Question About My LC-1?
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From: San Diego, Ca
Question About My LC-1? Just got it today (thanks WicketMike)!
This part:
does not seem long enough to reach inside the car so I can mount it somewhere. Can I mount this in the engine bay somewhere, or where should I mount it?
Also, what do these wires do?
Thanks for the help!
Jason
This part:
does not seem long enough to reach inside the car so I can mount it somewhere. Can I mount this in the engine bay somewhere, or where should I mount it?
Also, what do these wires do?
Thanks for the help!
Jason
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Birmingham, AL
OK, first things first... What I've done is made a small hole in my shifter boot and ran the wires up next to the tranny and through this hole, then the unit is inside the car. I just sealed the hole up real good. As for the 2 wires in the bottom pic, there should be an adapter with what looks like a small headphone plug on one end and a serial connector on the other. This plugs into the one labeled OUT. You should also have a terminator to plug into the one labeled IN.
There is a writeup on here somewhere on how to install it. Good luck.
There is a writeup on here somewhere on how to install it. Good luck.
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From: San Diego, Ca
Originally Posted by WS6 GreeN
OK, first things first... What I've done is made a small hole in my shifter boot and ran the wires up next to the tranny and through this hole, then the unit is inside the car. I just sealed the hole up real good. As for the 2 wires in the bottom pic, there should be an adapter with what looks like a small headphone plug on one end and a serial connector on the other. This plugs into the one labeled OUT. You should also have a terminator to plug into the one labeled IN.
There is a writeup on here somewhere on how to install it. Good luck.
There is a writeup on here somewhere on how to install it. Good luck.
I have the headphone plug, but no serial plug.
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From: Lake Zurich, IL
The instructions the LC1 come with detail this all... it should have come with a plug to put into one of the "stereo" jacks....
the control box (that says Innovate on it) is designed to be mounted outside the interior....
If you don't have the LC1 manual:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php
manual is there, describes what the 2 wires do (you need the plug in order to customize the output of the LC1 ... if it was a new kit it should have come with this... as well as the wiring required to calibrate the LC1)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Quickstart.pdf
is a good guide... Innovate refers to the plug as a Terminator Plug (page 2 of the above PDF)
and as indicated, it should have come with a piece that has 1 end that plugs into those plugs (stereo plugs) with other end being a serial port plugin...
I would secure the piece that says "innovate" (brainbox) close to the firewall... then on both driver side and passenger side there are plugs (plastic plugs sealing holes in the firewall) you can run the wires through... shifter boot area is another option as mentioned
the control box (that says Innovate on it) is designed to be mounted outside the interior....
If you don't have the LC1 manual:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php
manual is there, describes what the 2 wires do (you need the plug in order to customize the output of the LC1 ... if it was a new kit it should have come with this... as well as the wiring required to calibrate the LC1)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Quickstart.pdf
is a good guide... Innovate refers to the plug as a Terminator Plug (page 2 of the above PDF)
and as indicated, it should have come with a piece that has 1 end that plugs into those plugs (stereo plugs) with other end being a serial port plugin...
I would secure the piece that says "innovate" (brainbox) close to the firewall... then on both driver side and passenger side there are plugs (plastic plugs sealing holes in the firewall) you can run the wires through... shifter boot area is another option as mentioned
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From: San Diego, Ca
Originally Posted by horist
The instructions the LC1 come with detail this all... it should have come with a plug to put into one of the "stereo" jacks....
the control box (that says Innovate on it) is designed to be mounted outside the interior....
If you don't have the LC1 manual:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php
manual is there, describes what the 2 wires do (you need the plug in order to customize the output of the LC1 ... if it was a new kit it should have come with this... as well as the wiring required to calibrate the LC1)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Quickstart.pdf
is a good guide... Innovate refers to the plug as a Terminator Plug (page 2 of the above PDF)
and as indicated, it should have come with a piece that has 1 end that plugs into those plugs (stereo plugs) with other end being a serial port plugin...
