Damn... all of us downloading appear to have crashed their server...

my FTP connection suddenly got dropped. Now the web site is down and the ftp is down

 

I found it here: http://www.autotap.com/software/Windows/

Excellent download speeds!

 

Well, its now posted on their site.... Every once in a while you can find different versions that they dont put up on the site. ie: V1 Windows ver 1.12, I downloaded that the other day, their site only shows ver 1.11........

 

Autotap Version 2 was supposed to be released today. It will work with existing autotap cables. The website doesn't currently have a link to the new version. For the impatient people such as myself, go to their ftp site @ ftp://www.autotap.com

There is a folder called "windows setup" in there, download the whole folder and its subdirectories. When finished, run the setup file. Total size for me came out to ~ 23 megs.

Going for a test drive now. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

Richard

 

At this point it looks like a waste of time.

It took me 5 times to get the completed file off their website, would stop before completing and forced to download 13.3 megs again.

I installed it 1st on a laptop with XP home Os and just running the one sample log keep getting overflow errors viia OS popup error box.

I then installed 2.0 on the same laptiop I have the 1.X junk which has win98.

With key on, cold engine I wanted to capture all 4 02s before 02 heaters to heat up 02s too much to be stuck for over 4 minutes with atap says it was geting 4,000 plus parameters.
Finally it was linked but by then 02s are heated and now cannot see true cold 02 tests :-(

I saved the config file from this car and turned key off, leaving atap running. I wait a few minutes to see the atap popup a lost connection box with a retry or exit program.
I turn key on again, hit retry and it fails, I do this 10 times and it fails to relink 10 times !
I am forced to exit out of atap, reload it again with key still on and it goes to connect but now even though the cionfig for this car was saved as the default confg, it still goes 4 minutes again to get 4,000 parameters.

Thus at this point is looks like this V2.0 is no better then the 1.X as to doing what EPA requires as to linking and auto relinking if link is lost.

I'll do further testing but I doubt as long as the old interface is used, it's a slug and I doubt new interface is any better.

 

i disagree, i used it last nite for the first time and it was a vast improvment, the only complaint i have is how long it has to load befor you get the initial conection, but other than that it better than 1.xx, just imo.

 

Grinch - Once you have a config file save for your vehicle, the load times improve dramatically. It's just the first time that the computer detects the vehicles parrameters that cause the initial slow load time.

John (Team ZR-1) - Since you use Ease and have ALREADY stated that EASE is superior in SEVERAL threads on SEVERAL UBB's, why are you even bothering wasting your time playing with an inferior product? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

 

Grinch - my laptop will go into suspend or hibernate. When I am done, I leave autotap open, and close the laptop. Next time I am ready, I fire it back up and autotap is waiting to connect without that initial 60 seconds of "checking...." time.

 

ok... this software SUX... it's really pissing me off

#1. I go to setup my own settings to log .... it says it lost communication, I hit retry, it can't reconnect... close out and start up it works

#2. I drove the car for 45 mins getting logs, found that I was running way to lean at part throttle (LTRIMS maxed)... well just now I'm lookinag at the logs and WOW

Apparently it picked up 313 degrees of Knock Retard at one point
Also it was picking up 13.8 degrees of Knock Retard while I was somehow idling at at under 100 RPM and my LTRIM was -100???? Also seems that at one point my transmission fluid was below zero...

oh and here's one record
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>
Throttle Position Angle(%) Ignition Timing Advance(Deg) Vehicle Speed(MPH) Engine Speed(RPM) Knock Retard(Deg) Engine Coolant Temperature(°F) Transmission Oil Temperature(°F)
52.5 4 63 48 9.2 14230 -22
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"></strong>
um.... right... I was going 63 MPH w/the engine going 48RPM with 9.2 degress of KR and only 4 degrees of timing and my engine was 14,230 degrees while my tranny was -22 degrees

#3. Every time I went to exit (after losing communication) it would say that the config file has change would you like to save... I hit yes, go to save, it gives me a nice lil error, then when I start atap back up it loads the default display and says the config file it was supposed to save was corrupt....

This software is buggier than their other software, guess i'm going back to the DOS version... the only version they still have in Beta testing (cause obviously this windoze crapware is still in alpha)

 

Team ZR1, get a download manager if your connection fails, its just starts off were it crashed. You never have to download a whole file again.

Nice write up noticed the same thing on the overflows. Tried to quit from the program and get overflows. Lots of beta testing on this product. At least it was slightly better looking than the previous version. Haha

Gary

 

Tried it last night on my dads bone stock C5, and my old hardware. Wouldn't stay connected for more than 30 secs or so. Had to switch back to the old dos version.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by PaiN:
<strong>Tried it last night on my dads bone stock C5, and my old hardware. Wouldn't stay connected for more than 30 secs or so. Had to switch back to the old dos version.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yea, I'm having that problem too.... Sometimes it will just disconnect, and when it does I have to exit the program (hitting retry to reconnect doesn't work, disconnecting cable and reconnecting doesn't work)

 

Dont have any problems with the old Dos and Old windows software right now. It Does everything that I need. Guess I wont be upgraded it right now. Has anybody tried it with the new cable yet?

<small>[ July 11, 2002, 10:05 AM: Message edited by: 9T9BlueTA ]</small>

 

Guys with disconnect issues. What is your laptop setup? Are you using an inverter between the laptop and the car or are you just using a laptop to car adapter cable?

The reason I ask is; I always us an inverter and never have these disconnect issues. The one time I tried a laptop to car cable on my laptop it worked on my car. HOWEVER, when I connected to MGreen's 98 LS1 Z, it would drop connections in the DOS version left and right. I went back to a power inverter and I don't drop connections in his car either anymore. Keep in mind, my laptop never shut off even when I didn't use the inverter, it would just disconnected.

Just curious as to what you guys are running for setup's to see if their is an issue with power regulation through the serial port or something????

 

horist,

We haven't been able to duplicate any connection problems. It is possible that its related to the USB adapter, I'm hesitant to blame that even though USB drivers do add another layer of complexity. We know it works well with the USB adapters in our own line, but don't have any reason to think there would be a problem with the Belkin.

Now that we have the other issues resolved (see the AutoTap V2 Remedy thread), please contact me directly if you have additional connection problems and we'll get to the bottom of it.

-Mike
www.AutoTap.com

 

well, my scenario with the disconnects may just be a hardware issue... my laptop is a 1Ghz laptop running windows xp. It didn't come with a serial port so I'm using a USB Serial port... so this may just be crappy drivers from belkin.

I doubt it's a power issue, I have a DC to AC inverter that I use while I'm atapping in my car