Ok, I know i need some dyno tuning.. but i'm really broke after the last 4 1/2 months on my car, So i can't do tuning for at least a couple weeks. My trouble is i need my car to drive, bike+rain=no good.

I am currently tuned for a B1 221/221 558/558 114 with stock heads and 3.23 gears also, stock MAF, MAC mid-length hdrs.

I now have stage II heads (2.02 1.56 ferrea valvels and the 98 heads have been milled 30 over) and a MMS 229/229 566/566 112 cam and 3.73 gears, GROT 1 7/8 LT's. The MAF is still stock, i recently drilled the TB out a little more for the cam.. it will now idle (kinda lopey, but will idle most of the time) and i also capped off the EGR and Intake and both the AIR tubes to the headers (not perfectly fit but doesn't seem to leak) i have not tried the spray cleaner in the engine bay and see if it sux up anywhere.

ok, on to the big issues... car will surge and sputter at very low throttle position.. not die.. but sputters really bad. at WOT it will plant ya in the seat and runs smooth. I autotapped it and i'm still getting ltrim lean code as well as low voltage on my s1b1 o2.

I seem to be frying o2's every time i start the damn thing..???
i had this problem last spring and had to take it to a dealer to run a level II scan to find the problem. this time i replaced them with the extentions for the Grots. but 2 days ago, i had another o2 code on autotap.. so i find that my driver side was burnt from the headers on the extention and the connecter. I replaced the o2 and the extention.. and now i'm still getting a code set.?? arrrggghghhhh.

I'm getting real close from saying screw it and just tub the damn thing and scrap all of the electronics and put a BBC in her.


any ideas, anything i can 'TUNE' without ls1edit or taking it to a shop?? as i really need to drive my car and it's not wanting to cooperate. I also don't want to be driving it if i'm damaging something.

I must say though for running so crappy, at WOT on 360 sat morning i put an easy 10 cars on a GT upto 130 or so
not too bad for an un-tuned auto with a big stall.. I really can't wait to see what she will do after it's tuned.

sorry for the novel.. but need a little help. I have done almost all the work on my car myself.. and am getting frustrated knowing i can't do much else to make it run right.

any idea/help would be much appreciated.

thanks
Devin.

**disclaimer**
running a car upto 130 on a public road = bad. i must have confused playing gt3 with reality or something

 

It sounds like you have a wiring gremline with your O2 wiring. Your best bet may be the shot-gun strategy and just replace all O2 wire associated with the damaged wire.

The crappy idle sounds about right with your 229.

The lean code is something to be concerned about. If you are going to be driving your car, then you need to make sure that the code is false....ie you have an exhaust leak or bad O2. Otherwise, driving your car around exceptionally lean MAY damage something.

What are your LTerms? Is the lean code isolated to one bank. If it is isolated to one bank, then you may want to start looking for an exhaust leak.

 

did you open the throttle blade a little??

 

i'll autotap on the way home and get some ltrims. It is isolated to one bank though... probably a combo of the o2 and prolly leaking at the cap off on the drivers side AIR.

I have drilled the TB hole out some.. that was the only way to get it to idle at all.

Let me ask this question, do you need to plug the rubber hose that the AIR tubes went in?? i was told the only reason to have them on there was if your running cats'. I didn't plug them or anything??

Yes, i def. have a gremlin in the wiring somewhere.. this is the 3rd o2 i have burnt?? and 2nd o2 extender (the grots get real warm) i think i finally have them where there not gonna come down and touch anymore.

 

If this is the 3rd O2 that you have burnt, and you are setting a lean code on one bank, you are very likely suffering from an exhaust leak.

Look for a crack, opening, or hole around the O2 sensor.

Good Luck,
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