Can stock Tach be improved to read accurately/precisely?
From my understanding the ECM gives the signal to the stock tach and any aftermarket guages tap into this same signal. Thats when the descrepency between the stock gauge and the aftermarket gauge rears its head.
Can the stock electronics be improved to read correctly? I am posting in hopes that someone with a background in EE or electronics can shed some light.
Can the electronics be rebuild with better components to improve its accuracy?
I am pretty sure it can be rebuilt to work better but I don't think anybody has really tried. Well at the very least I have seen no information up to now on it. There are people on this board who can do it I just hope he/she runs across this post.
Trending Topics
So u working on that patch or what?
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Good luck!
Most of the gauges grab their info from the class 2 VPW data bus however the tach does not. The tach has its own signal still which is perfectly fine. You can see this when you add an aftermarket tach.
The problem is the gauge itself.
I have a 99 PCM setup with a 97 cluster. If you recall the LT1's have quick responsive tach's unlike the LS1 clusters. My tach is currently off but with a tach adjuster box I hope it to still be responsive.
Also, for those of you who have tachs off at idle, you needle is off, not the signal. You need to pop the needle an dput it back on.. I've never tried this though.
Also, 99+ coolant temps are grabbed from the VPW bus as well which is why they aren't enirely accurate, however the 98 setup has its own feed from the sensor.
So your saying that the 98 temp sensor is directly hooked up to the gauge?
What parts would need to be replaced in the stock tach to improve its precision?
What makes the LT1 tach "quick responsive"?
I know theres a bit of controls engineering involved in this, unfortunately its not my specialty otherwise I would try and work something out and do a write. I also have a few sources at GM but don't want to tap it just yet.
GM makes the LT1 tach quick responsive.. ANy more than that I couldn't tell you.
Most of the gauges grab their info from the class 2 VPW data bus however the tach does not. The tach has its own signal still which is perfectly fine. You can see this when you add an aftermarket tach.
The problem is the gauge itself.
I have a 99 PCM setup with a 97 cluster. If you recall the LT1's have quick responsive tach's unlike the LS1 clusters. My tach is currently off but with a tach adjuster box I hope it to still be responsive.
Also, for those of you who have tachs off at idle, you needle is off, not the signal. You need to pop the needle an dput it back on.. I've never tried this though.
Also, 99+ coolant temps are grabbed from the VPW bus as well which is why they aren't enirely accurate, however the 98 setup has its own feed from the sensor.
Switching to a 98 cluster anyway still leaves you with slow responsive tach.
PS. The service manual is wrong.. *i think* lol.. but I'm pretty sure it is wrong.
the basic shift light is triggered by a certain voltage that you select, no?
for intalling the shift light you tap into the appropriate(don't remember without looking it up) wire coming off the PCM labeled tach(utilizing voltage?) thus the tach does have it's own "feed" if you will, no?
unless shift light can decode the digital signal being sent to the gauge cluster they must have a seperate feed.
Switching to a 98 cluster anyway still leaves you with slow responsive tach.
PS. The service manual is wrong.. *i think* lol.. but I'm pretty sure it is wrong.
Probably need to get a part number on it. I'll work on that.
QuickSSilver touched on the points that I was making. Any aftermarket tach/light taps into the same signal coming from the PCM as the OEM tach. Again I am not an EE and my background in controls engineering is very weak at best.
I figure that the electronics the stock tach has after it recieves the signal can be replaced or modified to read correctly.
So who knows how to tinker with a tach?
You know this really sucks. I just moved and I don't have access to a digital camera anymore or tools. I really want to figure this out!


