Going from supercharger to twin or single turbo.
12-04-2018, 10:56 AM
#22
You should read through my thread. It tells you everything I have and so far its working fine. There should be no reason not to beleive that i'm not at 550-600rear at 10psi. Once you go turbo, you;ll soon find that you'll want to be able to control the boost how you see fit. I was confused as to what controller i needed to get. I only wanted to do it once because you'll have $400 or more tied up in it. I researched for a few weeks, watched videos and asked questions. I found out that what i needed was a controller that had true boost by gear. The eboost2 advertises that it has this but after reading up up in, I came to the conclusion that it doesnt have a true boost by gear, its times or something like that. It doesnt know what gear you are actually in. the setup I chose actually knows what gear im in. It also give you room to grow, supporting many other functions. And it cost less money than all the other systems. simple 4 wire hookup.
I chose an aeromotive pump because they are known for being one of the best fuel pump manufacturers out there. I have not converted to return style system yet. so far it works perfect.
I chose an aeromotive pump because they are known for being one of the best fuel pump manufacturers out there. I have not converted to return style system yet. so far it works perfect.
Geat info! I’m reading your thread now on my lunch break. I have a manual 6speed would the boost by gear work for my set up or is there another option?
Also, that aeromotive pump, how many lph? What’s your injector size? I’m sure I’ll find out on your thread as I keep reading. Thanks for clearing up the uncertainties I’ve had so far with this build.
Last edited by Javi7808; 12-04-2018 at 11:03 AM.
12-04-2018, 11:01 AM
#23
Would I have the same buck issues with my car being a manual? Perhaps I can use the BTR stage 1 turbo cam?
12-04-2018, 12:53 PM
#25
fuel mileage. less heat. But i'm not, because it bucks. I would rather lock it tho. My car isnt a race car. I drive it and I like to retain decent fuel mileage. Some things are important to some people and others could care less. This is my preference. And yes locking the converter does help with fuel mileage, theres several routes on my way to work where theres lower speed limits.
12-04-2018, 12:57 PM
#26
I would think so unless you kept it in a higher gear, its more dependent on load and rpm than just speed. Being its a six speed, you;d probably be better off. But do know, for some reason, this cam has a weak idle. so i'd go with something in the 218-222 intake and 230-234 exhaust on a 114-115 lobe separation. Thats what i'm going with. Probably that new summit cam. Or Texas speed. My pick with price being no factor would be texas speed.
12-04-2018, 01:02 PM
#27
fuel mileage. less heat. But i'm not, because it bucks. I would rather lock it tho. My car isnt a race car. I drive it and I like to retain decent fuel mileage. Some things are important to some people and others could care less. This is my preference. And yes locking the converter does help with fuel mileage, theres several routes on my way to work where theres lower speed limits.
12-04-2018, 01:15 PM
#28
when it shifts into overdrive at that low of a speed(yes I do that too) the rpm barely drops because of my stall. Now if I had a stocknor tighter converter, it would be better. I’ve played with it all sorts of ways. I have very extensive tuning time in my trans tune so it mimics the way a stock vehicle would act, also taking in account for the stall. I’ve logged fuel mileage each way. I spent way too much time on the trans tune but if drives very good because of it. I’ll check it out tho.
12-04-2018, 02:13 PM
#29
when it shifts into overdrive at that low of a speed(yes I do that too) the rpm barely drops because of my stall. Now if I had a stocknor tighter converter, it would be better. I’ve played with it all sorts of ways. I have very extensive tuning time in my trans tune so it mimics the way a stock vehicle would act, also taking in account for the stall. I’ve logged fuel mileage each way. I spent way too much time on the trans tune but if drives very good because of it. I’ll check it out tho.
12-04-2018, 03:59 PM
#30
fuel mileage. less heat. But i'm not, because it bucks. I would rather lock it tho. My car isnt a race car. I drive it and I like to retain decent fuel mileage. Some things are important to some people and others could care less. This is my preference. And yes locking the converter does help with fuel mileage, theres several routes on my way to work where theres lower speed limits.
