I think you will regret NOT having a cam once the engine is installed. If you are at a point in a build where installing the cam is easy, I say do so. I think the HotCam or something a tad more aggressive will suffice considering your plans for the car. Again though, I would shoot for a profile that provides more average and torgue under the curve vs. a cam that adds 10 hp but only at 6800 RPM but causes surging and bad idle characteristics as the trade-off.

FYI, I don't have my dyno sheet in front of me, but this cam makes a nice torque curve for what it is, even with stock heads. Even down low (I often leave from a stop in 2nd).

 

also, is a .585 lift ok on the valvetrain?

 

You are correct, but I was suggesting a came based on the OP asking for help setting up a car for road racing. Everyone drives their cars differently when they go to an HPDE, I understand that. But I would assume that if someone is building a car specifically for road racing, they wouldn't be taking it easy with their car on the track. There is a vast difference between the run groups and in the upper run groups, it feels like an un-timed race because cars come behind you hot, and you close in on cars hard into the corners. In the upper run groups if you take it easy you'll be eaten alive by a guy in a $180,000+ Porsche GT3 who's pissed you're out there just to have some fun and taking it easy. Some HPDEs are even running full passing in the upper groups...can't wait to take part in one of those.

When I built my car for road racing, I built it ***** to the wall. Killer brakes, killer tires, sweet spot power (440-470rwhp), 4-point bar, cooling, gearing, and suspension. Do I race it competitively? Not including competing in autoX events, no I don't but knowing that I can beat the snot out of it is nice. You should build the car in anticipation for the all out potential of what you want to do. If you drive the car hard, you don't want any issues to occur because you decided to run a more aggressive rocker arm or steep cam with a high lift.

 

The general rule of thumb is to keep lift bellow .600 on an LS1/2/6 engine. I say that .575-.585 are the highest I would run at the track comfortably, but it also has to do with ramp rate. A more aggressive ramp rate on the cam can actually be more punishing than a higher lift with a less aggressive profile. I would also avoid using a 1.8 rocker.

 

Make no mistakes guys, I'm building the 67 with all the best stuff I can buy or make. When I'm on track I don't take it easy on the WS6 at all! You see the looks I get when I put the ram air hood in someone's z06 mirror lap after lap until they let me pass. The reason. For my question is there are many times I wish I had more torque out of a corner and the two engines are the same now in the two cars, it would be easy to do a cam swap at this point and you guys have told me exactly what I wanted to know.

 

You can play with the cam timing a bit too. Advance will give you a bit more low end at the expense of top end, and vice versa. Though tedious (and most avoid it), it's one way to fine tune to a particular track configuration.

Andy1

 

 

Nothing I have is good for posting because I'll need to edit it. I'll get some footage on my phone and see how it turns out and post it up.

 

There is nothing more than I love doing and that is getting in some track time.
Nothing really special about the car or driver.
Car
Gm hot cam
unported 02 LS6 heads
LS6 inatake manifold
Longtube headers
owner tuned with efi live
Movit brakes
RA1 tires
LGM Coilover system
I shift the car at 5500 rpms.
Car has gone a top speed of 191mph on the autobahn.
Hot cam is no slouch and it also has 50,000 engine maintenance free miles on it.
Current mileage is 80,000.
This is jus one of many vids I have with the setup described.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZyVW...0&feature=plcp

 

Awesume Video! You've got some really good brakes, thats for sure! What was that silver exotic? Couldn't tell from the video, was it an R8 or something even more exotic? That track looks really fun too. I'm going to try and get some video from VIR in March when I take the the WS6.

 

That little silver bullet is a Opel Speedster.

 

Does anybody have any thoughts on the f11-13 cams from futral motorsorts for road racing?

 

The F11-13 cams would be fine for road racing but if you want a more precise cam for your setup just use the link below and fill out the information. Make sure you add that you want a cam for a road racing application and maybe Allan can come up with something better for your specific needs. The cost of a custom cam vs. an F11-F13 is the same.

http://www.futralmotorsports.com/customcamworksheet.asp

The worksheet is best viewed with Internet Explorer

 

Roy that is so different than USA HPDE. It appears there is no "point by" for passing and you can pass anywhere. It almost seems like wheel to wheel racing. Very cool. In the states, there would be carnage with that style of HPDE. Great work BTW.

 

Agreed! Way to many different skill levels there on the track at the same time. However, I wish we could pass without a point by, I've followed people around in thier mirror lap after lap and they would'nt point me by because of the stigma of getting passed by an F-body. I end up going in the pits to get some spacing and run with different cars when that happens. I'll be happy when I can finally move up to the open passing HPDE's, Time and Money...

 

I have been reading this with great interest as I am looking for a cam for my LS1 with LS6 heads and admission, and a 3.90 rear.

I am looking for a good reliability, and torque to get out of corners. I am not racing but like quiet competitive track days here in France, together with Porsches.

As my tuner is used to working with Vengeance products I was thinking about the VRX3 : 226/228 .585/.588 114 LSA.

What is your opinion about that choice?

thanks