There a way to test an LC1 controller to see if it works right?
There a way to test an LC1 controller to see if it works right? I've installed the LC1 controller on the car and have all the wires hooked up (red to power, blue to left side engine bay, brown to EGR, black to calibration inside of car, yellow blank, white to other side of engine bay ground) now when i go to log the voltage of the egr, when i have the key in the on position but not actually having the engine running, the voltage is a 5V, then when i turn the car on and let the car warm up and all i notice the voltage to the EGR is now at 0V, and it dosnt move. When i try to connect the computer up to the logworks2 to see what the controller is seeing, it says to connect the serial port (which is connected already) but when i go to recalibrate it (changing the voltage to read a certain AFR) it dose go threw.
anyways is there some way to check to see if it's working correctly?
anyways is there some way to check to see if it's working correctly?
I just hooked up mine yesterday and if you are hooked up to a 12V keyed source make sure you have the serial port hooked up (which you already do) and turn the key on. Launch the logworks2 application and it should ask you what com port to connect to (mostly Com1) and just click ok. However, you cannot have logworks2 open and the LM programmer. They both try to use the port at the same time and it causes problems.
The way i did it was, removed the WB from the exhaust for the fresh air calibration. turned the car on and watched my XD16, and waited for the heater warm up to finish. Used the push button the XD16 for the fresh air calibration. Turned the car off, hooked the WB back into the exhaust and tuned the key to on again. Tuned on logworks2 (make sure LM Programmer is not running) and watched the heater warm up. Then started the car. You will probly notice the heater warm up cycle again for a few seconds because of the 12v keyed source forces the warmer to reset do to the lack of power during cranking.
You should now see your afr in logworks2. Then you can close logworks2 turn off the car, turn the key to on, open LM programmer and make the changes to your analog output 2 for the 5volts.
The way i did it was, removed the WB from the exhaust for the fresh air calibration. turned the car on and watched my XD16, and waited for the heater warm up to finish. Used the push button the XD16 for the fresh air calibration. Turned the car off, hooked the WB back into the exhaust and tuned the key to on again. Tuned on logworks2 (make sure LM Programmer is not running) and watched the heater warm up. Then started the car. You will probly notice the heater warm up cycle again for a few seconds because of the 12v keyed source forces the warmer to reset do to the lack of power during cranking.
You should now see your afr in logworks2. Then you can close logworks2 turn off the car, turn the key to on, open LM programmer and make the changes to your analog output 2 for the 5volts.
great i have reading! i was afraid the controller went bad or somthing! while i had the car on i noticed that the AFR was grey then green at like 7.4 and grey all over the board, shouldnt it be more steady?
During the first startup it will probly show lean, because of Open loop and depending on your VE tables. It will fluctuate alot during idle, because the PCM is learning the fueling and the LC1 takes readings every .08 seconds, which is fast, but AFR can change alot in .08 seconds.
i have the car at open loop. i would post the log of the guage reading but all it reads is like bionary code, open then close open then closed, like there really isnt much in the middle.
