Looking into getting me an 02 wideband.
#1
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Looking into getting me an 02 wideband.
I was serously cosidering this one.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=149
Anybody has any comments/opinions on this one or recommend me another. I looking into spending $300-400 for one.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=149
Anybody has any comments/opinions on this one or recommend me another. I looking into spending $300-400 for one.
#2
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I am going to be needing one also but I dont want to spend $300-$400 just to see my AF in real time. It seems like this should be able to be done for alot less. I am investigating.
From what I have read, this LC-1 can also be configured to work as a narrow band so that it will replace the stock O2 sensors and give the PCM the info that it needs as well as give you the live AF reading. That is unless I read it wrong (it wouldn't be the first time).
From what I have read, this LC-1 can also be configured to work as a narrow band so that it will replace the stock O2 sensors and give the PCM the info that it needs as well as give you the live AF reading. That is unless I read it wrong (it wouldn't be the first time).
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
From what I have read, this LC-1 can also be configured to work as a narrow band so that it will replace the stock O2 sensors and give the PCM the info that it needs as well as give you the live AF reading. That is unless I read it wrong (it wouldn't be the first time).
There are some build it yourself wideband kits out there. The dynotune LC1 kit tiburon linked to has a gauge/display, you can buy it w/out the display for $199, and just log/read it on your laptop.
#4
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the LM1 is a nice unit... I got one when they first released them... I just got an LC-1 last week also to give a try... (LC1 is only 200, but no LED display)
You can't go wrong with either (so long as you have a tuning suite with inputs)
You can't go wrong with either (so long as you have a tuning suite with inputs)
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Is this the one you are talking about. http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=169
This is exactly what I was looking for as I don't care for the guage. Will this work alone with the software that is included or would I need the enhanced version of HP Tuners?
This is exactly what I was looking for as I don't care for the guage. Will this work alone with the software that is included or would I need the enhanced version of HP Tuners?
Originally Posted by horist
the LM1 is a nice unit... I got one when they first released them... I just got an LC-1 last week also to give a try... (LC1 is only 200, but no LED display)
You can't go wrong with either (so long as you have a tuning suite with inputs)
You can't go wrong with either (so long as you have a tuning suite with inputs)
#6
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it will work seperate so long as you have a laptop to hookup their logworks software.
However, it is a good idea to have the enhanced version of HPT because it lets you log the AFR WITH the rest of the cars data... otherwise logging just AFR w/out knowing the RPM, MAP, etc... makes it hard to use the data (not impossible but much more difficult)
They sell other items that let you log RPM and other sensors (not sure if it'd work w/the LC1 though) but you have to start tapping into wires, and by the time you add up the time and cost of doing it (and the parts you need from innovate) , you could have upgraded to the EIO version
However, it is a good idea to have the enhanced version of HPT because it lets you log the AFR WITH the rest of the cars data... otherwise logging just AFR w/out knowing the RPM, MAP, etc... makes it hard to use the data (not impossible but much more difficult)
They sell other items that let you log RPM and other sensors (not sure if it'd work w/the LC1 though) but you have to start tapping into wires, and by the time you add up the time and cost of doing it (and the parts you need from innovate) , you could have upgraded to the EIO version
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Originally Posted by hondo
You are correct, it can give the pcm a narrowband reading and let you read/log the afr in wideband.
There are some build it yourself wideband kits out there. The dynotune LC1 kit tiburon linked to has a gauge/display, you can buy it w/out the display for $199, and just log/read it on your laptop.
There are some build it yourself wideband kits out there. The dynotune LC1 kit tiburon linked to has a gauge/display, you can buy it w/out the display for $199, and just log/read it on your laptop.
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I have been very happy with the DYNOJET WIDEBAND. Woks great with alot of nice features, IE recording-logging, programmable warning light, controlled switched outputs for other uses. It actualy uses a AUTOMETER PHANTOM Gauge if you have that style.
http://www.hardracing.com/Misc/WideBand.htm
Last dyno tune installed dynos o2 in a spare bung next to the widedands o2. The 2 were wright on with each other throught out the runs and tune. So I can say it works very well!
http://www.hardracing.com/Misc/WideBand.htm
Last dyno tune installed dynos o2 in a spare bung next to the widedands o2. The 2 were wright on with each other throught out the runs and tune. So I can say it works very well!
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Originally Posted by DaddySS
Can you get the LC-1 for the autometer gauge, hook it up to an autometer guage and have the analog signals for HP tuners or flashscan?
Dean
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Originally Posted by 618HAWK
Why if you dont mind me asking........
The Innovate products are the best on the market. But let me tell you why not just saying it.
The biggest difference is actually the (pat. pend.) measurement principle of the LM-1/LC-1. Different from all other widebands it does NOT use the pump current as AFR indication. Instead it uses the sensor to form with the LM-1/LC-1 circuit what's called a delta-sigma analog to digital converter. The difference is that the analog signal in this case is not a voltage or current, but directly the exhaust gas composition. This allows it to:
A: react extremely fast with no settling or overswing
B: be independent of electronic parts tolerances and drifts
C: compensate for sensor drift due to aging every time you do a free air calibration.
D: calibrate for the actual sensor characteristic independent of the factory calibration resistor, which is only correct when the sensor is new.
E: is much less susceptible to exhaust back pressure.
Another advantage of that measurement principle is automatic compensation for 'rich gas loading'. This is an effect most WB manufacturers do not compensate for or even know of. When a WB sensor is operating in a rich gas for a prolonged time (minutes), it's cells 'load up' and slowly drift, requiring more and more pump current. This will indicate richer and richer than it actually is. If the ECU is WB controlled in closed loop, the engine would actually run leaner and leaner to compensate.
The LM-1's/LC-1's measurement principle is not susceptible to that.
Dean
#15
would using the LC1 w/ autometer gauge be a less desirable way to go?...would i be loosing out on anything? I plan on getting Autometer boost and fuel psi gauges, and want everything to look the same. (I realize the same dynotune company makes those gauges too, but i dont have $318+ to drop down for a boost and fuel psi) i figured the autometer would work well enough for me on those. this is just a daily driver i want to keep tabs on, not a professional race car. I definatley want to make sure on the AFR though....