12-05-2018, 08:59 AM
#31
Launching!
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Davisburg, MI
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The On3 75 dimension isn't the inducer (larger) number? I can't find clear specs on the 78/75 turbine.
12-05-2018, 09:11 AM
#32
Compressor Wheel 78mm
.80 a/r
4” Inlet and 2.5” Compressor Outlet
Inducer- 78mm[h1=left]Exhaust Side:[/h1]Exhaust Housing T-4 Flange
.96 ar Exhaust Housing
3.0″ Vband outlet
Exducer- 76mm
.
12-07-2018, 06:36 PM
#33
Specs are listed on their website for the small sides. Compressor inducer 78mm and turbine exducer 76mm:
Compressor Wheel 78mm
.80 a/r
4” Inlet and 2.5” Compressor Outlet
Inducer- 78mm
.96 ar Exhaust Housing
3.0″ Vband outlet
Exducer- 76mm
.
Compressor Wheel 78mm
.80 a/r
4” Inlet and 2.5” Compressor Outlet
Inducer- 78mm
Exhaust Side:
Exhaust Housing T-4 Flange.96 ar Exhaust Housing
3.0″ Vband outlet
Exducer- 76mm
.
12-07-2018, 06:50 PM
#34
Hey guys! My first bundle of parts came in today!
Got an on3 78/75 turbo, aem wideband, weldable bung for oil drain, oil feed fitting,oil feed plate for engine, wastegate, a set of truck headers.
still having a hard time uploading pics, gonna try on my computer when I get home.
Got an on3 78/75 turbo, aem wideband, weldable bung for oil drain, oil feed fitting,oil feed plate for engine, wastegate, a set of truck headers.
still having a hard time uploading pics, gonna try on my computer when I get home.
Last edited by Javi7808; 12-07-2018 at 10:05 PM.
12-09-2018, 11:21 AM
#35
this is a pretty nice kit, costs $669.00 i think it has all ill need. but as i get ready to checkout my order i get this thought in the back of my mind that maybe there's something better out there for the same or cheaper price. I've seen many videos online of this cams idle and i notice its not as choppy as what i have now. i love the sound of a lopey idle!!
If anyone can recommend me a good cam/kit it would be greatly appreciated. im gonna make the order in the next hour.
12-14-2018, 08:05 PM
#36
Sorry I've been ghost this past week. Ive been working late and when I got off, I would work on my car for 2 to 3 hours a day.
I ended up ordering the btr stage 2 turbo cam kit. came with double platinum springs pushrods, etc.... came in today.
I also ordered a new billet steel double roller chain and gears, new aluminum round power steering reservoir painted in black, a new aluminum 1L coolant reservoir also in black both are for when i relocate to the passenger side to make room for turbo. Ordered a Melling m295 oil pump just to be safe.
So far Ive taken off my intake, heads, front components and headers. I'm sending in my heads to get the btr spring kit installed tomorrow and a get a good cleaning etc...
I noticed that the heads had ls6 yellow springs installed, pretty cool, can probably sell them to fund the turbo build.
Also noticed that the pistons were slighly dished without the + sign stamped in the middle but still had the little dot on the side. i thought lq9s had flat top pistons?? could this be something else?
Anyway Im gonna order a set of ls9 head gaskets and arp bolts also a front end gasket set tonight. then after i drop off my heads tomorrow im gonna install the cam. might try to tap the oil pan for the oil drain/ feed but i think im gonna have to pull the engine out.. well see
I ended up ordering the btr stage 2 turbo cam kit. came with double platinum springs pushrods, etc.... came in today.
I also ordered a new billet steel double roller chain and gears, new aluminum round power steering reservoir painted in black, a new aluminum 1L coolant reservoir also in black both are for when i relocate to the passenger side to make room for turbo. Ordered a Melling m295 oil pump just to be safe.
