ChrisRZ28

When I did my first HPDE (Sears Point), the only thing I had done to my car is pads, brake ducts (I just attached them to the lower airdam), had wheels/tires on it already, a 35mm sway bar, and a poly/poly panhard bar which I since replaced (rod/rod adjust.) long ago because the poly deflected enough to let the 315s rub the inner fenders. I brought with me a variety of fluids, rags, tools, etc. Everything fit into one of those big plastic totes that fit in the back seat. That first time was uneventful, but my second time (at Sears) I ran into a problem because I have a auto-tragic transmission. When I did the first HPDE I left the trans in drive. When I did the second HPDE I left it in second (stupid move) and overheated the powersteering fluid which popped the cap off (the dip stick was gone) and sprayed the engine compartment with fluid. The one thing I didn't bring was duct tape. Someone who was pitted next to me let me borrow his tape. Amazingly the cap was still in the engine compartment so I was able to refill the fluid and tape (alot of tape) the cap back on and limped home. Overall, I had alot of fun. If I hadn't left the trans in second, I wouldn't have a Turn One pump now! You don't need a bunch of spare parts for a HPDE if you just use your head!

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for all of the help guys -- I'm obviously completely new to this.

I WAS having tire rub issues with the stock panhard bar and crappy knock-off brand shocks (I thought they were stock Decarbons with 50K miles on them however I just learned otherwise when we pulled them this weekend). We installed an UMI on-car adjustible panhard bar, new SLP Bilsteins in the front and rear and rolled the fenders so that should've fixed the tire rub issue.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Will. I'm heading out there on June 6th with Chin Motorsports. Have a few buddies joining me and all 4 of us are 100% beginners. I've already agreed to leave my ego at home and just go out there to learn and have fun. It should be a really good time.

The tire rubbing issue is finally resolved (adjustible panhard, better shocks in the rear and rolled fenders).

I may be in the Marietta area shortly (heading over to my buddies shop to get the new rear tires mounted, balanced and to get a fresh alignment).

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Is it a heim end or roto joint on both ends Panhard rod?

What size tire and what wheel?

Shocks have no control over tire rub issues.

Mark2002

iTrader: (2)

1st of all, I'm no expert (only 3 HPDEs) but here's my experience. My 1st was MSR cresson in Oct 2010. Car was an '02 M6 Z28 with bone stock suspension, brake rotors & calipers, 16x8 wheels (the optional polished ones ) and 245/50R16 tires. The car had bolt-on engine mods (headers, exhaust, lid, etc and a 160deg thermostat). Only "mods" I made specifically for the HPDE were:

• complete brake fluid flush with ATE Super Blue
• Hawk HPS brake pads front & rear
• "street performance" front end alignment

The results of my weekend??

• HAD A BLAST!
• Learned power steering fluid will come out of the tank even though the cap is there
• Learned my 50 series tires REALLY like to roll over when I enter a corner too fast no matter how much air I put in them
• Listening to the instructors even when what they say seems counter-intuitive I learned how to drive my car better which actually winds up being easier on it
• Did I mention I had a blast!

Things I changed because of the results of my first weekend:

• Entered the turns slower
• Flushed the power steering system with Redline fluid
• Installed a new power steering cap

Results??

• Power steering fluid still likes to come out... just less. May be the fresher fluid, may be better technique on my part
• 50 series tires are just too tall. Could probably learn to treat them right, but even though I'm patient, this was a choice on my part not to be THAT patient!

Have fun with it, be smooth, and keep an open mind... some things aren't as obvious as one might think... at least that is my experience.

Mark.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

it will always come out. use a scrunchie or rubberband a rag around the cap and itll be fine.

Mark2002

iTrader: (2)

Yeppers... picked up on that in this thread. Plan to give it a shot my next time out I'll also add it to my "things I changed because of..." list

Mark

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

I blew my powersteering cap off at the end of my second day at the Glen. The seals on the pump actually let go and fluid exploded everywhere. There was enough white smoke that people behind me thought my engine let go. I think I'm actually lucky there wasn't a fire even though I have the vetteworks bracket with a fire extinguisher just in case.

