KR problem
2000 Firehawk M6
SLP Longtubes with cats
Hypertech (rev limiter at 6200)
Sunoco 94 in the tank
I am getting KR in strange places. Just driving slowly in 1st and 2nd gear about 2500 rpms I am seeing about 1-1.5 degrees of KR but then this goes away at about 3000 and only happens in the lower gears. And this is only driving slowly, if I go WOT from like 2000rpms i get no KR down low.
Then at WOT at about 4000rpms I get 1-1.5 degrees of KR and then at about 5000-5500 I am seeing 3-3.5 degrees of KR and this continues all the way on up to my rev limiter of 6200.
I do NOT have the hypertech tuning installed just the rev limiter has been raised slightly. This condition also only happens under load. If I just rev the car up to 6200 in neutral there is no KR.
Since the header install there is a lot of ticking noise from the passenger side header that I attribute to the single wall thinkness of the headers. I would think that this could cause false knock but wouldn't this happen if I was just reving the car as well as if I was really going?
And I also do not believe it to be the headers banging anything because when i wack the throttle real hard causing the motor to twist and possibly hit something I get no KR.
Sorry for the long post. I am stumped, any ideas? thanks guys
edit: Also is there a way to de-sensitize the knock sensor with a module or something or can I possibly do this with LS1 edit? Shouold I try some race gas and see if it goes away? however, there should be no need I should need race gas on a stock motor with stock programming.
<small>[ September 04, 2002, 10:22 PM: Message edited by: BlakCamZ28 ]</small>
As for your KR, the low PRM, high load is the most common but you certianly want to get rid of the WOT retard. First, visit www.installuniversity.com They've got a great article on ruling out false KR. Second, you want to investigate oil consumption through your PCV valve and carbon buildup. Again, search for PCV mods and decarb and you'll find the info you need on these areas.
Have faith - KR can be defeated! And yes, with LS1Edit, you can adjust KR parameters!
Mark
<small>[ September 05, 2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: Sparky ]</small>
<strong>Your ticking first. I'm assuming you have your AIR tubes still hooked up. What you are hearing is the AIR valves fluttering. I removed mine <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> but others have constructed aluminum "gaskets" with a reduced size that has eliminated the fluttering. Without this restriction, you will eventually burn your AIR valves. Search around or post this specific question to find someone who as done it. (Note, this is assuming that you've verified no exhaust leak at the manifold)</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">yes I have verified and there are no exhaust leaks. However, I have done the restrictor plate gaskets for the AIR. I did this a while ago when the headers were first installed and I had the ticking problem but it did not fix it.
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"><strong>
As for your KR, the low PRM, high load is the most common but you certianly want to get rid of the WOT retard. First, visit www.installuniversity.com They've got a great article on ruling out false KR. Second, you want to investigate oil consumption through your PCV valve and carbon buildup. Again, search for PCV mods and decarb and you'll find the info you need on these areas.
Have faith - KR can be defeated! And yes, with LS1Edit, you can adjust KR parameters!
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks I'll check that out.

