Lost 5 MPH in the 1/4 and 4 tenths Any Ideas????
Well I went to the track Last wed. and on sat. I'm down 5mph and 4 tenths. I don't know why I havent changed anything that would slow me down. Air was in the 300's on both sat and wed. Last year when I ran 118mph air was in the mid 400's. Wind was less than 5mph and it was a cross wind. Seems like maybe Knock Retard But I can't find whats causing it. I have not ATAPed it but I'm looking for someone in NE Ohio to scan it for me.
Last year 11.74 @ 118 1/4 91.2 in the 1/8
This year 12.28 @ 113 1/4 88.7 in the 1/8
Seems to be a even loss across the board.
Heres some info. I have all bolt ons 12 bolt 3.90's, and ARE stage 2 heads and cam 224 234. Stock fuel pump and injectors.
Things changed since last year.
1 Torque Arm. But last year 60' were 1.64 to 1.72 this year they were 1.69. to 1.74 I set up the TA to -2.
2 Rear end reset up but its the same rear end and gears. I just changed the backlash from .000 to .008. Moser was nice enuff to send it to me with no backlash at all.
3 New rotors. They are lighter than stock by about 2 lbs each.
4 Chrome Moly panhard rod.
5 Over the winter I took off the intake valve covers and waterpump, had them painted. Everything was reassembled and checked twice. The car still runs good but does not pull like it did last year.
6 Driveshaft Loop
7 Removed Air Pump. No codes Ed Wright removed the programing for the air pump.
Things I've done to try to fix the problem.
1. I checked to make sure that when the pedal is press to the floor the TB is opening all the way. Results were TB opened all the way.
2. Changed spark plugs. Gapped to 50? Is that a good gap for my setup?
3. Checked all plug wires to make sure connection is good.
4. Checked all connections on motor to make sure there were no unplugged connectios.
5. Checked for exhaust hitting floor and causing Knock Retard. I did find a spot where it looked like the exhaust was hitting the DS Loop. I fixed to loop to get more clearance. (Haven't been to the track since this change. But carr still seems light on power when tested on the road.)
6. reset computer.
7. Checked PCV for oil causing detonation. no oil in manifold.
Oh yea my car is a 01 and has 10k on it. The motor has only about 1200 miles on it, its a ARE 346 short with forged internals. Raceweight is very close to the same as lastyear. Should actually be a little lighter.
Any help or advise would be great.
Thanks Rob
Last year 11.74 @ 118 1/4 91.2 in the 1/8
This year 12.28 @ 113 1/4 88.7 in the 1/8
Seems to be a even loss across the board.
Heres some info. I have all bolt ons 12 bolt 3.90's, and ARE stage 2 heads and cam 224 234. Stock fuel pump and injectors.
Things changed since last year.
1 Torque Arm. But last year 60' were 1.64 to 1.72 this year they were 1.69. to 1.74 I set up the TA to -2.
2 Rear end reset up but its the same rear end and gears. I just changed the backlash from .000 to .008. Moser was nice enuff to send it to me with no backlash at all.
3 New rotors. They are lighter than stock by about 2 lbs each.
4 Chrome Moly panhard rod.
5 Over the winter I took off the intake valve covers and waterpump, had them painted. Everything was reassembled and checked twice. The car still runs good but does not pull like it did last year.
6 Driveshaft Loop
7 Removed Air Pump. No codes Ed Wright removed the programing for the air pump.
Things I've done to try to fix the problem.
1. I checked to make sure that when the pedal is press to the floor the TB is opening all the way. Results were TB opened all the way.
2. Changed spark plugs. Gapped to 50? Is that a good gap for my setup?
3. Checked all plug wires to make sure connection is good.
4. Checked all connections on motor to make sure there were no unplugged connectios.
5. Checked for exhaust hitting floor and causing Knock Retard. I did find a spot where it looked like the exhaust was hitting the DS Loop. I fixed to loop to get more clearance. (Haven't been to the track since this change. But carr still seems light on power when tested on the road.)
6. reset computer.
7. Checked PCV for oil causing detonation. no oil in manifold.
Oh yea my car is a 01 and has 10k on it. The motor has only about 1200 miles on it, its a ARE 346 short with forged internals. Raceweight is very close to the same as lastyear. Should actually be a little lighter.
Any help or advise would be great.
Thanks Rob
You gotta scan it dude (as you know). Anything else is pure conjecture. It might be as simple as being too rich at WOT, but who knows. The answer is in the data.
Good luck!
Good luck!


