DRL Tips
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Lexington Park, MD
DRL Tips All,
Just figured I'd pass this info out as I ran into a few problems with the Daytime Running Lights on my 98 T/A while attempting to replace the bezels and lights.
First a warning- when I attempted to open the drop out panel to access the lights (yes my hands too fat) I removed the bolts but, while attempting to do so I ripped the plastic bumper lip that was attached to the front bumper due in part to the metal clip attached to the plastic bumper being rusted to the bolt and the twisting force applied by the tools. So just be aware. If you need to fix the panel you should get a strong 2 part apoxy as the weak stuff I had (for the door panel fix) didn't work as well.
2nd- When removing then replacing the DRL bezels be careful not to over tighten the bolts (10mm) as they will strip the plastic bezel bolt hole, you should only get about 20-30 turns with the rachet and you will feel the bolt getting fairly tight. To check for clearance try to stick you finger nail behind the washer if there is a considerable amount of room continue to tighten but do so slowly.
3rdly- When replacing the bulbs do not jam the light in the socket as I found that I was running into the same problems that everyone was having with the turn signal staying on. After trouble shooting and searching LS1Tech I checked the 4-way flashers and found that the front driver's side bulb was not lit. When I finally removed everything again
and dropped the bulb down from the housing I found that the bulb allowed for a little play past the point were the bulb would sit normally. I adjusted the bulb and checked it... it worked correctly. I reassembled everything and it has worked fine since. 
Just a little FYI for those wanting to replace the bezels that are extremely faded, they also look much better.
Steve
Just figured I'd pass this info out as I ran into a few problems with the Daytime Running Lights on my 98 T/A while attempting to replace the bezels and lights.
First a warning- when I attempted to open the drop out panel to access the lights (yes my hands too fat) I removed the bolts but, while attempting to do so I ripped the plastic bumper lip that was attached to the front bumper due in part to the metal clip attached to the plastic bumper being rusted to the bolt and the twisting force applied by the tools. So just be aware. If you need to fix the panel you should get a strong 2 part apoxy as the weak stuff I had (for the door panel fix) didn't work as well.
2nd- When removing then replacing the DRL bezels be careful not to over tighten the bolts (10mm) as they will strip the plastic bezel bolt hole, you should only get about 20-30 turns with the rachet and you will feel the bolt getting fairly tight. To check for clearance try to stick you finger nail behind the washer if there is a considerable amount of room continue to tighten but do so slowly.
3rdly- When replacing the bulbs do not jam the light in the socket as I found that I was running into the same problems that everyone was having with the turn signal staying on. After trouble shooting and searching LS1Tech I checked the 4-way flashers and found that the front driver's side bulb was not lit. When I finally removed everything again
and dropped the bulb down from the housing I found that the bulb allowed for a little play past the point were the bulb would sit normally. I adjusted the bulb and checked it... it worked correctly. I reassembled everything and it has worked fine since. Just a little FYI for those wanting to replace the bezels that are extremely faded, they also look much better.
Steve
