LS1edit -> HP tuners -> LS1edit tuning confirmation needed!
I've been researching HPTuners.com and this site and have learned that I should have no problem reading/editing/re-flashing even though my car has already been tuned with LS1edit (HPE). I went outside earlier and read my PCM, saved the file (.hpt), unplugged, and came back inside, no problems.
I'm ready to tweak on it some and begin learning how to do this stuff but I do have some concerns.
Here's my question. If I mess around with my current LS1edit tune, then later go back to HPE for a full re-tune (new motor), will he be able to read the HPtuners tuned file and edit that?
I don't want to make some changes, then Chuck not be able to do anything to tune for the new setup.

Both mine and my friends cars have been tuned by LS1edit already.
I have saved the file unaltered from when Chuck tuned it, and I plan on re-loading it if I FUBAR mine.

Anyone have a link to common HP Tuners acronyms? WTF is VSS (etc. lol)? I can usually figure out most of them, but some have me lost. Putting my pointer over the boxes and reading the description is useless for me if it's 75% acronyms that I don't understand!
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when you read it with a 3rd party editor or some kind, that editor/program puts it into a language that it wants..
kind of like a translator for 2 people speaking 2 different languages...
so on your PC its in HPT or LS1edit language depending on the file you use and program you use...
once it is written to the PCM its back in GM PCM language..
if you read the tune that is in there with HPT..its still all the correct info when you write it back..
as long as you dont put in a custom Operating system...like a 1 bar SD...then the PCM still has the original GM OS in there....
all you are dong is editing the parameters that fill various tables in that OS...
and the original tuner will be able toread and write if necessary....even if you dont put back in teh data from his tune, he will still be able to read and write to he pcm ..again..as long as the GM OS stays in there and its not locked
Under WOT, I'm only running like 20* of spark advance. High octane table says 27*, low octane is around 20*, so this leads me to believe it might be running on the low octane tables. I'm running 93 in it.
Also, my LTFT's are shooting up to like 7-8 (all positive) during the time when I was in the throttle. From what I've gathered, you want these to be always + or -5? Any insight?
If I upload the log file, can you guys take a look at it and see if you notice anything that a n3wb like myself does not?
Any hunches on why the O2's are reading so differently? It does it pretty bad when it's just sitting there idling too.
PS - Thanks for taking the time to check it out guys, this support has really boosted my confidence with this stuff.
you might wanna check on that ECT guage, it's an important one to have working right. check the sensor too.
why did you change the fan to come up at 158? that's way low, there's been a recent thread that shows you the correct enable numbers for lower temp thermostats.
you might wanna check on that ECT guage, it's an important one to have working right. check the sensor too.
why did you change the fan to come up at 158? that's way low, there's been a recent thread that shows you the correct enable numbers for lower temp thermostats.
the F-body ECT gauges all work that way...they are a dummy from about 180*ish up till about 240*ish...then they jump suddenly....its kind of funny to watch it get to 210...get stuck there and then suddenly jump up almost into the red when it makes it to that point..LOL
its correct...nothing to worry about...
the only fix is to go and get an aftermarket gauge and mount it somewhere
I've always read that the '98 guages were supossed to be more accurate and not be dummies like the other years.
I can't complain about the way the car is running at all, it drives fine, idles/starts up great, and seems to make good power (117mph traps with full weight with 115k miles).
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