Need help with eletrical issue
12-17-2006, 03:07 PM
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Need help with eletrical issue Well this issue is pretty complex so Im going to explain it to the best of my abilities.
My SS has had a eletrical issue for quite sometime and now its made the car inoperable. First off heres the codes its throwing:
C0050 - RR Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction (Current)
B1001 - Option Configuration Error (History) (Immature)
P0300 - Engine Misfire Detected (SES) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
U1016 - Loss of Class 2 Communication with VCM (History)
P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Circuit (Old) (Current) (Immature)
C0110 - Pump Motor Circuit Malfunction (Current)
P0801 - Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
U1000 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction (History) (Immature)
U1301 - Class 2 Short to Battery (History) (Immature)
U1016 - Loss of Class 2 Communication with VCM (History) (Immature)
U1040 - Loss of Class 2 Communications with ABS (History) (Immature)
U1096 - Loss of Communications with IPC (History) (Immature)
Now some of those loss of communication codes are supposedly throw when I use my HPTuners according to thier website.
Now for the other symptoms. I finally got the transmission/oil pan issue fixed and started to drive it up the road only to find a misfire at 2600rpm (clears up once you gas it) and then after about 3 miles the engine just shut off. So I pull over and try to crank it only to find that it will fire up for a second or two and then shut back off.
The last issue is the voltage. The voltage on the dash reads low (but every other gauge on the dash is wrong except the gas gauge. The gauges on the dash also do some crazy, random **** such as doing a sweep every time you start the car, the speedometer needle will peg all the way til it hits the oil pressure needle. My HPTuners log also confirms the low voltage as it reads 12.6 at the most while the car is running. However the altenator is charging the battery at 14.1v.
You gotta a suggestion, shoot it my way because Im about at wits end with this car.
My SS has had a eletrical issue for quite sometime and now its made the car inoperable. First off heres the codes its throwing:
C0050 - RR Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction (Current)
B1001 - Option Configuration Error (History) (Immature)
P0300 - Engine Misfire Detected (SES) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
U1016 - Loss of Class 2 Communication with VCM (History)
P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Circuit (Old) (Current) (Immature)
C0110 - Pump Motor Circuit Malfunction (Current)
P0801 - Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
U1000 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction (History) (Immature)
U1301 - Class 2 Short to Battery (History) (Immature)
U1016 - Loss of Class 2 Communication with VCM (History) (Immature)
U1040 - Loss of Class 2 Communications with ABS (History) (Immature)
U1096 - Loss of Communications with IPC (History) (Immature)
Now some of those loss of communication codes are supposedly throw when I use my HPTuners according to thier website.
Now for the other symptoms. I finally got the transmission/oil pan issue fixed and started to drive it up the road only to find a misfire at 2600rpm (clears up once you gas it) and then after about 3 miles the engine just shut off. So I pull over and try to crank it only to find that it will fire up for a second or two and then shut back off.
The last issue is the voltage. The voltage on the dash reads low (but every other gauge on the dash is wrong except the gas gauge. The gauges on the dash also do some crazy, random **** such as doing a sweep every time you start the car, the speedometer needle will peg all the way til it hits the oil pressure needle. My HPTuners log also confirms the low voltage as it reads 12.6 at the most while the car is running. However the altenator is charging the battery at 14.1v.
You gotta a suggestion, shoot it my way because Im about at wits end with this car.
12-17-2006, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by EvoByDarwin
Grounds are good, any other suggestions?
12-17-2006, 07:03 PM
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Most electircal problems are on the ground side not the power, so like Sean said you should deffinitely check to make sure that all of your grounds are hooked up and then check again. Has the engine ever been removed from the car before? There could also be a problem with your pcm or one of your other computers, so you could have your pcm tested and that might give you some answers.
12-18-2006, 04:46 PM
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I checked the ground mentioned (on the back of the head) and it was loose enough for me to back the bolt out by hand. Even still after inspecting the cable and tightening the bolt, the problem still persists.
Ive had more than a couple people tell me this sounds like the BCM shitting the bed, but Im not sure on how to confirm whether the BCM is good or not.
Also, I re-checked both grounds comming off of the negative battery terminal, and of course the one on the back of the heads, anyone know where the rest are?
Ive had more than a couple people tell me this sounds like the BCM shitting the bed, but Im not sure on how to confirm whether the BCM is good or not.
Also, I re-checked both grounds comming off of the negative battery terminal, and of course the one on the back of the heads, anyone know where the rest are?
Last edited by EvoByDarwin; 12-18-2006 at 04:54 PM.
12-18-2006, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by EvoByDarwin
I checked the ground mentioned (on the back of the head) and it was loose enough for me to back the bolt out by hand. Even still after inspecting the cable and tightening the bolt, the problem still persists.
Ive had more than a couple people tell me this sounds like the BCM shitting the bed, but Im not sure on how to confirm whether the BCM is good or not.
Also, I re-checked both grounds comming off of the negative battery terminal, and of course the one on the back of the heads, anyone know where the rest are?
Ive had more than a couple people tell me this sounds like the BCM shitting the bed, but Im not sure on how to confirm whether the BCM is good or not.
Also, I re-checked both grounds comming off of the negative battery terminal, and of course the one on the back of the heads, anyone know where the rest are?
Theres a ground that goes to the back of the alternator bracket I believe. It is also connected to the frame rail on the drivers side in front of the motor area, dont remember if its the same ground wire but those are 2 points I remember off the top of my head. If the Pcm was ever pulled out you may wanna check it to make sure both plugs went back into it all the way. I think there is a ground wire on the pass side of the bottom of the block to the battery terminal. Also just because you tighten a ground that was loose doesnt mean that it's all good, you should pull it off, clean ground wire and surface it's mating too just to be sure. Hope this helps a little good luck.
Ron H
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12-18-2006, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by EvoByDarwin
I checked the ground mentioned (on the back of the head) and it was loose enough for me to back the bolt out by hand. Even still after inspecting the cable and tightening the bolt, the problem still persists.
Ive had more than a couple people tell me this sounds like the BCM shitting the bed, but Im not sure on how to confirm whether the BCM is good or not.
Also, I re-checked both grounds comming off of the negative battery terminal, and of course the one on the back of the heads, anyone know where the rest are?
Ive had more than a couple people tell me this sounds like the BCM shitting the bed, but Im not sure on how to confirm whether the BCM is good or not.
Also, I re-checked both grounds comming off of the negative battery terminal, and of course the one on the back of the heads, anyone know where the rest are?
