Is there a write up for using stock gauges w/ BS3?
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On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 184
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From: FS Arkansas
Is there a write up for using stock gauges w/ BS3? Im looking for a wiring diagram or a detailed write-up for keeping the stock guages w/ BS3. I have tried the search many times but it keeps timing-out. Any helps, leads, links or otherwise will be great. Thanks
What year/make are you trying to get them to work in?
Many will work if you switch to a 98 dash if your talking about a camaro.
1998 dash would be as follows,
Fuel sender sig is from tank, You would have to wire that to the pin that goes to tank sig in cluster,
Tach signal would be from the unit, set to put out a 4cly pulse and have ls1 modification box for the signal change,
Speedo would be from stock computer just turned on and still connected to the trans.
oil pressure will work with stock pressure sensor.
Collant temp will work with a 98 ls1 3 wire sensor. that 3rd wire would need ran to the cluster.
The rest should work fine.
The ABS light that shows up just needs to have the abs output from the cluster hooked up to a ground wire when key on. Then that light will shut down.
Many will work if you switch to a 98 dash if your talking about a camaro.
1998 dash would be as follows,
Fuel sender sig is from tank, You would have to wire that to the pin that goes to tank sig in cluster,
Tach signal would be from the unit, set to put out a 4cly pulse and have ls1 modification box for the signal change,
Speedo would be from stock computer just turned on and still connected to the trans.
oil pressure will work with stock pressure sensor.
Collant temp will work with a 98 ls1 3 wire sensor. that 3rd wire would need ran to the cluster.
The rest should work fine.
The ABS light that shows up just needs to have the abs output from the cluster hooked up to a ground wire when key on. Then that light will shut down.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 131
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From: tampa fl.
I don't know how fast u are doing this but I have to pull heads and some other stuff before I start the big stuff I've called almost everyone I know that has done this - I tried w2w and spoke to someone that said (your only looking for info i'll call u back ) it's been two weeks. I bought it used, so no one will help. Maybe we can get the info and post it for others
Here's what I know after contacting Mighty Mouse on the board. He says to wire the harness, subtract whats not being used and piggyback the factory computer crank sensor wire pin B to pin B on BS3. It seems to easy - As a test I unplugged the cam sensor and everything still worked. You have to add a coolant temp sensor to the pass. side head for BS3 - leave the factory one hooked up as is. Oil pressure is good - it doesn't goes through the ecm.
This is not 100% because I haven't tried it yet, but I will definitely post step-by-step when it is. In the meantime, if you find anything let me know.
Here's what I know after contacting Mighty Mouse on the board. He says to wire the harness, subtract whats not being used and piggyback the factory computer crank sensor wire pin B to pin B on BS3. It seems to easy - As a test I unplugged the cam sensor and everything still worked. You have to add a coolant temp sensor to the pass. side head for BS3 - leave the factory one hooked up as is. Oil pressure is good - it doesn't goes through the ecm.
This is not 100% because I haven't tried it yet, but I will definitely post step-by-step when it is. In the meantime, if you find anything let me know.
Abs normally will throw codes unless you have the pcm connected. It needs to see lots of info from the pcm or it will turn on the light. ABS INOP, LOW TRAC and one more will pop up.
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On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: tampa fl.
Originally Posted by wait4me
Abs normally will throw codes unless you have the pcm connected. It needs to see lots of info from the pcm or it will turn on the light. ABS INOP, LOW TRAC and one more will pop up.
I'm looking @ the schematic for a 01 fire bird w/o traction and there is no wiring going to the computer.
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On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 131
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From: tampa fl.
Originally Posted by wait4me
I was looking at pin number 25, Serial Data, internal of the cluster it goes to Serial out to pcm.
Yes, I see it goes to pin 59 on the ecm. That's why I said its not 100% but by doing what Mighty Mouse said with crank sensor wouldn't that trick the computer in to thinking it was running the show?
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 131
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From: tampa fl.
Okay, I'm good with that, but what about the issues - alt. and fans are controlled by the ecm.
Just for clarification -- just switch to the 98 cluster and jump from the ecm wire going from tank to cluster. The green wire from BS3 (tach output) cut or splice the white wire pin 10 (tach out)?
Just for clarification -- just switch to the 98 cluster and jump from the ecm wire going from tank to cluster. The green wire from BS3 (tach output) cut or splice the white wire pin 10 (tach out)?
Fuel gauge in 98s is PWM from the PCM, no reason to swap clusters to a 98 if you want to keep your gas gauge - thats what the PCM is there for 
Temp gauge is regular analog.
To get the tach to work you need to tap off the crank sensor, there is no selectable tach output on the BS3, if someone made a converter to use the regular 8 cylinder tach output from the BS3 with the stock tach that would be awesome - I'm no big fan of tapping into the crank sensor signal. Only gauge that doesnt work on mine is the tach, I have a small shiftlight/tach driven off the BS3.
As stated just start taking wires you dont need out of the engine harness, I have maybe 20 wires left. Water temp sender, oil sender, alternator (driven of the cluster in 98s, off the PCM on 99+), low oil sender and thats about it. I left all the power feeds and grounds to the PCM also. Since I didnt use the crank sensor signal the check engine light never came off so I just clipped the wire to the PCM that illuminutes the bulb and that was that. I also shut off every code in the PCM.
Works fine and took less then a day to do, get a wiring diagram and dont cut anything unless you are sure where its going, lot of duplicate colors. The pins are easily remobed from the PCM connectors and untaping the harness is biggest PITA.
Naturally if you want the fans and alternator control to work off the pcm you have to splce into the crank sensor so the the PCM 'thinks' the car is running. 98s control the alternator through the cluster. You are going to lose your EVAP most likely too but most people using a BS3 will have no need for that.
Temp gauge is regular analog.To get the tach to work you need to tap off the crank sensor, there is no selectable tach output on the BS3, if someone made a converter to use the regular 8 cylinder tach output from the BS3 with the stock tach that would be awesome - I'm no big fan of tapping into the crank sensor signal. Only gauge that doesnt work on mine is the tach, I have a small shiftlight/tach driven off the BS3.
As stated just start taking wires you dont need out of the engine harness, I have maybe 20 wires left. Water temp sender, oil sender, alternator (driven of the cluster in 98s, off the PCM on 99+), low oil sender and thats about it. I left all the power feeds and grounds to the PCM also. Since I didnt use the crank sensor signal the check engine light never came off so I just clipped the wire to the PCM that illuminutes the bulb and that was that. I also shut off every code in the PCM.
Works fine and took less then a day to do, get a wiring diagram and dont cut anything unless you are sure where its going, lot of duplicate colors. The pins are easily remobed from the PCM connectors and untaping the harness is biggest PITA.
Naturally if you want the fans and alternator control to work off the pcm you have to splce into the crank sensor so the the PCM 'thinks' the car is running. 98s control the alternator through the cluster. You are going to lose your EVAP most likely too but most people using a BS3 will have no need for that.
