? on KR and timing
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? on KR and timing I posted a while back that I thought I was experiencing false knock and wanted to learn the process to reduce the sensitivity of the sensors. Well, as per some of your suggestions I pulled the timing to around 16* in the cells affected (was at 18*) and filled up with about 8.3 gallons of 100 octane unleaded mixed with 93 and 2 bottles of octane booster. No more knock. I guess it wasn't false after all! Thanks guys for not letting me do something that may have cost me dearly in the end! 
Now my question is; Is 16* of timing too low for an LS6? It seems like I should be able to run a bit more timing than that. The only changes I made to an out of the box LS6 long block are MAC mids and catted Y with some minor computer fiddling.
Now my question is; Is 16* of timing too low for an LS6? It seems like I should be able to run a bit more timing than that. The only changes I made to an out of the box LS6 long block are MAC mids and catted Y with some minor computer fiddling. 
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I dont ahve an ls6 but my ls1 has about the same amount of timing in it it seems low but thats what it takes for it to not detonate. Glad you did things the right way and didnt just turn the knock sensors off thats how **** goes boom. 
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I know the "boom" thing very well. Sometimes I jump in and do stupid **** that costs me in the end. I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks, I'm learning! Then again, in the past there were no websites like this where you could draw on other peoples experiences and apply it to your own application. Kudos to all!
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From: Fat Chance Hotel
Originally Posted by fast01
...I pulled the timing to around 16* in the cells affected (was at 18*) ... Now my question is; Is 16* of timing too low for an LS6?
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The KR is from around 4400 RPM right up to 6000 in the 90-100kpa rows (?).
It's a factory 2003 LS6 long block (405 hp), 10.5:1 compression I think. I thought that was kinda low too. Any suggestions? I don't have any logs right now and if I did I'm a computer moron and wouldn't know how to post them anyway! Lol!
It's a factory 2003 LS6 long block (405 hp), 10.5:1 compression I think. I thought that was kinda low too. Any suggestions? I don't have any logs right now and if I did I'm a computer moron and wouldn't know how to post them anyway! Lol!
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Yeah, that's what I meant. I'm on a work computer and don't have the tables in front of me. Any suggestions as to why I need to go so low? I haven't been to the track yet this year, so I don't know if my times are being affected yet.
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Oops! Never updated my sig. I put the stock MAF sensor back on, but I'm currently running SD (MAF fail set to 0). It seems that the car is actually running a bit rich. I don't have a wideband, but the readings on the stock 02's are in the 900-920mV range. That and the black tail pipes lead me to that conclusion. I recently ran some Seafoam through to see if it was maybe carbon build up. No luck there! I'm stumped.
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Anone have any idea why I'd have to bring the timing back that much? I'm at a total loss. I'll be swapping throttle bodies this week, I'll check for oil in the manifold, but I've got the updated PCV tht's not supposed to have that problem.
Originally Posted by fast01
What the heck, I'll give it a try. I don't think I should have to run super high octane to prevent knock with only 10.5:1 compression though.
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From: Fat Chance Hotel
Originally Posted by fast01
Oops! Never updated my sig. I put the stock MAF sensor back on, but I'm currently running SD (MAF fail set to 0). It seems that the car is actually running a bit rich. I don't have a wideband, but the readings on the stock 02's are in the 900-920mV range. That and the black tail pipes lead me to that conclusion. I recently ran some Seafoam through to see if it was maybe carbon build up. No luck there! I'm stumped.
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From: Farmingville, New York
I'm pretty sure closed loop, but I'm not entirely sure how to be tell. I know it's a newbie question, but I never claimed to be anything but; How can I tell?
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From: Fat Chance Hotel
The quickest way to tell, if you're using something like HPT or EFI live, is to monitor the fuel system state. That will specifically tell you OL or CL. There are settings for when the car will enter CL, but I don't know the code number off hand. It looks something like this, "Closed Loop Temp Enable."
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From: Farmingville, New York
Thanks! I'll check that on HP Tuners. Do you think that will make a difference? Do you think the fact that I have LTFT's disabled will make a difference?
