Large Cam tuning-Idle problem Help!!
Large Cam tuning-Idle problem Help!! I just installed a 232/236 595/601 112+2 XE-R(Comp) with Patriot Dual Springs. We are having difficulties trying to get it to idle at all. I drilled the hole in the trottle body to 1/4 inch. ?????????-what changes need to be made with HPT to get the car to idle. I am posting this for my friend who has HPT. Please tell me all the changes that need to be made. Idle air flow TPS voltage and such. Please help me get this car idling. I need to get the car idled good enough to drive about three hours to have it Dyno tuned. Thanks
The first thing that you need to do is turn up the desired idle to about 950-1000 RPM so that you can get started. The next thing is to get enough air in the engine to get it to stay running. If it doesn't run after drilling, then you need to either drill the hole bigger or turn the throttle screw to open the blade enough so that it will idle even if it's rough. If you turn the idle screw, make sure to disconnect the TPS, start the car, turn it off, reconnect the TPS and turn it back on. This should zero out the TPS at whatever position that you have it set too. Next, you need to log STIT+LTIT from a cold start all the way up to 190-200 degress. Whatever values you get at those temps are the changes that you need to make to your Idle desired airflow table. Once you get it to idle smoothly, then you can start trying to lower the idle. Also, you want to log the IAC and keep it between 30-60. If it is too high, you have to close the idle screw and repeat the reset procedure. Also, you will probably want to give it like 4 to 5 degrees more timing in the idle timing tables.
Originally Posted by bluehawk2
I just installed a 232/236 595/601 112+2 XE-R(Comp) with Patriot Dual Springs. We are having difficulties trying to get it to idle at all. I drilled the hole in the trottle body to 1/4 inch. ?????????-what changes need to be made with HPT to get the car to idle. I am posting this for my friend who has HPT. Please tell me all the changes that need to be made. Idle air flow TPS voltage and such. Please help me get this car idling. I need to get the car idled good enough to drive about three hours to have it Dyno tuned. Thanks
Set base spark, low octane and high octane at idle cells to 28*
Set overspeed/underspeed to -10/+10
Go into the VE Table, at the 1400rpm column (every cell going vertical below 1400) multiply by 80%, then next column to the left x by 70%, next to the left x by 65% and next to the left x by 55%.
Too late now, but drilling a 1/4" hole is not so good, its better to start a second small hole and go from there. FWIW I had 1/4" hole in my Blade, and still flipped the blade set screw and opened the blade slightly, then reset the TPS, my cam was 231/242 .637/.622 @ 114*, a little larger. That should get your car running good enough to get to the shop for tuning. Hopefully whoever is tuning it will take the time to log and adjust the RAF's, the VE, Idle, and not just "tune" the WOT. Too many shops only tweak the WOT parameters and leave the rest to the customer. GL
Charlie
Thanks everyone. I am trying to get lined up to get the car tuned by a guy in Eastern Alabama. I forget the person's name,but my friend says that everyone on here thinks he is very good.
I was told after I drilled the blade that it is not such a great thing to do, however, I need to get another stock throttle body and do a better porting job on it.
Originally Posted by bluehawk2
I was told after I drilled the blade that it is not such a great thing to do, however, I need to get another stock throttle body and do a better porting job on it.
My car had a drilled one on it when I got it, everytime I stopped the idle would hang for like 10 seconds then go down. New TB w/ no hole drilled, retuned it and its perfect.
Porting the TB is worthless, if your not making the hole in the middle (blade) bigger than your increasing any airflow at all. Your thinking porting it will funnel the air in better? No, the air isnt being poured in, its being drawn through.