So far Ive taken off my intake, heads, front components and headers. I'm sending in my heads to get the btr spring kit installed tomorrow and a get a good cleaning etc...
I noticed that the heads had ls6 yellow springs installed, pretty cool, can probably sell them to fund the turbo build.
Also noticed that the pistons were slighly dished without the + sign stamped in the middle but still had the little dot on the side. i thought lq9s had flat top pistons?? could this be something else?
Anyway Im gonna order a set of ls9 head gaskets and arp bolts also a front end gasket set tonight. then after i drop off my heads tomorrow im gonna install the cam. might try to tap the oil pan for the oil drain/ feed but i think im gonna have to pull the engine out.. well see
02-10-2019, 11:07 AM
#37
Im back and have done a bit to the project but been really busy lately so here's what I've done.
After pulling my engine apart i decided to swap in gen 4 rods and pistons in my gen 3 block, bought a set of rods on craigslist for a gen4 lq4 and took them and my block to the machine shop to balance.
I get a call a week later and they say i can't use the rods due to four of them have been spun and the lower half o the rods have been cooked to black, i thought the black was just grease or something.
as i always do, i end up turning things into an all out build.
machine shop tells me id be better off going with forged H beam rods and turbo forged pistons 4.030" since im gonna be making some decent power. also they're gonna file fit my rings for a turbo application, arp rod bolts, install coated bearings for my new btr cam and everything else, balance and clean the block.
so far I've ordered a new double roller timing set, ls9 head gaskets and all other gaskets needed, new crank pulley, and some other little things for when my block comes back in.
once i have my block with the heads back on it i can figure out how im gonna do the hot side. i already have a set of truck manifolds an an extra passenger side header. was looking online but couldn't find any already made turbo manifold for drivers side mounting of the turbo, just passenger side. any one know who sells a kit for a gto? in case i fail at making them myself?
After pulling my engine apart i decided to swap in gen 4 rods and pistons in my gen 3 block, bought a set of rods on craigslist for a gen4 lq4 and took them and my block to the machine shop to balance.
I get a call a week later and they say i can't use the rods due to four of them have been spun and the lower half o the rods have been cooked to black, i thought the black was just grease or something.
as i always do, i end up turning things into an all out build.
machine shop tells me id be better off going with forged H beam rods and turbo forged pistons 4.030" since im gonna be making some decent power. also they're gonna file fit my rings for a turbo application, arp rod bolts, install coated bearings for my new btr cam and everything else, balance and clean the block.
so far I've ordered a new double roller timing set, ls9 head gaskets and all other gaskets needed, new crank pulley, and some other little things for when my block comes back in.
once i have my block with the heads back on it i can figure out how im gonna do the hot side. i already have a set of truck manifolds an an extra passenger side header. was looking online but couldn't find any already made turbo manifold for drivers side mounting of the turbo, just passenger side. any one know who sells a kit for a gto? in case i fail at making them myself?
02-10-2019, 01:45 PM
#38
No one makes a single kit that doesn’t make you run the exhaust out the hood. That’s why I built mine. I didn’t like how the truck manifold turned out so I made a log style that the crossover goes under the engine and trans and comes into the back of the driver side log manifold.
02-28-2019, 10:39 PM
#39
No one makes a single kit that doesn’t make you run the exhaust out the hood. That’s why I built mine. I didn’t like how the truck manifold turned out so I made a log style that the crossover goes under the engine and trans and comes into the back of the driver side log manifold.
i found a diy kit on eBay for $250 that comes with a 12” of schedule 40 straight, a 90, a 45, a 2 1/2” vband clamp and flangees, an ls exhaust flange. Gonna order it tomorow. For now I have received most of my parts to put the engine back together. Apparently the machine shop did not file my rings at all and I’m gonna have to do it my self. Would there be a different ring gap calculation since I now have 4.030” forged pistons now?
