4th Gen drift build
4th Gen drift build "The Bandit" No drift section obviously, this is the closest build specs to it. I know, everyone thinks they suck as drift cars, just like they suck as road race cars in most peoples opinion. I figured I have the car, no sense in buying another chassis and all the swap parts in, to just go have some fun in. I plan on running the car in the local pro-am next season with some massive weight reduction, but for now this should do. First event for me is next saturday. Heres where she's at so far,
It was an auto V6, swapped it all over to LS1/T56 from my street car.
This includes the 35mm front sway and 21mm rear, some eibach pro line's, KYB's, and I had to sell the fikse just because I didnt want to ruin them.
Then I made a little jig and got to modifying my uprights for some more angle
All done
A little comparo
stock
mod
I can turn in a tighter circle than a civic now!! Unfortunately its to much angle for the 50mm offset 17x9's though, so I just ordered some new wheels. Wont help me for next week unless shipping is super fast. Bunch more mods coming this weekend and hopefully some testing at a buddy's "track"
It was an auto V6, swapped it all over to LS1/T56 from my street car.
This includes the 35mm front sway and 21mm rear, some eibach pro line's, KYB's, and I had to sell the fikse just because I didnt want to ruin them.
Then I made a little jig and got to modifying my uprights for some more angle
All done
A little comparo
stock
mod
I can turn in a tighter circle than a civic now!! Unfortunately its to much angle for the 50mm offset 17x9's though, so I just ordered some new wheels. Wont help me for next week unless shipping is super fast. Bunch more mods coming this weekend and hopefully some testing at a buddy's "track"
Last edited by Jenson; Aug 25, 2014 at 01:26 PM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 67
Likes: 1
From: Orlando, FL
I'm a road racer and autocrosser so while I've really never drifted I certainly have put the car into some nice drifts both intentional and unintentional. I would have never thought to mess with the steering geometry and don't think you really need it plus I worry about welding on cast metal.
Stiff springs, good adjustable shocks, big sway bars and a really good differential are going to be the ticket. I had Eibach Pro Kits on my car early on and now with nice stiff linear rate springs it is so much easier to toss the *** end out, apply a little power and have some fun. I'm sure you can drift it just be very careful to never go full lock and allow for contact between the tie rod and sway bar end link or control arm.
Stiff springs, good adjustable shocks, big sway bars and a really good differential are going to be the ticket. I had Eibach Pro Kits on my car early on and now with nice stiff linear rate springs it is so much easier to toss the *** end out, apply a little power and have some fun. I'm sure you can drift it just be very careful to never go full lock and allow for contact between the tie rod and sway bar end link or control arm.
I've actually had the uprights on the car for 2 months. This is how all drift cars used to go about it. Now they make fabbed sheet metal or even billet uprights like the blu808 camaro. I've talked with MWC about making me a custom front suspension setup. It'd be fairly simple since they have the jigs already.
Suprisingly it slides really well right now, I can just go into a corner at speed, turn in, and at apex add just a touch more steering input and out she swings. Trust me, these cars need more steering angle. We all know they suck from the factory, and all the nissan's, yota's, bimmers, and even the newer stangs have a ton more from the factory.
I really want the KW V3 coilover, since it's the only coilover I've seen for these things. Body roll feels minimal now, should be able to see it with some action pictures, we'll see. Going to order a watts link and SFC from MWC whenever they give me a price on one for the 10 bolt. I've got the aurburn diff now, but want to build an open carrier with mini spool and 4.10's
Suprisingly it slides really well right now, I can just go into a corner at speed, turn in, and at apex add just a touch more steering input and out she swings. Trust me, these cars need more steering angle. We all know they suck from the factory, and all the nissan's, yota's, bimmers, and even the newer stangs have a ton more from the factory.
I really want the KW V3 coilover, since it's the only coilover I've seen for these things. Body roll feels minimal now, should be able to see it with some action pictures, we'll see. Going to order a watts link and SFC from MWC whenever they give me a price on one for the 10 bolt. I've got the aurburn diff now, but want to build an open carrier with mini spool and 4.10's
Had tons of fun my first time out. Time to order some upgrades now!!! And more tires. Heres my last 4 runs of the day on some 285's that actually had a little grip going for them compared to my first set of rears.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGSiN...CgEFr4SPRAW98=
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGSiN...CgEFr4SPRAW98=
looking good on the vid.
what sizes are you running on the rear?
and did you feel the added steering angle was really necessary?
I am asking because I tried drifting my TA and felt that she was really snap happy
and thought too that the added steering angle would help out some.
what sizes are you running on the rear?
and did you feel the added steering angle was really necessary?
I am asking because I tried drifting my TA and felt that she was really snap happy
and thought too that the added steering angle would help out some.
