Do I need to reset LTFTs when starting SD tuning?
04-02-2007, 08:29 AM
#1
Do I need to reset LTFTs when starting SD tuning? I am ready to start working on my VE table (using LT1Edit). When I unplug my MAF to enter SD mode, do I need to reset the LTFTs? I see no way to do this, using either AutoTap or LT1Edit. Currently my LTFTs are ranging from 1.6 down to -12.5 (with MAF enabled, RPM<3k) so I know that I have some work to do. My VE table is the same as stock, which cannot be correct with my turbo system (IMO).
I have read through the stickies and done searches, and the information sometimes conflicts. I do have a good understanding of how to set the VE tables due to all this information on the forum, which is fantastic.
Thanks in advance.
I have read through the stickies and done searches, and the information sometimes conflicts. I do have a good understanding of how to set the VE tables due to all this information on the forum, which is fantastic.
Thanks in advance.
04-02-2007, 08:42 AM
#3
No you do need to reset them.... their current value takes into account error from both the VE AND MAF. If you don't/can't reset them, it will take a lot of driving until they properly learn themselves out; I still wouldn't fully trust that tough. Will they perhaps reset just having the battery pulled?
04-02-2007, 08:52 AM
#5
LS1Tech Sponsor
you can reset/clear them by removing the negative battery cable for about 15 minutes
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06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
04-02-2007, 11:00 AM
#6
OMG, my SES light is on!!!! 
Thanks for the quick responses. I hope to get these VE tables set so I can get on to open loop testing and tuning. Perhaps this year I can make it to the track without something breaking (FPR broke last year the very day I was heading to the track
).
Two notes: After unplugging the MAF, my LTFTs changed from 1.6/-15 to +/-6. Is this to be expected? Also, LT1Edit has a button labeled "Calibrate MAF". Do I need to run this also?
Thanks for the quick responses. I hope to get these VE tables set so I can get on to open loop testing and tuning. Perhaps this year I can make it to the track without something breaking (FPR broke last year the very day I was heading to the track
).Two notes: After unplugging the MAF, my LTFTs changed from 1.6/-15 to +/-6. Is this to be expected? Also, LT1Edit has a button labeled "Calibrate MAF". Do I need to run this also?
05-05-2007, 11:27 AM
#7
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I did a lot of work on the induction pieces:
1. Removed the screens and baffles from the snout and fabricated an "air box" to flow the air straight into the filter (K&N, of course)
2. Did a little work on the inside of the lid
3. Gutted, ported and polished the MAF and TB (screen is gone, too)
4. Cut the crankcase vent hose about 1/4" below where it enters the intake
With the MAF on (fail freq. =14000), the LTFT go WAY up (+20 in some cells). Once I enter SD by setting the fail freq. =0, the LTFT come back down to -4 or so.
Is the MAF bad, or just in need of calibration? I really want to work on the VE table, but I'm afraid to with the MAF acting up like that.
1. Removed the screens and baffles from the snout and fabricated an "air box" to flow the air straight into the filter (K&N, of course)
2. Did a little work on the inside of the lid
3. Gutted, ported and polished the MAF and TB (screen is gone, too)
4. Cut the crankcase vent hose about 1/4" below where it enters the intake
With the MAF on (fail freq. =14000), the LTFT go WAY up (+20 in some cells). Once I enter SD by setting the fail freq. =0, the LTFT come back down to -4 or so.
Is the MAF bad, or just in need of calibration? I really want to work on the VE table, but I'm afraid to with the MAF acting up like that.