Hi every one,

i am finaly about to aquire a 02 ws6 with 9500 miles on it. i had some questions, i am new to pontiac and have decent understanding of how cars work,but my questions may still seem stupid so please go easy on me.
1) i have read about headlights,blinkers and fog lights going out, any feed back on this please.
2)air conditioning issues.
3)piston slap(what exactly is this?)and is this normal.
4)window motors going out, and tracks breaking.
5)t-tops leaking, is there any preventitive measures that can be taken to stop this from happening(lubing seal??)
6)the o2 i am getting has borla cat backs,intercooler tips,is this a
good setup.

i have always loved the trans am and the hood is freaking awsome, this site is great and hope you guys can help me out. you guys rock!

 

Welcome a'board'!

My .02 cents worth, ...

1) An '02 with only 9500 miles, I wouldn't worry about it for a couple of years, ...
2) "
3) May not be so noticeable on an '02. But let it warm up before you trounce on it, ...
4) See number 1), ...
5) You already said it, ..., preventative measures, ..., GM has a product recommendation.
6) Everyone has an opinion on the exhaust, Borla is a well known product.

Good Luck!
(Respect the cars power if yer a newbie with something like this. Not saying that you are a newbie, I don't know yer history. Just be careful, a lot of people wreck within weeks, ...)

 

hi pontiacfan,

thanks for the feed back. could you explain what the piston slap is.is this something that i will eventually have to get repaired or can i drive with for as long as i have the car. i am not hard on my cars and i would be using this as my daily driver. i just like to cruise and occasionaly smoke a ricer on the highway, but thats about it. also how much are the replacement bulbs for the head lights. i read that they will burn about a quart of oil between changes is this correct and normal? i guess since this is my daily driver i am just really curious about the overall reliability.

thanks again.

 

Only some of the LS1's burn excessive oil some dont, and most likely you wont have to worry about that, i dont know too much about the piston slap, ponitacfun probably knows more than me, if you dont plan on modding much borla is good, just with some headers and no cats it can get raspy, my window motors are still good and i have 120k on the car, the headlights should be fine, as for the signals as long as the lenses dont get cracked and let water in your fine, foglights should be good too, as far as i know 02's didnt have a problem with the a/c, the problem was that in my car (98) the computer didnt shut off the a/c compressor in time at wide open throttle (WOT) so it couldnt take it over and over and it blew the compressor, its a programming issue, and now i have the 02 program so its been fine ever since, you shouldnt have to worry about anything you mentioned for a long time, some sub frames maybe a good preventative measure tho for overall frame rigidy, that is a big reason t-tops leak

 

thanks for the info, are the subframes a bolt-on or do they need to welded in, also how much more weight would that add, its not a big deal, but was just curious.

thanks

 

You can get them both ways. Bolt in versions typically cost more than the weld-in connectors. I don't have any myself yet, but it seems that from what I've seen the weld-in subframe connectors seem to tuck up under the car better.

 

I have an 02 WS6 Collector Edition. I have the familiar piston slap in my motor of 28,000 miles. I am currently waiting to see what GM is going to do about it. They may have to change No. 1 piston with oversize one or sleeve it. What causes this is they bored the block incorrectly at the factory. Only problem I have is a ticking when first starts then goes away, otherwise love my TA and the power. Good luck.

 

yep! sounds like i got that **** going on. got my t/a earlier this week and have been drivng it and i here it. at first it was not as noticable(i guess i was stoked about finaly getting my t/a), but now i hear it loud and clear. it has the knocking when i start it and it ticks. i figured with only 9500 miles on it and in perfect condition i would not have any problems. i been doing some research on the the internet about this "piston slap" and all i have to say is "**** you gm", but other than that everything else is okay so far, well at least it looks cool going down the road, good power to.
(my mullet is starting to come in nicely)

 

I've had my 2001 since Nov 2000 and have been racing it since it's had 6K on it, and now has 56K on it. It's modified and it's run hard at the track and it's a strong car. The noise that GM stated as 'cold knock' was to be relieved by bearing tolerance so they said. If it doesn't go away after it comes to temp then you have a problem.

Here is what they stated were the benefits as of 8/00 when I printed the article.

Mine does this it was noticeable when I had 3K on the motor. It's normal to me and it goes away. I've yet to break anything on my car with close to 300 passes on the track.

The oil consumption in some LS1's is worse than others. I used oil in between changes but I race my car and I shift on the street around 3K or above each shift, and I shift around 6600 at the track. The original TSB from GM on oil consumption was using a quart of oil every 4-600 miles. To use a half quart in between changes is not a big deal. I added a quart in between my last 2 times out at the track in the last 3 weeks. A half 2 weeks ago and last night another half.

Just monitor your oil, LS1's don't like to be starved. Although, you have a low oil light that comes on I'd still check your oil. Low oil will result in spinning a rod bearing aka "fucked motor'

Low tension rings are the cause of using oil as I do, they flutter. But in the bad cases as mentioned above then you would be looking at re ringing the motor. My buds Z06 had that issue, it's been fixed and since then the car ran 11.70 @ 120 with exhaust done as it's only mod (headers and catback)

Window motors suck, I've had 2 replaced under warranty. Easy fix, you can do that yourself buy getting a motor from Advance Auto parts.

Bulbs, they blow I think I've lost 2 blinkers in 4 yrs.....and for headlight motors they last it's the plastic gear that strips. Easily replaced by a CNC machined brass gear and problem is solved.

T-tops can leak, I've yet to notice anything, but years ago during heavy rain I got water in, only happened once and never again. As for T tops and having to get subframe connectors I still to date don't have any, no leaks, or rattles.

