knock sensor help
when I did my cam swap, due to my specific cam I had to mess with my misfire tables thresholds.
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Low input can mean bad sensors (not the case because they are new), wiring issues, sensor installation issues, or PCM issues. If the circuit inside the PCM that feeds the sensors goes bad, then a low input will be displayed.
Low input has nothing to do w/ knock. The signal related to the sensor has an issue. Maybe there's fluid in the sensor hole. The only way you're gonna know is to look yourself. Remove the intake, remove the knock sensor connectors & look in the sensor hole. Then remove each sensor & look @ them & the hole they came out of. There should be no thread sealer or teflon on the sensor, this will kill the ground & cause your issue. Then re-check the wiring, all the way into the PCM connector.
My damn wiring schematic doesn't show what the input is. So, just check with a multimeter to see that you are getting a voltage or a current @ the connector that plugs into the knock sensor. Put one lead on the connector & the other lead to the side of the tapped hole that the sensor came out of. The key power must be "on" & car NOT running. Won't run anyway without the intake, but, wanted to note it. If you get power, note what the power is. Also, if you get power, re-install the knock sensors into their holes & do not connect the wires to them. Now check voltage using the knock sensor as the ground. If same power, then re-install the wiring to the knock sensors, then install the intake. Clear the knock sensor codes. Drive the car. If the knock codes come on again, then it is most likely the PCM (all other things checked).
The PCM has a resistor of equal value connected between 5v and the knock input pin. The knock signal then sits at 2.5v.
Your new sensors must have the same value as the original ones.
If the knock signal wire breaks or the connector comes off, the quiescent knock signal would be high (5v). If the wire is pinched and shorts to ground, the knock signal would be low.


