Well since someone posted in here this year, ill conclude my results were pretty good. The car ended up in the following form:

Forged 370 lq9, ported and revalved 862 heads, ported fast 102/nw102, 42Lb injectors, asp underdrive, pacesetter longtubes, tsp 233/239 cam. Made 460rwhp.

4 Used 315/35/17 hoosier a6s
Hand me down kyb gas adjust struts/shocks
Strano springs
Used brembo gt big brake kit from craigslist
Hawk hp+ pads
Umi road race k member
All new bushings and ball joints
Adj panhard bar
The above alignment specs
Stock sway bars (needed upgraded badly! Holy body roll)

My brother would get Fast time of the day every event with the same modifications as my car but a much needed fays 2 watts link and new hoosier, adj torque arm, rear adj lcas.

This year the car is getting converted to a street/strip car with a turbo, and I bought a C5 frc for autox/track days

 

^ what he said

 

I got an alignment recently and asked for a -1.5 to -1.75 camber and they weren't able to come anywhere close to that lol. It ended up being -.5 on both sides. They showed me the front LCA's were pushed outward as far as they could go in the slots and only got -.5 camber.

Stock suspension at 60K mi except for adj PHB.

95 Z that is DD and getting into AutoX to start, then hopefully move into RR.

Is it even possible to get -1.5ish camber out of stock parts?

Ohh, and frrax gives the message that they are not accepting any new registrations lol

 

These cars have lots of tolerance in their factory build specs. If the lower control arms are pulled out all the way, .5 might be all that you get. In your case some aftermarket uppers like the global west arms would allow for more camber. Also, if you can find them strano used to make offset bushings for the stock upper arms that allow for more negative camber. Next time you are under the car, check to make sure the LCA bushings aren't worn out, that might have an effect on your alignment.

 

Also, I didn't notice that your car isn't lowered. If you lower the car, you will get more negative camber. But getting more camber out of the parts you have probably isn't going to happen.

 

Something else you can do if you don't feel like shelling out money for new A-arms is to slot the camber holes on the your k-member. I can get -2.0 if I want. I'm at -1.4 right now but I did lower my car a bit more so that number has probably changed. I don't remember how much I opened the slot (it's been years), but I think I left 3/8" of metal between the hole and the side of the k-member. You might want to search Frrax for more details.

 

You have to email the admin to get an account.
Something to do with them knowing a real person is asking for an account, not computer generated.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm not a huge fan of slotting the hole since I am still on stock suspension. If I can't get the desired alignment AFTER some Strano springs/shocks then I will look into it.

I will email the admin of frrax now.

 

I was only able to achieve -.8 with stock A arms. With my Global West A arms I can up to -3.4.

 

If you plan on lowering, then definitely wait. That alone will get you more desirable alignment specs. After that, if you decide that more camber is needed, slotting the adjustment holes is the cheapest way, and there are no downsides to the modification. It does not compromise the strength of the k member and many track only cars have done that modification. Personally, I installed the global west upper arms which like Camarokid said allow you to get up to 3 degrees, along with adding more caster. My car formerly had strano offset bushings, but even with a relatively low 26" fender height, I maxed out at 1.5 degrees negative.

 

I just had mine done


Camber 2.7/2.5

Toe 0

Caster 3.9/4.5

Stock everything with slotted lower arm holes.

 

Are you taking more rights than lefts? Why the extra .2 on the left?

 

All my tracks are clockwise.

Actually its 2.7/2.6

 

I am just getting into setting up my car for DD/auto-x/HPDE track events. After installing my Koni SA 4/4, springs, and UMI double roto PHB I was going to get an alignment but after some reading I saw that the stock specs are not the best for what I am going for. I do all my own work on the car including an upcoming CTS-V brake install and cam install. Are there any good tools so I can do my alignment at home as I would like to adjust it as I begin tracking the car. I saw that the latest summit racing catalog had an alignment checking jig for $150 with an optional toe adaptor for $50. Any recs for what I would need to do this job on my T/A?

 

Buy this to make your life easier





I have been looking at this.

http://www.quicktrickalignment.com/