:b ang:I Deal mostly with the mechanical stuff at work. Not so much the electrical stuff like installing WideBand o2's on my car I was wondering if anyone who has been successful with an Innovate LC-1 would mind telling me what fuses they wired their power into, and where they found a good ground for the two different wires. I know that if the ground isn't right it will give you bad readings, and I don't want to overload a radio circuit by wiring a wideband O2 into it. Thanks in advance

Jake

 

Here's how mine is.

You can try this and see how it goes.
Uses the pass side rear O2 to power, you'll either need to cut up one of the stock O2's or an extension.
And grounded to both heads, one ground per side.

You'll need a bolt for each head, some other connectors, and some lengths of wire to do it this way, but grounding to the heads has been reported as best practice with these.

I'd like to see if it works for someone else since its been working for me for about 3 years.

 

First off thank you very much I am going to try this first thing tomorrow. But I do have a couple of questions. first off where did you wire in the analog 2 out? also did you connect the wires the front, side or back of the heads? I was also wondering if bundleing the extra wiring would affect the signal. magnetic field kind of thing.

thanks again
Jake

 

analog 2 goes up back of engine bay and into the EGR brown. Just gotta wire it careful and keep it away from heat. Along the route of the old O2 wiring is good. The grounds wire into the back of each head, not going to lie to you, they are damn near impossible to get in, but it makes it work so its worth the time. The bolts are the big ones and are the same size as the big bolts on the front of the heads, not sure what size they are, might be like 12mm or something like that. gotta run.

 

Sorry to be so vague, that pic is just a guide I made for myself to keep it in order when messing with it.

Your gonna have to fill in the blanks with the wiring and the connectors.
Might need to make some trips to Radio Shack or a hardware store to find crimps that will allow you to connect wires, and a loop connector to fit on the bolts that go into the heads.
You'll also want some electrical tape.
You can get that when your at Home Depot getting the primary wire.

You might be inclined to do some soldering too.

Depending on what you want in the car and what you can live without will determine how hard of job it is.
The LC-1 itself is zip tied on the trans cross member and I have the extra bung welded into the pass side pipe before the cat converter.

Like I said, I cannibalized one of my O2 extensions to make the connector for the power, and it will give you a nice metal connector to use when plugging into the EGR connector. The actual pins on the weather packs are similar in this case and makes it a little easier if you don't want to buy a specific weather pack. You could always just cut the EGR wire and connect it that way but I don't like chopping permanent stuff.

I currently have everything wired into the cab in the car and into the center console with the light, calibration button and flip switch to turn it off and on so its not heating and on when I'm flashing tunes.
That's kind of extreme, but nice if you are leaving it in permanently or semi-perm.
It also gives you the LED to see its working properly all the time.

I spent a lot of time on getting it setup this way and it went through a couple revisions but its really nice and convenient now.
You can prob rig up a simple working setup pretty quick and make it pretty later when you have your time sensitive tuning done.

Good luck,
I wish I had taken better notes when I did it or took pix cause I'm kind of proud of the setup.

 

Good to know that I wasn't the only one to do that