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Do I need to reset LTFTs when starting SD tuning?

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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:29 AM
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Default Do I need to reset LTFTs when starting SD tuning?

I am ready to start working on my VE table (using LT1Edit). When I unplug my MAF to enter SD mode, do I need to reset the LTFTs? I see no way to do this, using either AutoTap or LT1Edit. Currently my LTFTs are ranging from 1.6 down to -12.5 (with MAF enabled, RPM<3k) so I know that I have some work to do. My VE table is the same as stock, which cannot be correct with my turbo system (IMO).
I have read through the stickies and done searches, and the information sometimes conflicts. I do have a good understanding of how to set the VE tables due to all this information on the forum, which is fantastic.
Thanks in advance.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:38 AM
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You dont have to but it is better to reset them, there is no way to reset LTFT's in LT1 Edit.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:42 AM
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No you do need to reset them.... their current value takes into account error from both the VE AND MAF. If you don't/can't reset them, it will take a lot of driving until they properly learn themselves out; I still wouldn't fully trust that tough. Will they perhaps reset just having the battery pulled?
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:44 AM
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I never rest mine when i tuned using LS1 edit and everything turned out OK. I think they may have reset though everytime I did a new flash.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 08:52 AM
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you can reset/clear them by removing the negative battery cable for about 15 minutes
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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OMG, my SES light is on!!!!
Thanks for the quick responses. I hope to get these VE tables set so I can get on to open loop testing and tuning. Perhaps this year I can make it to the track without something breaking (FPR broke last year the very day I was heading to the track ).
Two notes: After unplugging the MAF, my LTFTs changed from 1.6/-15 to +/-6. Is this to be expected? Also, LT1Edit has a button labeled "Calibrate MAF". Do I need to run this also?
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Old May 5, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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I did a lot of work on the induction pieces:

1. Removed the screens and baffles from the snout and fabricated an "air box" to flow the air straight into the filter (K&N, of course)
2. Did a little work on the inside of the lid
3. Gutted, ported and polished the MAF and TB (screen is gone, too)
4. Cut the crankcase vent hose about 1/4" below where it enters the intake

With the MAF on (fail freq. =14000), the LTFT go WAY up (+20 in some cells). Once I enter SD by setting the fail freq. =0, the LTFT come back down to -4 or so.

Is the MAF bad, or just in need of calibration? I really want to work on the VE table, but I'm afraid to with the MAF acting up like that.
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