LC-1 Install Questions
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From: San Diego, CA
LC-1 Install Questions Just a few questions for the guys who have done it. I installed my LC-1 and when I go to do the initail free air / heater calibration the led just keeps blinking (indicating the sensor is still heating up). The problem is it never stops. The sensor is hot so it is getting power. Also, its blinking a constant rate so (meaning not giving an error message)
I'm going to be using this with HP Tuners so I have the wideband analog output (brown wire) connected to the EIO along with the analog ground (green wire). My question here is, do you have to have the laptop and HP Tuners up and running to do the calibrations? Right now I don't and the EIO is not plugged into the HP Tuners box. Does it need to be?
Thanks for anyone's help!
I'm going to be using this with HP Tuners so I have the wideband analog output (brown wire) connected to the EIO along with the analog ground (green wire). My question here is, do you have to have the laptop and HP Tuners up and running to do the calibrations? Right now I don't and the EIO is not plugged into the HP Tuners box. Does it need to be?
Thanks for anyone's help!
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
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First of all no, the LC1 along with the meter are stand alone. You do not need the EIO; computer.
I can't remember what the flashes mean.
Things to check though:
Make sure you have the terminator plug plugged in. The LC1 won't work without it.
Have you followed the steps for a free air calibration?
Here is a link to the pdf manual of the LC1:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Manual_1.5.pdf
Also you may get more help here:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...splay.php?f=10
I can't remember what the flashes mean.
Things to check though:
Make sure you have the terminator plug plugged in. The LC1 won't work without it.
Have you followed the steps for a free air calibration?
Here is a link to the pdf manual of the LC1:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Manual_1.5.pdf
Also you may get more help here:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...splay.php?f=10
Originally Posted by givittua
Make sure you have the terminator plug plugged in. The LC1 won't work without it.
If you are getting steady flash (which has happened to me every now and again) first try shutting off the car and restarting. If that doens't work, unplug the O2 from the LC-1 and go through the heater calibration procedure...
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
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Originally Posted by muncie21
The terminator is for serail communication only. LC-1 will work fine, as long as you are using analog outputs and not serail communication, with it gone.
If you are getting steady flash (which has happened to me every now and again) first try shutting off the car and restarting. If that doens't work, unplug the O2 from the LC-1 and go through the heater calibration procedure...
If you are getting steady flash (which has happened to me every now and again) first try shutting off the car and restarting. If that doens't work, unplug the O2 from the LC-1 and go through the heater calibration procedure...
If he is using a meter, isn't that serial? The way I answered his question doesn't he need the terminator plugged in?
P.S. You are right, too.
Originally Posted by givittua
If he is using a meter, isn't that serial? The way I answered his question doesn't he need the terminator plugged in?
P.S. You are right, too.
P.S. You are right, too.
If the serial is being used (for example to verify the HPT analog output) then you are exactly correct, the terminator needs to be connected.
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Ok, I installed the LC-1 Software and booted it up. It showed the warmup % and it wouldn't go over about 42% meaning the heater / sensor isn't getting hot enough. I also saw an intermittent error #9 (supply voltage too low). I'm assuming my 12v supply needs to be redone.
Where's everyone pulling their switched 12v from? Currently I'm running it from the interior fused box shared with a BMN window switch for my nitrous. Seems hard to believe the draw would be too much, but I guess it is...
Where's everyone pulling their switched 12v from? Currently I'm running it from the interior fused box shared with a BMN window switch for my nitrous. Seems hard to believe the draw would be too much, but I guess it is...
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Sunny London, UK
I pull mine from the stock o2 header 12v, works fine.
A recal will just make the led go blank for like 2sec then it will go back to on or blinking.
You need to do a power cycle once its done its recal, leave it off for a few seconds, then power back on. But you should only recal when its showing steady, (ie) hot and led on.
A recal will just make the led go blank for like 2sec then it will go back to on or blinking.