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I ran 275's and 285's (285's in the vid). I need more grip, or less power for that surface. It has been sealed recently so it was super slick. Im gonna try and find some 315's for next time. Yes the added angle is the only way to go with these cars imo. Now I just need more to really throw it out there. There were a few instances were more angle would have saved a spin and I could have pulled it out, one example in that vid. And I was told that you can really tell my car is heavier than all the rest, even my buddies 2900lb IS300.
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Jenson, I admire the work and dedication to proper geometry. Here it comes.... but.
I also weld. A lot. Welding cast is just never a good idea. Its almost.. And I say almost for the .0000001 percenter's out there who truly do it by the book and then only get 1/2 of those welds to be confidently safe. It just always cracks and break later.
Out of care, not out of just being an *** on here and saying "Look how much I know" Please dont bet your life on those cast welds.
Take Care man and have as much fun as you can.
- Bruce.
I also weld. A lot. Welding cast is just never a good idea. Its almost.. And I say almost for the .0000001 percenter's out there who truly do it by the book and then only get 1/2 of those welds to be confidently safe. It just always cracks and break later.
Out of care, not out of just being an *** on here and saying "Look how much I know" Please dont bet your life on those cast welds.
Take Care man and have as much fun as you can.
- Bruce.
I totally agree Bruce. I have a perminant fix for it that will get me more angle and requires no welding. But I need tubular lower control arms and move the sway bar pickup back or make a new one that attaches from the bottom.
I'm a road racer and autocrosser so while I've really never drifted I certainly have put the car into some nice drifts both intentional and unintentional. I would have never thought to mess with the steering geometry and don't think you really need it plus I worry about welding on cast metal.
Stiff springs, good adjustable shocks, big sway bars and a really good differential are going to be the ticket. I had Eibach Pro Kits on my car early on and now with nice stiff linear rate springs it is so much easier to toss the *** end out, apply a little power and have some fun. I'm sure you can drift it just be very careful to never go full lock and allow for contact between the tie rod and sway bar end link or control arm.
Stiff springs, good adjustable shocks, big sway bars and a really good differential are going to be the ticket. I had Eibach Pro Kits on my car early on and now with nice stiff linear rate springs it is so much easier to toss the *** end out, apply a little power and have some fun. I'm sure you can drift it just be very careful to never go full lock and allow for contact between the tie rod and sway bar end link or control arm.
Welding on cast metal? Don't take this the wrong way, but I wouldn't do this on a car I'd have to trust my life with.
I'm pretty happy as I finally found some coilovers geared towards handling and not drag racing that don't cost $2-$3K. Hopefully I'll have all this stuff ordered from MWC by the end of the week.
Welding on cast is very tricky, but if you tig it and burn it in deep it seems to hold up well. I put huge angles on the two pieces that were welded together, so that the soft filler rod had a lot of room to penetrate. I was also way off on how long they've been on the car...almost 10 months now as I did that last july. I will be running all tubular next year though. There really isnt any other way to get increased angle other than modifying the steering rack internally and that pick up point.
Welding on cast is very tricky, but if you tig it and burn it in deep it seems to hold up well. I put huge angles on the two pieces that were welded together, so that the soft filler rod had a lot of room to penetrate. I was also way off on how long they've been on the car...almost 10 months now as I did that last july. I will be running all tubular next year though. There really isnt any other way to get increased angle other than modifying the steering rack internally and that pick up point.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
Ordered their SFC, LCA's, watts link, and afco pro touring single adj with 650/200 springs. Also ordered an open carrier, 4.11 gear, and mini spool. Hoping the gear will let me use 3rd instead of 2cd. Got some 17x9 +20 offset wheels on the front friday, no more scrubbing the lower control arm!! Going to get some CTV brembo's for the front now, and make my own dual rear hydro setup.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
Ordered their SFC, LCA's, watts link, and afco pro touring single adj with 650/200 springs. Also ordered an open carrier, 4.11 gear, and mini spool. Hoping the gear will let me use 3rd instead of 2cd. Got some 17x9 +20 offset wheels on the front friday, no more scrubbing the lower control arm!! Going to get some CTV brembo's for the front now, and make my own dual rear hydro setup.
And why a spool? Wouldn't that make the car tend to understeer?
My buddy said the same thing, a lot of the info I've been looking at online is for cheap drifters who's car starts with an open diff. So welding it into a spool is the cheapest and quickest option. A nice clutch type 2 way would be the better choice. I need to look into the auburn a little more to see what it actually is. Maybe I already have the right diff in the car
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
It just sucks spending money twice...
My buddy said the same thing, a lot of the info I've been looking at online is for cheap drifters who's car starts with an open diff. So welding it into a spool is the cheapest and quickest option. A nice clutch type 2 way would be the better choice. I need to look into the auburn a little more to see what it actually is. Maybe I already have the right diff in the car
