When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Had a perfect race weekend, car was still in perfect condition when it went back in the trailer Sunday afternoon. So got home and decided to restore my old set of black BBS basket weave wheels. Good news bad news.
Good they didn't fail on the car because all 4 centers are cracked and not available till the end of the year. I've got 12 more in the garage to crack check. Need to have 2 good sets for my other historic IMSA GTO car. Sheezer did nothing wrong but still got nicked.
Shopping some new affordable Jongbloed wheels now. I know what I'm getting for Christmas, 8 new wheels.
Last edited by Passmenow; Jan 20, 2022 at 02:37 PM.
How well does that set up work for road racing? I’m looking to do a full build on my car and I’m kind of at a loss for what kind of rear end to use so I’d like to get some input from people running different types.
Ford 9 inch may be overkill, but this or a Winters rear end like in the 3rd Gen with a 10 inch gear are very strong.
Now a torsen gleason may be the best diff for your car.
The 3rd gen has one and it is very smooth.
This 5 car has a locker and it works great too.
Disadvantage is the locker only engages when you are on the gas.
Both Camaros have a Weismann transmission.
On the back of the trans are 2 spur gears which can be changed to modify the final drive ratio.
Kind of like a quick change you see on the back of a quick change rear end
It's a little more simple to change spur gears than to have a few different ratio 3rd members to swap out for different tracks.
You might get away with an 8 inch with a limited slip on your project?
My car is factory IRS. I’m looking around at different ways to cut a couple corners and save a few dollars here and there without too much compromise in performance. I thought about doing a 9” because of the availability, reliability and cost, but I don’t know if I can justify the initial cost of converting to a straight rear axle when a winters quick change costs about the same. Either way, my rear end will have to be almost entirely fabricated from scratch to get it either one to work. I may do it, I might not. I’m only in the planning stages with my car right now (it’s a LS BMW).
Had a very good experience with Winding Road.
I had bought a new Stillo helmet with helmet blower and radio (mic and ear muff speakers) installed.
Both those systems had a glitch so WR sent my a free return shipping label and I sent the helmet back.
With in a couple days they fixed the issues at no cost and sent the helmet back.
Jason at the Austin Tx store was very helpful.
I will try to give them more of my business in future. https://store.windingroad.com/
Dropped off the car at my favorite race shop. https://www.bryansracing.com/
On the list.
Replace all fuel lines with swedged lines with teflon centers.
New Project Mu brake pads. The pads are custom cut with a water jet and then pre-bedded in so they are good to go.
New brake whips.
Add more rebound to front shocks. Requires shock dyno and shims.
8 new Jongbloed rims should arrive in March.
Run it this spring then back to the shop for a long summer service.
Then install new 750hp 18 degree engine, new pulleys and belts.
(That allows me to keep the current 730hp 18 degree engine as a back up engine).
New gold heat reflective fire walls.
New SS tumbled header without the muffler.
New clutch and throw out bearing.
Then with any luck all it will need is gas and tires for a couple years.
What kind of engine are you running? Also, manual brakes or ABS? I’m doing manual brakes on my car because ABS is just another wiring system that I won’t have to deal with.
What kind of engine are you running? Also, manual brakes or ABS? I’m doing manual brakes on my car because ABS is just another wiring system that I won’t have to deal with.
The 5 car has an 18 degree engine. Redline is 8200 but I short shift to increase engine life.
The car is geared so that I can run a 7800rpm rev limiter but I try to shift around 7200rpm. 18 Degree engines became available in racing back in the late 80s early 90s.
My other car the 10 raced in 88 and still had the 23 degree engine which it retains to be period correct and eligible to race in historic IMSA GTO events..
I think modern Nascar engines are running 12 degree or less valve angles now.
c&p 18 refers to the angle of the valves in relation to the piston centerline. The 18 degree generally flow more than the 23, and the 15 more than that.
Your standard V8 23 degree cylinder heads , even better ones available, normally an intake flow numbers in the 270 -310 CFM range. Stock Chevrolet heads rarely surpassed 240 cfm, most of the 23 degree heads use the stock components like rocker arms, push rods, etc.
in the 12-18 degree heads normally cannot use any of the stock components, require special push rods, special rocker arms, and of course the different cylinder heads themselves, many if not most require offset roller lifter cams, special machine work, special headers, special pistons, and they are designed to work best only at high rpm (above 5000rpm) and high valve lifts (above .600 lift) port size can run 235-290cc, cost of the complete setup , including the heads, cam,rockers, pushrods, intake, and special machine work seldom come in under $4500 and frequently much higher, but you do get the increased air flow that allows a 358-410 cid displacement to make 650hp- plus in a correctly set up engine, short answer, there great if you have very deep pockets, but they are not to be thought of as a standard or a cheap upgrade.
