tach goes out...then SES
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tach goes out...then SES Guys, I was driving around today, and all of a sudden my stock tach just stopped working. All of the other gauges were fine. Shortly after, I shut the car off, and when I tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. I sat there for a minute, tried again, and it started right up, but with a SES code. I thought I saved the code, but apprently not...but it was a cam position sensor code.
I have under 1k miles on the new motor, and I thought I heard somewhere about a "cam re-learn" process. Is this something that I need to do? And, are these 2 things related? Does the tach pull it's signal from the cam sensor?
I have under 1k miles on the new motor, and I thought I heard somewhere about a "cam re-learn" process. Is this something that I need to do? And, are these 2 things related? Does the tach pull it's signal from the cam sensor?
A beer says your cam bolts loosened up, allowing your cam to walk backwards, making the cam reluctor in the last journal out of line with the cam position sensor, setting cam pos sensor - high signal error.
And yes, the tach pulls its signal from the cam sensor, although the PCM will still read from the crank.
And yes, the tach pulls its signal from the cam sensor, although the PCM will still read from the crank.
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also if you've recently had the PCM tuned... may need a CASE learn (I had swapped PCMs in my own car late last year... afterwards tach wasn't working or would react really slow, car would be hard to crank, and cam code was set... did a CASE learn and all was fine)
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
A beer says your cam bolts loosened up, allowing your cam to walk backwards, making the cam reluctor in the last journal out of line with the cam position sensor, setting cam pos sensor - high signal error.
And yes, the tach pulls its signal from the cam sensor, although the PCM will still read from the crank.
And yes, the tach pulls its signal from the cam sensor, although the PCM will still read from the crank.
Thanks guys for the replies!
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Originally Posted by horist
also if you've recently had the PCM tuned... may need a CASE learn (I had swapped PCMs in my own car late last year... afterwards tach wasn't working or would react really slow, car would be hard to crank, and cam code was set... did a CASE learn and all was fine)
Dave
Originally Posted by NYSS Guy
Well this doesn't sound good at all! Although it was a low voltage signal error. So, is it just possible that the sensor went bad?? Where is this sensor anyway?
Thanks guys for the replies!
Thanks guys for the replies!
Where can I paypal that beer to?
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Don't worry about it....I left out some important details in my first post! I have a feeling the sensor just went bad. I've driven the car around for a while, I can't imagine the wires getting messed up all of a sudden like that. I just don't remember that sensor. When I was swapping everything over, was it the one that kind of sticks down in a hole from the top? LS1 Tech Stories
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cam signal allows car to know which exact cylinder should be firing and fires it only in non-wasted spark ignition ala LSx. with just a crank sensor theres two possible cylinders that could be firing and results in a wasted spark setup with both possibles being fired at the same time. One in the power and one in exhaust stroke. ohh well thats all just some extra stuff for ya.
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From: Lake Zurich, IL
Originally Posted by NYSS Guy
Horist, I'm doing the tuning myself with HP Tuners. But, this CASE learn is what I had to do last year when I got a mailorder tune. Do you only have to do that when you replace the pcm, or with a cam swap too? And, can I do it in HPT?
Dave
Dave
Download the latest version of HP Tuners (2.1.6) and you can do a CASE learn with it
If you get a mailorder w/your own PCM and aren't changing to a different OS then you wouldn't need a CASE Learn
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Thanks guys for the help. Horist, I'm still using the same pcm that has been in the car for over a year. BUT, I just switched to a 2 bar speed density operating system. Is that what you mean by changing the OS?
I pulled the intake in the meantime, and got the sensor out. The wires looked fine, so I'm gonna get a new sensor tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.
I pulled the intake in the meantime, and got the sensor out. The wires looked fine, so I'm gonna get a new sensor tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.
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From: Pembroke,GA
I have the same issue right now..I changed the crankshaft position sensor twice then I pulled the cam open to tighten it up..still having the same issue with out the car throwing a code though before hand it would through codes..someone said somehting about the tach sending unit..although I havent done a realearn yet since I tighten the cam..maybe that my next step...did you resoelve your issue? if so what did you do?
Would one be able to disconnect either the cam or crank sensor to see if they are bad? Will the car run with out one or the other???? I am having the same issues. Got a new crank sensor here with me to put in after work. Hope its the fix.
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From: Pembroke,GA
dude have your battery tested first if its below 13.8 replace the battery and see what happends first..I replaced my crank sensor twice had it relearned then pulled the crap off to get to my cam tightned it and all along appearantly it was the battery charge being low..just a thought