Edit: Forgot to mention that the powersteering cap just disappeared too. I've never heard of drilling a hole in it though. May not be a bad idea...

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I
Shhhhh, us newbs don't know squat Lmao.

I know I wasn't the only guy this stuff happens to.

The small hole in the cap stops it from breaking and blowing off the cap. Makes a Damn mess don't it?

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

having a pump failure is one thing. that would of course cause things to blow apart. but it simply flying off all by itself with no other reason...........????

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Come on, really?

My pump was whining so loud it sounded like a cat in heat.

The reservoir got so hot it melted the wiring harness that runs behind it.

You reckon there was enough pressure in that reservoir to break the locking ears off the cap and send it flying?

Mine did, 3 times.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Great insight! I appreciate your help!

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

OK, one more noob power steering pump cap question.

It sounds like many of us have experienced SOME fluid coming out of the cap. One remedy would be to put a rag or scrunchie around the cap to presumably sop up the fluid. Another idea would be to get an extra cap and put a small hole in the top of the cap and then cover it with a rag.

Any reason NOT to put a small hole in the cap? The caps are cheap and I don't mind spending a little extra for that safety of knowing that the pressure isn't going to build up and blow the cap off. Even if it's unlikely that would happen, the only downside to doing this I can think of would be the cost of the cap (which is minimal). Any other reason NOT to drill a small hole in the cap?

As far as the size of the hole -- are we talking pin hole or are we talking about a diameter similar to the size of a standard metal (uncoated) paper clip?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

No one will argue you will PS lose fluid.
No one will argue you will generate a ****-load of heat in the pump due to valving and subsequent flowrate.
No one will argue that the PS steering system is a weak point.

But experienced one will argue that buzzing the motor to any where near the rev limiter is a gross and unnecessary abuse of the gear which will create all kinds of problems, which include killing the PS system.

If you are Joe Stud and will certainly set FTD, then go ahead and win practice ... and pay a steep price.

Be smart and you will be just fine.

Fold a towel, cover the cap and hold it place with a scrunchie. Or don't worry about it, don't kill your car trying to prove something that is unprovable, have fun ...


Edit:

As a data point ...

I race in CMC and we are very limited on what modifications we can do. Basically, nothing to a motor or engine management.

I have a Turn One pump (before I discovered PSC), small cooler and over-sized aluminum PS reservoir. And on an LT1, it's even remotely mounted. And because I can't alter the PCM, I'm limited to stock revs, but shift at 5300 because that where the sweet spot is for TQ v HP with my gearing.

All that to say ... I still get fluid out of the reservoir. It's not going to stop.

If you are ejecting caps or pushing seals, there are contributing factors beyond entering in your first DE to cause it. If you buzz the motor over 6K lap after lap after lap after lap, then you have to expect bad things to happen.

But my experience tells me that TQ is what drives you out of corners, not RPM. Short shift and you'll be amazed at how much more speed you can carry down a long straight.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Mitch is right, I was shifting at 5300-5500 by the tach, I didn't know at that time the factory tach was THAT Slow, but apparently it is. I have since learned real rpm was closer to 6000.

I have since put a PSC pump and cooler on the car and will lower my shift to 5k when I go back to Barber next weekend.

OffspringZ28

iTrader: (8)

Looks like you got it all covered in your first post man. I have not had PS problems yet. Although I could have sworn 01-02 SS cars had powersteering coolers from the factory. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Pony Exp.305

iTrader: (6)

good information for first timer..

Arctic2002ss

Yes, they do have a cooler but like most things aftermarket is better.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Even mine with a cooler and PSC pump spits some from under the cap. My buddy with the same type car that turns his engine harder than mine only has a Turn One pump without a cooler, his reservoir stays dry.

BTW, running the fluid hot like that shortens the life of your rack and pinion. Mine went **** up recently, blew the seals out of both sides.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Yes, its "cooled" with 210* engine coolant.

Mount a decent radiator for a tranmission and you should be good to go.



My race car has a Turn One pump AND a 4 pass cooler. I shift at 5300. Still get fluid weep out of the cap.