I would secure the piece that says "innovate" (brainbox) close to the firewall... then on both driver side and passenger side there are plugs (plastic plugs sealing holes in the firewall) you can run the wires through... shifter boot area is another option as mentioned
the control box (that says Innovate on it) is designed to be mounted outside the interior....
If you don't have the LC1 manual:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php
manual is there, describes what the 2 wires do (you need the plug in order to customize the output of the LC1 ... if it was a new kit it should have come with this... as well as the wiring required to calibrate the LC1)
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...Quickstart.pdf
is a good guide... Innovate refers to the plug as a Terminator Plug (page 2 of the above PDF)
and as indicated, it should have come with a piece that has 1 end that plugs into those plugs (stereo plugs) with other end being a serial port plugin...
I would secure the piece that says "innovate" (brainbox) close to the firewall... then on both driver side and passenger side there are plugs (plastic plugs sealing holes in the firewall) you can run the wires through... shifter boot area is another option as mentioned
Thanks. I was looking over the manual, it says I should not install the O2 sensor w/out it having power to it. This is a little more involved than I thought...looks like I have a lot of reading and research to do. Lot's of wiring to do, multiple grounds.
What kind of an exhaust setup do you have? X or Y pipe? Do you have cats? I have a Y pipe and I had an extra bung welded in the "I" section for the sensor. This allowed me tuck/ziptie the controller to the fuel lines right around where the backseat hump/fuel filter is. I then removed both the drivers front and back seats. I pulled up the carpet and pulled the rear drivers side drain plug. I poked a hole in it with a scribe and ran the wires up thru the center console. I mounted the cal button and led right next to the cig lighter. For added protection, I ran extra wire from the blue heater ground wire to run under the dash and thru the passenger's side kickpanel/firewall access point. From there I ran that ground all by it's lonesome to the back of the passenger's side and bolted it down. The green, white and cal pushbutton grounds I tied to the chassis by the center console. I ran power from the driver's side fuse panel. DO NOT TIE ALL OF THE GROUNDS TOGETHER. Keep the blue one seperate, off the chassis, perferably on the block. Otherwise go ahead and get a box and postage ready for it to get the DAC removed and replaced.
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From: San Diego, Ca
Originally Posted by Doc
What kind of an exhaust setup do you have? X or Y pipe? Do you have cats? I have a Y pipe and I had an extra bung welded in the "I" section for the sensor. This allowed me tuck/ziptie the controller to the fuel lines right around where the backseat hump/fuel filter is. I then removed both the drivers front and back seats. I pulled up the carpet and pulled the rear drivers side drain plug. I poked a hole in it with a scribe and ran the wires up thru the center console. I mounted the cal button and led right next to the cig lighter. For added protection, I ran extra wire from the blue heater ground wire to run under the dash and thru the passenger's side kickpanel/firewall access point. From there I ran that ground all by it's lonesome to the back of the passenger's side and bolted it down. The green, white and cal pushbutton grounds I tied to the chassis by the center console. I ran power from the driver's side fuse panel. DO NOT TIE ALL OF THE GROUNDS TOGETHER. Keep the blue one seperate, off the chassis, perferably on the block. Otherwise go ahead and get a box and postage ready for it to get the DAC removed and replaced.
I have a fuel pressure gauge keyed for power on the passenger side...can I use that as my 12v source? I also got the gauge and need a ground and power for that as well, I'm sure I can't use the power source for all those, can I? I am not real good on wiring, but I hooked my fuel pressure gauge, took my time and figured it out. I know this is WAY more involved than a fuel gauge, I just hope I don't screw it up.
Oh..on the exhaust, I have LT's, X-Pipe.
