ENG SEN fuse....
Originally Posted by john3daly
Alright guys, thanks for all the input. I went and got a Haynes manual today and traced all the wiring that has the ENG SEN fuse on it. I've unhooked the MAF, the brake switch, and the both o2's...I'm still burning up that fuse. I was looking at the wiring diagrams in my manual and was trying to search for the IGN fuse in the interior fuse box. According to what I looked up, it has nothing to do with the ENG SEN fuse. I'm getting no power to my IGN relay, which has to be activated to let anything with the ENG SEN fuse operate. I think I've blown the fuse in the interior IGN fuse box.
Anyone have any ideas about that?
Anyone have any ideas about that?
Have you pulled ALL the power to your self-installed accessories?
I've disconnected everything from the nitrous kit/window switch. Everyone on here told me to just unhook the MAF/o2's/etc...and then see if it'll work...just read the first couple post.
From what I've read, the car would still start and run without an ENG SEN fuse....but my car won't do anything, hence the reason I'm thinking(hoping) it's the IGN fuse.
From what I've read, the car would still start and run without an ENG SEN fuse....but my car won't do anything, hence the reason I'm thinking(hoping) it's the IGN fuse.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 284
Likes: 1
From: Hebron, Oh
Try unplugging c105 (above the right front wheelhouse underhood). 8-way connector with pink in the b slot. put a new fuse in and see if the short goes away. If not, then your short is still downstream to all your sensors. If so then start tracing upstream to the underhood fuse block. If your not getting power to your ign relay(constant or switched) then check your IGN Maxifuse 50amp in the underhood fuse block.
The only fuse blown is the ENG SEN fuse, all the IGN fuses are fine, except the one inside the car, which has no outside fuse, the fuse is in the wire itself. I have 12V power from the IGN wire from the PCM, but not to the IGN inside the car.
I found three wires that had a fusible link on them. Are these the only three on the car? They were right under the fuse box. I can't tell what they go to, and they're not in my Haynes manual.
Also, I just realized that the radio does not work when the car is in the start position. Everything seems to go dead when I have the key in the start position, however, the horn will still work. It appears that all accessories work when the key is in the ACC position.
Also, I just realized that the radio does not work when the car is in the start position. Everything seems to go dead when I have the key in the start position, however, the horn will still work. It appears that all accessories work when the key is in the ACC position.
UPDATE! Went out just a minute ago and got the car started. Pulled the Starter relay and connected a paperclip to two of the prongs. Bam, the car fired up. What does this mean? Is it the security feature? The security light never comes on.
Now I need to know how to check the resistance in my key and how to bypass the VATS.
Now I need to know how to check the resistance in my key and how to bypass the VATS.
Last edited by john3daly; Mar 21, 2007 at 07:36 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 284
Likes: 1
From: Hebron, Oh
In the schematics I was looking at it did only show three fusible links. As far as not starting, the BCM will not ground the starter enable circuit if the resistance in the key does not match what's stored in the BCM. If you started the car and it continued to run, then I would not think it is a pass-key problem. If the BCM does not see the resistance in the key(to what is stored) it will not send a signal to the pcm which would enable fuel. When this happens, the car will start for a second then die. The security light should be on if the BCM is preventing the car from starting.
Originally Posted by rkinney
In the schematics I was looking at it did only show three fusible links. As far as not starting, the BCM will not ground the starter enable circuit if the resistance in the key does not match what's stored in the BCM. If you started the car and it continued to run, then I would not think it is a pass-key problem. If the BCM does not see the resistance in the key(to what is stored) it will not send a signal to the pcm which would enable fuel. When this happens, the car will start for a second then die. The security light should be on if the BCM is preventing the car from starting.
Is this the security system?
Did you put the paper clip in the contol side of the relay circuit? If so that doesn't eliminate the coil circuit and certainly doesn't mean the relay is bad. Don't replace the relay just yet. The PCM or BCM cuts off fuel if an improper key is used or if the ignition is smashed out by using a comparator circuit between the starter relay and the key switch. If those two counts don't match the fuel pump is cut off. In other words if the number of times the key switch is cycled doesn't match the number of times the starter attempts to start the engine the PCM figures you have a Security issue. Once you use up the fuel in the fuel rails the car will crank, but not run. You need to ask youself why the relay isn't energizing. You have to know what all the ENABLES are to get the coil to energize. You can start at either end of the circuit and start probing or split the difference and start in the middle and head either way at that point. Apparently you have multiple problems. You need to pick one problem. Solve it, then move on to the next issue.
Well, I think the ENG SEN fuse is possibly blowing due to my bad MAF. Would that cause it to blow?
I'm gonna get my spare key tonight and try that out. If that doesn't work, I'm gonna try and bypass the VATS and see if it's a faulty lock cylinder. I've read several threads describing the exact same thing as me and it turned out to be the VATS.
I'm gonna get my spare key tonight and try that out. If that doesn't work, I'm gonna try and bypass the VATS and see if it's a faulty lock cylinder. I've read several threads describing the exact same thing as me and it turned out to be the VATS.
You have to decide whether you're going work on the blowing fuse or the NO START problem. You have two problems so have to pick one or the other and stick with it until you fix it then move on to the other. The MAF won't blow your fuse. The wiring harness on the MAF(upstream side from MAF)might, but you have to know what to look for and where to look. You are going to find the fuse problem when you start going back over the modifications you made BEFORE the fuse started blowing. You do know what a SHORT is which means you know what to look for, right? If not, you need to find someone with knowledge of ohms law and hand them your DVOM and schematic and stand back and watch. Troubleshooting these types of electrical problems isn't easy and if it isn't something you do on a reguar basis the chances of you stumbling upon the problem are slim.
I just want my car to run. I'll figure out the fuse problem later. It'll probably be easier when I have my tuner hook it up.
I unplugged the key cylinder from the VATS and put the key in the ignition. The key cylinder side read exactly what the key pellet read, so I'm sure that's not the problem. I plugged it back into the VATS and then took a reading from the VATS side and it still read 11.69.
Power still shuts down when I just turn the key to the ON position, or w/e position it is just prior to starting the car. Obviously I'm getting power to the IGN relay though, because all the fuses still have power to them when the key is in the ON position. However, the fuse from the inside fuse panel is still dead, the IGN one.
I just want my car to start....
I unplugged the key cylinder from the VATS and put the key in the ignition. The key cylinder side read exactly what the key pellet read, so I'm sure that's not the problem. I plugged it back into the VATS and then took a reading from the VATS side and it still read 11.69.
Power still shuts down when I just turn the key to the ON position, or w/e position it is just prior to starting the car. Obviously I'm getting power to the IGN relay though, because all the fuses still have power to them when the key is in the ON position. However, the fuse from the inside fuse panel is still dead, the IGN one.
I just want my car to start....
