cluch problems
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2013
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cluch problems i got a 1996 formula ws6 dus the ws6 take a diffrent slave sillender and master cilnder than what is stock cause i can get it to bleed but it is not enough to disengauge the cluch after i replaced the cluch and any ideas what it could be
All LT / M6's have the same fluid clutch system and parts.
You'll need to bleed the air out of the system - I feel your pain - I've had this happen a couple of times.
Remove the slave from the bellhousing and also remove the rubber insert from inside the fluid reservoir on the firewall. With the reservoir filled with clean, new brake fluid, "pump" the slave slowly to the full 'in' position about a dozen times. Do this until there are no more bubbles that appear in the reservoir. If the bubbles never cease, then you need to replace the master and slave cylinders; do the "drill mod" too (do a search if you don't know what that is) while everything is apart - Good Luck!
You'll need to bleed the air out of the system - I feel your pain - I've had this happen a couple of times.
Remove the slave from the bellhousing and also remove the rubber insert from inside the fluid reservoir on the firewall. With the reservoir filled with clean, new brake fluid, "pump" the slave slowly to the full 'in' position about a dozen times. Do this until there are no more bubbles that appear in the reservoir. If the bubbles never cease, then you need to replace the master and slave cylinders; do the "drill mod" too (do a search if you don't know what that is) while everything is apart - Good Luck!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
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thanks but got a new slave and master and got all the air out just not enough but would a adjustable cluch master help out any and is there a way to get a longer rod for the slave or would that hert more than help
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2011
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You might have a bad slave... I wouldn't mess with the rod, because if the slave over travels that could screw things up as well. My LT1 slave overextended and the fork would actually contact the fingers on the pressure plate. The stock setup should disengage the clutch pretty early on the pedal travel. Now my clutch has a good amount of dead travel after the clutch disengages. Pull it apart and bleed it again for starters. And please do take a spelling lesson. Best of luck
