Looking to maintain 14v
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On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 144
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Looking to maintain 14v An Intro Rant...
So a while back I had a voltage issue after switching to an underdrive crank, my alternator fried itself. No matter what my operating voltage at the cars voltage sensor read at 12.6-12.9.
First I tried an over driven high output alternator from powerbastards. It didnt work and brought more problems. Switched back to a new stock alternator and had to replace my BCM at the same time. Back to square one voltage would not go over 12.9.
Had Jeremy Formato run an extra wire from the battery to the alternator and also added an extra ground. He made it look clean as if from the factory, props to his fab work. It solved my problem and my gto on cold starts it would read 14.5 at the dash. Only problem was that on cold starts it would take about 20 seconds for it to go from cranking 12v to 14v+. If that is even a problem...
My concern is that when starting cold I am at 14.5v but as the car warms up and reaches operating temps I drop, in stop and go traffic, to 13.6v no lower. It may just be the heat of miami and longtubes causing this but I dont know.
I would like to find a way to keep it at 14-14.5v
I am considering one of 3 options.
1. As I am going supercharged, I am selling my underdrive pulley. I am thinking going back to the stock crank pulley and that should be fine for my alternator output at idle. If anything my alternator spinning 25% more than it is now and maybe that in itself keeps my idle output up. The only worry I have is if the heat is in fact causing the drop when warmed up then it will carry over in this option. (No cost)
2. Get a 10% overdrive crank pulley. Same heat problem as option number 1. (500-600$)
3. Like option 1 back to stock crank. Switch to an 8237-270-XP-OE High Amp alternator ( ive seen videos of this bad boy under heat testing and it works ) and hope it meets my expectations. (700$)
So a while back I had a voltage issue after switching to an underdrive crank, my alternator fried itself. No matter what my operating voltage at the cars voltage sensor read at 12.6-12.9.
First I tried an over driven high output alternator from powerbastards. It didnt work and brought more problems. Switched back to a new stock alternator and had to replace my BCM at the same time. Back to square one voltage would not go over 12.9.
Had Jeremy Formato run an extra wire from the battery to the alternator and also added an extra ground. He made it look clean as if from the factory, props to his fab work. It solved my problem and my gto on cold starts it would read 14.5 at the dash. Only problem was that on cold starts it would take about 20 seconds for it to go from cranking 12v to 14v+. If that is even a problem...
My concern is that when starting cold I am at 14.5v but as the car warms up and reaches operating temps I drop, in stop and go traffic, to 13.6v no lower. It may just be the heat of miami and longtubes causing this but I dont know.
I would like to find a way to keep it at 14-14.5v
I am considering one of 3 options.
1. As I am going supercharged, I am selling my underdrive pulley. I am thinking going back to the stock crank pulley and that should be fine for my alternator output at idle. If anything my alternator spinning 25% more than it is now and maybe that in itself keeps my idle output up. The only worry I have is if the heat is in fact causing the drop when warmed up then it will carry over in this option. (No cost)
2. Get a 10% overdrive crank pulley. Same heat problem as option number 1. (500-600$)
3. Like option 1 back to stock crank. Switch to an 8237-270-XP-OE High Amp alternator ( ive seen videos of this bad boy under heat testing and it works ) and hope it meets my expectations. (700$)