No ABS. I look at an ABS block with all the brake line fittings and have no desire to mess with that.
I had a C5Z I tracked and absolutely hated it when the brake pedal would pulse as the factory ABS shuddered.
I fixed that by installing some big front brakes and then the ABS shudder went away.
Both my cars have 4 piston calipers all around. 2 master cylinders with a manual adjustable balance bar.
I like to start out cold and dial in a little more front brake bias as it is easy to catch the car on cold tires if the front locks up first.
If the rear locks up it will spin.
As brakes, tires and driver warm up I can dial in a little rear brake and get maximum deacceleration.
I really enjoy left foot braking and with this set up have had no issues flat spotting the expensive slicks.
This was my first time in the 5 and it was geared for a shorter track and I was shifting frequently at 8200rpm.
Running the car a little more conservatively now to reduce engine expenses.
This was last November when I thought I had no video I recently found this short clip.
My Go Pro turned off before the restart so there is only a lap and half here.
Car just came back from the shop.
3 new Master cylinders and reservoirs, rebuilt calipers and new Project Mu pads.
All new swedged fuel lines, additional front shock rebound.
8 new Jongbloed wheels should arrive next week.
Next race May with VARA at Buttonwillow.
How can I get one of those but as a Trans Am? lol
Very nice ride you have there!
Thank you, it's almost perfect.
This summer it gets a new engine with more power and a new clutch and TO bearing, new gold heat barrier firewall and a new tumbled stainless steel header with straight pipe.
If I could pick any livery it might be the Hot Wheels 4th gen.
Made labels and replaced some cool shirt o rings.
Thick Suede wheel, if it gets shiny rough it with a wire tooth brush.
Perfect grip with these modern gloves.
Brakes were totally rebuilt.
Added a temp sensor on the caliper and blocked the brake ducts with a little tape.
If the brake pads run cold they will not work well and it could damage the pad.
New (blue) Project Mu pads needs to be run at 500 degrees.
3 new master cylinders, rebuilt 4 piston calipers, new brake whips.
All lines (fuel and brake) swedged and pressure tested.
This summer when it gets a new engine we will swedge the oil lines too.
Got the brake bias dialed in as it says 10 rounds from the right is where there was 500lbs more front brake bias.
Good to know so we can always find home on the brake bias, and make notes for each track when I change the bias.
I try to get 8 or 10 heat cycles out of my slicks.
So between races they are removed, they get a light coat of WD40 and wrapped in saran wrap and kept in a cool dark corner of the garage.
Hopefully slows them from drying out between races.
The new Jongbloed wheels with slicks.
Now the 4th gen has 12 wheels, 8 new Jongbloeds and 4 roller only cracked black BBS basket weave wheels.
Was thrilled to find my remaining 12 gold BBS basket weave wheels all passed crack check, they will be saved for historic racing the 3rd gen IMSA GTO car.
A photo of the front shock down stop.
We added more front rebound to help stop the nose lifting on acceleration.
Got my helmet radio wired and ready.
Nice Stilo provided predrilled holes so I did not have to drill any holes in the helmet.
I like having a spotter as you can't really see that well out of the car, added big round side mirrors that helped.
Inquired about some new slicks, Goodyear says they will likely run out of my size this summer.
Bummer they can't tell you when the next shipment will arrive.
You know ideally we like to buy them fresh a month before a race.
So instead of getting 4 ordered 8, get them while you can.
I put a durometer on 4 older slicks and that convinced me to live large and get new slicks.
Besides my wheel management is perfect so I do have 8 wheels that need slicks.
At least both my race cars run the same size slicks.
Price went up $110 on a set of 4. (I joked oh so they went up about the price of a Nascar slick?)
Racing would be a lot more affordable if slicks were cheaper, but at least they are still available.
With the race cars in the best condition ever I can't see compromising them on hard slicks.
Next Friday test at Buttonwillow.
New Master cylinders, rebuilt brake calipers, new brake whips, New Project Mu brake pads.
See photo, Added more rebound to front shocks, jacked down the front more. was still lifting the front too easy during acceleration.
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