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I would seriously consider a ckt/fuse dedicated for the LC-1. With the Xpipe on a Vette I am assuming that you are going to be using the LC-1 to simulate a Narrow band output whilst giving your datalogger(HPT, EFI) the info. Take really slow steps grasshopper with this one. Pain and suffering only await hasty decisions in this endevour. Do a search on this forum and others about LC-1 woes. If you donot intend to become another...read....read...read some more...ask questions...read some more...begin to think about acting on your thoughts...ask more questions...read. Then when you are absolutely sure about how this thing works, install it and you will achieve Nirvana. Skip any of the following and you will just be another unsatisfied LC-1 attempter. And at that point when you have fried it, send it to me.
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I was able to use the WB in the X-pipe.
These are American Racing Headers.
Take the exhaust off, take the torque tube cover off, tie wrapp the controller to the fuel lines, run the WB O2 to the X Pipe, notch the torque tube cover put everything back together.
You can see the WB Controller upper right and the O2 sensor middle left (passenger side).
Grounds I went right to the battery on the unused - post on the optima battery (put a terminal with a wing nut connecter on it).
Power i grabbed from the unused pigtail in the passenger foot well that has a ground/switched/alway hot pigtail wrapped in grey tape from the factory.
I ran the wires through the gromment behind and under the battery, although you could also do it through the shifter boot.
Pigtail upper left in photo above
These are American Racing Headers.
Take the exhaust off, take the torque tube cover off, tie wrapp the controller to the fuel lines, run the WB O2 to the X Pipe, notch the torque tube cover put everything back together.
You can see the WB Controller upper right and the O2 sensor middle left (passenger side).
Grounds I went right to the battery on the unused - post on the optima battery (put a terminal with a wing nut connecter on it).
Power i grabbed from the unused pigtail in the passenger foot well that has a ground/switched/alway hot pigtail wrapped in grey tape from the factory.
I ran the wires through the gromment behind and under the battery, although you could also do it through the shifter boot.
Pigtail upper left in photo above
Last edited by Beer99C5; Apr 25, 2007 at 02:33 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: San Diego, Ca
Originally Posted by Beer99C5
That pigtail powers my Nitrous Arm relays, Bottle heater relay, Purge and Line lock...
Should work fine if your just powering a light from it now.
Should work fine if your just powering a light from it now.
Cool, thanks!
You think I can run the Dynotune gauge and the LC-1 for power as well?
Three relays, the Purge, the Lock, both gauges, have not blown the fuse yet all powered by the switched wire in that pigtail.
The Opener is wired right to the battery.
The LED's get power from the relay when its fired, the efi switch is just a ground to PCM 56 Pin. The gauge switch i refer to as the wife switch, when i am offshore I just switch the gauge off so she does not have to look at them and wonder what the hell they are for.
Thread Starter
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From: San Diego, Ca
For the power to the controller, do you have it fused? The install instructions say to have that fused? Don't know if that really needs to be done?
I think i'm gonna start on this today, maybe tomorrow.
Thanks for the help and guidance.
I think i'm gonna start on this today, maybe tomorrow.
Thanks for the help and guidance.
Thread Starter
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From: San Diego, Ca
Originally Posted by Doc
I would seriously consider a ckt/fuse dedicated for the LC-1. With the Xpipe on a Vette I am assuming that you are going to be using the LC-1 to simulate a Narrow band output whilst giving your datalogger(HPT, EFI) the info. Take really slow steps grasshopper with this one. Pain and suffering only await hasty decisions in this endevour. Do a search on this forum and others about LC-1 woes. If you donot intend to become another...read....read...read some more...ask questions...read some more...begin to think about acting on your thoughts...ask more questions...read. Then when you are absolutely sure about how this thing works, install it and you will achieve Nirvana. Skip any of the following and you will just be another unsatisfied LC-1 attempter. And at that point when you have fried it, send it to me.
Not sure about the first part of your post? I have a gauge that I am hooking up as well. I have done a lot of reading and Beer99c5 has been very helpful. I hope I wont fry it...