You need to do a power cycle once its done its recal, leave it off for a few seconds, then power back on. But you should only recal when its showing steady, (ie) hot and led on.
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: So.Cal.
If you have a multimeter, measure the voltage across the red and blue wires of the LC-1, see that you get better then 12V.
Measure the voltages bewteen the blue wire and the battery negative terminal, and between the red wire and the battery positive terminal, see that you get very close to zero in both cases...?
Measure the voltages bewteen the blue wire and the battery negative terminal, and between the red wire and the battery positive terminal, see that you get very close to zero in both cases...?
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Princeton, IN
there is a hot 6 or 8 ga wire under the drivers side dash "it's red". run a relay off that to the sensor heater. relay from the fuse box inside the car. something that is off when you have the key pulled back "radio mode?" and on when in run.
Originally Posted by ringram
I pull mine from the stock o2 header 12v, works fine.
A recal will just make the led go blank for like 2sec then it will go back to on or blinking.
You need to do a power cycle once its done its recal, leave it off for a few seconds, then power back on. But you should only recal when its showing steady, (ie) hot and led on.
A recal will just make the led go blank for like 2sec then it will go back to on or blinking.
You need to do a power cycle once its done its recal, leave it off for a few seconds, then power back on. But you should only recal when its showing steady, (ie) hot and led on.
What color is the stock 02 header 12v that you used or which pin is it?
On the C5 (flat plug) the wire is brown. Of course, on mine there were 3 brown wires, and a purple. 
If I remember correctly pins A&B were NBO2 signal and CD were power. Going out on a limb here, I think D is+12 and C is ground, but I could have them reversed.
If I remember correctly pins A&B were NBO2 signal and CD were power. Going out on a limb here, I think D is+12 and C is ground, but I could have them reversed. 
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From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by dissonance
there is a hot 6 or 8 ga wire under the drivers side dash "it's red". run a relay off that to the sensor heater. relay from the fuse box inside the car. something that is off when you have the key pulled back "radio mode?" and on when in run.
Originally Posted by LoWeLL216
Are you just using a tap to share the hot wire? You'll have to excuse my limited knowlege base on electronics...
Originally Posted by LoWeLL216
Just a few questions for the guys who have done it. I installed my LC-1 and when I go to do the initail free air / heater calibration the led just keeps blinking (indicating the sensor is still heating up). The problem is it never stops. The sensor is hot so it is getting power. Also, its blinking a constant rate so (meaning not giving an error message)
I'm going to be using this with HP Tuners so I have the wideband analog output (brown wire) connected to the EIO along with the analog ground (green wire). My question here is, do you have to have the laptop and HP Tuners up and running to do the calibrations? Right now I don't and the EIO is not plugged into the HP Tuners box. Does it need to be?
Thanks for anyone's help!
I'm going to be using this with HP Tuners so I have the wideband analog output (brown wire) connected to the EIO along with the analog ground (green wire). My question here is, do you have to have the laptop and HP Tuners up and running to do the calibrations? Right now I don't and the EIO is not plugged into the HP Tuners box. Does it need to be?
Thanks for anyone's help!
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: So.Cal.
To calibrate the LC-1, you need to momentarily connect the black wire to the white wire while the LC-1 is [sufficiently] powered; that is all that is required, very simple;
you should wire up the LC-1 so you can do this without relying on the logging interface ground or the ALDL ground (or any other real ground).
you should wire up the LC-1 so you can do this without relying on the logging interface ground or the ALDL ground (or any other real ground).
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Originally Posted by Doc
Your tuners module needs to be plugged in to complete the ground path via the vpw connector (the one under the dash that goes btw the HPT and the car).
You only have to have the Tuners interface plugged in if you are using the vpw connector for your signal ground. If you have your signal ground independantly connected then your'e ok. It just sounded like this might have been how you had it hooked up. Did you try it? What happened?
