Off topic help needed...
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Off topic help needed... Hey guys, sorry, I know this isnt the place for this, but I need help. I put a new ignition switch in my wifes 1998 Buick Centry 3.1L V6 and it wont start. I was extremely careful when reinstalling the new switch. Turning the key does EVERYTHING that it should, even the fuel pump cycles. Just turning the key to START does nothing. Is this just a VATS issue?? And can my HP Tuners VCM Pro disable this for me?? If I turn the key to RUN, a few idiot lights are on as per normal, but one of them is the SECURITY light. Im not sure if this is normal (wifes car). Once again, sorry for being out of place, but could someon please help me???? Im close to burning this car to the ground. Thanks, Mike.
probably a vats issue, it that a square steering column, or a round one?? If the car has the chip in the key, you have to have a new key cut for the switch from a gm dealer. Also possible that you didnt get the electical part of the ignition switch plugged back in all the way.
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Square or round?? Well, I think its kinda squarish at the end, like where the steering wheel is, but if you mean the column going under the dash and to the engine bay, thats round. I got AC Delco pn D1476E from GM dealer today. The car does have the 'chip' in the key (resistor). I checked the connector under the dash and made sure it was tight (one of those screw together ones). I didnt change the lock cylinder tho, just the actual ingition switch itself. I didnt think not changing the lock cylinder would be a problem. I thought it would be ok because same key, same cylinder, just different wires. Although, Im not quite sure where the PCM gets its reference for what resistance its looking for from the key. Is that built into the part that I replaced?? Thanks for helping, I really appreciate it. Mike.
probably the key not matching the new part u installed. Sorry but no experience with this problem. If you would like I can check with my friend who works at a local GM dealer. I will ask him tomm and post back here.
ok here goes, spoke to him today and he said this :
1- Link Chip on key to corresponding chip in ignition via soldering a wire between the two.
2- There is a yellow wire apparently below the steering wheel that you would need to remove from where its attached and link it to above.
:S Man i think i confused myself
,it was a long day at work and i think i'm not remembering it correctly. Let me call him again . Give me an hour or two and I'll post again.
Tell me though , does above make any sense to you ?
1- Link Chip on key to corresponding chip in ignition via soldering a wire between the two.
2- There is a yellow wire apparently below the steering wheel that you would need to remove from where its attached and link it to above.
:S Man i think i confused myself
,it was a long day at work and i think i'm not remembering it correctly. Let me call him again . Give me an hour or two and I'll post again. Tell me though , does above make any sense to you ?
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Thanks for the help V8. Althought, I think you did have a long day and are slightly confused.
There are 2 yellow wires. One for the airbag...not gonna touch it. The other is big one (10 guage) going into / out of the switch itself. The lock cylinder has 2 small white wires going to it (to the keys chip/resistor I assume). Do you mean I should cross these wires?? Is that what you are saying?? It doesnt make much sense to cross the big yellow wire to the little white ones.
Im waiting for the dudes at HP Tuners to make me a file (or whatever they are doing) so that I can disable the VATS with my software from the laptop. I hope that solves it. But if there is another way that you can find out of and tell me about so that I dont have to hack into the program Id prefer that.
Thanks again!!!
There are 2 yellow wires. One for the airbag...not gonna touch it. The other is big one (10 guage) going into / out of the switch itself. The lock cylinder has 2 small white wires going to it (to the keys chip/resistor I assume). Do you mean I should cross these wires?? Is that what you are saying?? It doesnt make much sense to cross the big yellow wire to the little white ones.
Im waiting for the dudes at HP Tuners to make me a file (or whatever they are doing) so that I can disable the VATS with my software from the laptop. I hope that solves it. But if there is another way that you can find out of and tell me about so that I dont have to hack into the program Id prefer that.
Thanks again!!!
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Got it running!!!!
Not quite sure what I did, but it runs again.
I crossed the wires going to lock cylinder, then I grounded each one (check for potential). Fiddled with some other wires, and then turned the key and it started. Wierd. That was with the old ignition switch. I put the new one in, and it fired right up again.
Whatever, its running again. And after the new bumper goes on its FOR SALE!!!! Cant wait to see that thing drive away.
V8, thanks again for your help. Your post got me thinking and now its running again, so thanks a bunch.
Not quite sure what I did, but it runs again.
I crossed the wires going to lock cylinder, then I grounded each one (check for potential). Fiddled with some other wires, and then turned the key and it started. Wierd. That was with the old ignition switch. I put the new one in, and it fired right up again.
Whatever, its running again. And after the new bumper goes on its FOR SALE!!!! Cant wait to see that thing drive away.
V8, thanks again for your help. Your post got me thinking and now its running again, so thanks a bunch.