STRIPSTAR

iTrader: (4)

I noticed that my brakes are great until they get real hot, like 5-6 laps in. They pedal is still fine but this pulsation/vibration starts. I goes away after they cool and are fine the next time until they get that hot again. smooth as silk with no warp when cold. Any idea what is causing that?
I have hp+ hawks and Brembo blanks

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

id say youre overheating them, but i dont see how it would cause a pulsing when hot, then go away when cool. did this happen just once, or every time you track. have you ever cut the rotors, even just a finishing cut to see if they were warped or not.

STRIPSTAR

iTrader: (4)

There not warped - they are newer rotors and the last set did the same thing. They are super smooth until real hot .Im thinking its something else like the abs not reacting smoothly or too much play in the tie rod end?. Maybe something is loose but it should pulse cold no? Boiled fluid should make the pedal mushy no?

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Try one thing at a time. First, get better track pads. Hawk makes some, but I prefer Carbotech. With 30 minute races, in a 3000lb car, and no brake ducts, my XP12s have never faded.

After that, try fluid.

You may want to remove your ABS fuse to see if the ABS is a problem.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Sage advice. Move slowly through the causes so that you can correctly diagnose the real issue. Changing a bunch of stuff at once and the problem magically disappears doesn't tell you what the issue was.

I have used Hawk pads before and just didn't like them. Their wasn't an "in-between" pad compound ... it either glazed and chewed rotors.

I too transitioned to Carbotech pads, although not as agressive as the bayou racer has. In my 3300lb CMC race car, XP10s on the front and XP8s on the rear give me a great feel, balance and amazing wear. I can do a whole season (6 race weekends) on a set of rears and 2/3 of a season on the fronts.

STRIPSTAR

iTrader: (4)

I run ate fluid already. I will bleed them as usual and try a carbotech pad. They seemed popular at the track so fine by me. Anyone running koni DAs stiffer than half way in the front. Seems alittle soft for race rubber.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

I might try those XP10s, Mitch. I only get 2-3 races out of my 12s. But, they're great!

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

My 12s went away a lot faster than the 10s, but I did get more than 2-3 races. You must STAND on the brake pedal.

From what I recall, the 10s and 12s didn't feel to much different except in heat range. It took a lot more heat to get the 12s to start grabbing hard. The 10s are good to go after a couple hard stops.

In a sprint race, you need brakes very early on.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

Excellent info. I think I'll try them out.

Yes, I do stand on them. Probably why my brake hop is worse than most. I just can't stand leaving anything on the table. On almost every turn, I brake to the point of brake hop, and keep it right on the edge. If there is a pebble in the road, the rear hops.

Cap'n Pete

iTrader: (2)

Does the pulsation feel like ABS kicking in? When I've run with street pads, and started to heat them up (only a couple times that I've ever really noticed) I would say there is a "weird" feel to the pedal. I suspect it's been partially due to boiling the fluid, since the brake pads were NOT track pads, thus, I really had to stand on them and ride them a lot longer than I would a high friction pad, so they generated and built-up a lot more heat ...

... at least, that's my theory on the whole thing .

However, that was a couple years ago, and since then, I've only run a true "performance" pad on the front. I've run everything from Hawk Blues, to HT14's, to DTC70's, all with good success, and I've been happy with the feel (and NEVER any brake fade ... and I've never run any cooling ducts either!).

I don't know if the HP+ pads are really cut out for that much use & abuse on the track. Again, I suspect you COULD be boiling the fluid, and that may be the pulsing "feel" in your pedal. Just a thought.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

My vote is the ABS. Personally, I'd pull the fuse, as already suggested. I run HP+ pads, although with cooling ducts, without issue.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

ive been dealing with my personal brake problem, and came to the cunclusion that it WAS the rotors. they were warped right out of the box. brembo blanks. i had them cut with a very light finishing cut today, and it showed the rotors were warped. brand new, no miles on them.

dont count out the fact that the brembo blanks may not be perfect. it could very well be them. have them cut, or put different rotors on and see if it happens.