance in, which you may be able to use with a slightly richer mixture, but it is tuning that will decide how much the engine likes. Things like carbon build up in the cylinders from running an over rich mixture can set off slight detonations that cause the KR's to do their thing. You need to see what Atap says while tuning things in. Possibly you will find different settings for different times of the year, cold days vs very hot days.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">FYI, the LS1 is 10.1:1 CR, not 10.5:1. Most LS1's like to overall timing somewhere in the 25-28 degree range whether it be total timing or net of knock retard.
Trending Topics
I am going to do some investigating with my motor, and when you go to O2 or Boost, I am sure you get an entirely different picture than for a NA engine. When I get some hard and fast numbers I will report to the group, unless someone else posts theirs first.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
<strong>When I had my car programmed by Ed Wright for my cam only tuning I was seeing 29 to 31 degrees at WOT with no KR using 93 octane. When I first put my high compression heads on I was still at 29 degrees and autotap never showed any KR. Now I am at 25.5 degrees secondary to Ed thinking that is too high for my compression. I would like to be atleast 28 degrees with my setup.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You did not mention what your engine compression is but my 372 stroker LS1 is 11.3:1 and even with the crappy Ca smog gas I have almost zero knock and no misfire and WOT timing is 28 degrees.
It was not that way when I was using the clunker powerloader PCM calibration, I cured it myself by using Ls1edit and doing the correct tuning, so I suggest you also do a true custom tune for the makeup of your engine/mods and where you live.
Comparatively, most of our cars (LS1's included) have 0 degrees of advance at idle.
Also, conditions, elevation, weight, etc, etc also factor in (providing you are not doing the IAT mod), mine here in Chicago on a perfect day likes around 28 degrees at WOT, whereas someone below sea level say like down in Houston, may like a little more timing.
At WOT throttle I was getting .4 degrees of KR primarily at the top of gears as I shift so it's not as if I was getting 2, 3, or 4 degree's of KR and scaling it back to 28 degree's.
I also at first had Ed Wrong's programming. After three attempts for him to get it right with numerous dyno sheets, autotap logs (from both Dyno and WOT throttle runs), I went elsewhere. With his programming at WOT throttle I was getting 6-8 degrees KR at WOT and in some cases more. At throttle tip in, he turned off my EGR (even though I told him I DIDN'T have the LS6 intake) which resulted in around 30-40 degrees of KR. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />



