Stall Tuning
06-09-2006, 03:25 PM
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Not really. The only thing I like to do for cars with a converter is - in the lock up tables for 3rd and 4th, I set the first two cells (0% & 6%) to 256. This keeps the car from trying to lock up when coasting to help prevent the car from jerking from idle rpms to cruise rpms.
06-12-2006, 01:18 AM
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Yes, in most cases you will get false misfires and if your running air flow is off, you can and most likely will have problems with hunting for idle.
Last edited by jdaniels; 06-12-2006 at 11:30 AM.
06-12-2006, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jdaniels
Yes, in most cases you will get false misfires and if your running air flow is off, you can and most likely will get have problems with hunting for idle.
06-12-2006, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1BlackBird99
I don't understand what you are talking about airflow. Why would I have misfires and idle problems from a stall?
Might need to do some tuning to optimize for shift points, but the car should run fine without a tune, but you'll get a little more out of the car with one.
06-12-2006, 11:29 AM
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Exactly, the idle stabilizing properties of the heavier stock converter can mask some idle air flow problems that you may already have... in my case, I had to idle tune all over again due to idle hunting after the install.
Oh, and when your car is sensing misfires the converter won't lock... I found that to be a problem, even with my 3000 stall. It's easy to tune out, though.
Oh, and when your car is sensing misfires the converter won't lock... I found that to be a problem, even with my 3000 stall. It's easy to tune out, though.