what to do?
what to do? ok so here is my issue. I used to have a hotcam in the car, ran a 12.5 @ 111 with a 1.80 60' in full street trim minus the ET streets.
I am eventually going turbo but for now I wanted a cam that would be better N/A than the hot cam(since it is a horrible turbo cam anyways) as well as work with a turbo. I also wanted to change valve springs before the turbo.
So i got in on a TR group purchase.... and installed a 227/224 .570"/.563" - 114 cam with the 918 springs, hardened pushrods and an ASP/JET underdrive.
Well i took it to the track and ran a few 13.2's with a best of 12.91 @ 106 with a 1.75 60. I am not worried about the times so much as i am the mph... which means i lost a ton of HP.
So MM let me use his Autotap to see what was going on. A/F looked fine, but my max timing at WOT was only 15-16 degrees and my KR was 3.9 across above 3500rpm's. So i was on the low timing table and i had the infamous KR of the '98 cars.
Well i reflashed my computer and closed my cut-out and logged the car again... the result was 0 KR, 28 degrees of timing and noticeably more power.
So now i am wondering if i do have bad KR sensors that are picking up false knock coming from vibrations due to the cut-out?
I am ordering Edit in a day or two, can anyone recommend some general changes besides copying the high octane table to the low?
I am running his MAFT as well to get my L-trims negative. Right now i am having to run the maft at 15% rich on the base to do so..... so how do i fix this with edit?... PE table or?
So has anyone had this sorta problem with a cut-out? With the cut-out closed, the exhaust has to run through a crappy spintech muffler.
Thanks
I am eventually going turbo but for now I wanted a cam that would be better N/A than the hot cam(since it is a horrible turbo cam anyways) as well as work with a turbo. I also wanted to change valve springs before the turbo.
So i got in on a TR group purchase.... and installed a 227/224 .570"/.563" - 114 cam with the 918 springs, hardened pushrods and an ASP/JET underdrive.
Well i took it to the track and ran a few 13.2's with a best of 12.91 @ 106 with a 1.75 60. I am not worried about the times so much as i am the mph... which means i lost a ton of HP.
So MM let me use his Autotap to see what was going on. A/F looked fine, but my max timing at WOT was only 15-16 degrees and my KR was 3.9 across above 3500rpm's. So i was on the low timing table and i had the infamous KR of the '98 cars.
Well i reflashed my computer and closed my cut-out and logged the car again... the result was 0 KR, 28 degrees of timing and noticeably more power.
So now i am wondering if i do have bad KR sensors that are picking up false knock coming from vibrations due to the cut-out?
I am ordering Edit in a day or two, can anyone recommend some general changes besides copying the high octane table to the low?
I am running his MAFT as well to get my L-trims negative. Right now i am having to run the maft at 15% rich on the base to do so..... so how do i fix this with edit?... PE table or?
So has anyone had this sorta problem with a cut-out? With the cut-out closed, the exhaust has to run through a crappy spintech muffler.
Thanks