Enjoy your car it's still under warranty.

 

thanks for the info,but i dont understand. it seems that as f-body owners we just accept the situation. things like "mine uses a quart of oil every 2000miles" or " it makes a ticking noise but then it goes away". that is just ******* bullshit. we've been making cars for a almost a hundred years and they still cant get it right. i've heard people say dont get on them to hard and they will be fine, ITS A ******* MUSCLE CAR!!! youre supposed to get on it. its like saying dont tow anything, or put anything in the bed of a duramax, the shocks may blow out. i realize that people race and drag there cars and have all kinds of mods and have things happen, but if you race and mod thats to be expected. i dont peronally get on my car that hard,i know that is contradictory to what i said a few lines up, but i am just trying to make a point. unfortunatly i have no warranty because 3 years were up before the miles(i guess i should have got a extended warranty, but reading that gm wont do anything anyway, except lie and deceive, i guess it doesnt matter). i know i'm new and ranting, but i am ******* pissed, i look after my cars and have never had any of this. i am gong to keep an eye on the oil level and start stocking.

 

Hey, I can understand your frustrations, really. But the known issues some have, some don't for the most part these motors hold up. Abused is what's done at the track WOT runs but honestly, these motors love to run! My 01 was a dog until I began to race it. The motor only got stronger as I got more miles on it. Peak is around 12K miles. I never used to get on it, I babied it and it was a dog. It felt so good after a night at the track.

I accept the oil consumption I have, I race mine. I check it and I add it, to me I haven't a ring or bore issue because I don't use what GM is aware of in consumption with cars with bad rings. How do you think my buddy felt having the dealer tear down his motor on his Z06? He trusted them and they are a good dealer and they now have a performance shop and dyno there.

If you took off the intake manifold you will see oil. It gets sucked up under it. Alot of guys have done the PCV mod or added breathers to reduce this issue of oil usage. My Man blew up his LS1 and since rebuilt and forged it for a 200 shot of nitrous. His motor burns no oil at all. It's within the rings due to the low tension as I told you like mine. He told me if it bugs me that bad all I have to do is buy pistons and he'll do my motor forged. But why? It's fine, if I blow something from racing then I will. But for now, I enjoy what I have.

Like I said, mine has that tapping at cold start up and it runs good. It goes away so I don't worry about it. You wanna know real frustration? My 2000 Trans Am was a LEMON with a bad motor that would ping regardless of the RPM. My oil sample sent out after 500 driven miles had copper, silicon, fuel in it. GM only wanted to give me a warranty and told me all LS1's ping BS!! Not when you have anti detonation devices such as knock sensors............NO way not on a brand new car! So I went Lemon Law and won. Got my 2001 brand new and it's been fine. It makes noise at start up, I will settle with the known issue that so far in 56K miles of abused, raced miles my motor is fine.

Drive it, enjoy it like the most everyone here. This issue has been dragged around for years on these boards. Some cars have had issues like my Lemon that GM bought back. But for the majority of the cars here and alot of stock internal LS1's still racing with upwards of 60-80K miles with heads, cam, nitrous they are a strong motor and hard to kill.

Seriously, enjoy your car.

 

Congrats on the car! LS1 are a ton of fun man!

I have a 99 Formula 49K, My input on your questions below.....

1) i have read about headlights,blinkers and fog lights going out, any feed back on this please. - I have had NO problems or replacements....

2)air conditioning issues. - NONE Ice Cold

3)piston slap(what exactly is this?)and is this normal. - My car does it at a cold start, I always let the car warm up at least 5 min every cold start, I have been late to work thanks to this I'd rather save the car and take the **** at work

4)window motors going out, and tracks breaking. - Not mine, My buddy with a 98 TA did have a problem

5)t-tops leaking, is there any preventitive measures that can be taken to stop this from happening(lubing seal??) - Nope, I wipe them down with vasoline once in a wile

6)the o2 i am getting has borla cat backs,intercooler tips,is this a
good setup. - Expensive and nice! I like my loudmouth tho, I would keep it on if I were you!

Have fun!!!!!!!!!

 

yep I have an 02 ws6 and love it. I do beat on it but also garage it. No leaks yet at 24k and correct me if I am wrong but you said you have an 02 that would mean that your car is still under warranty now. late 2005 your warranty would be up that would be 3 yrs. I am also thinking about the extended warranty, but can't find a good dealer around me.

 

billybob,

this piston slap is a serious consideration. this comes about from lack of tight tolerances during the machining process. you should never have to add oil between oil changes. if you do then there is a problem. GM is aware of this issue and has taken a black eye from it. the good news is that future engines should not have this problem. the engine needs to have the steel cylinder sleeves replaced with sleeves with a tighter tolerance to the O/D of the piston. this should be a warranty isssue but GM realizes that the cost to do a recall would be cost prohibative. so they have labled it as "something that is acceptable". if this issue means much to you, and it would to me then you may be able to sell what you have and go with a different engine. the T/A is very popular and most folks don't know much about engineering and machining and will just "live with it". so the car will be easy to sell to folks who don't truly understand what the problem is. for $20-30k for a car i would not.
take a look at a T/A with a different engine or consider looking at the new mustang.

the japanese have quality control and tight tolerances nailed. that is why they have such long term reliability and retain value better on the used car market. once the jap methods and processes are integrated into american manufacturing things will be much different. if the japs would produce true "muscle cars" then US manufacturers would be in trouble. research a car thoroughly before purchasing and you will stay away from issues such as "piston slap".

 

Welp, the day I blow up it will be rebuilt and balanced and forged for nitrous So far so good approaching 57K of raced miles.