Oil Pan
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,223
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From: Hamilton Ontario
Oil Pan So motor went boom. Oil pan went with it. I was planning on doing some lapping with the car and since I need to replace the pan any recommendations on pan and scavenging. Will be going with a stroked crank also.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 723
Likes: 25
From: go get your shine box tommy
What was your setup, experience and plans for the car? (HPDE/class racing).
Standard setup is factory oil pan with IR baffles and crank scraper, quality oil like Redline, and fill an extra quart. Also need a decent cooler as these things run hot on track.
Standard setup is factory oil pan with IR baffles and crank scraper, quality oil like Redline, and fill an extra quart. Also need a decent cooler as these things run hot on track.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 2
From: Hamilton Ontario
The car will be mostly street driven but I really want to get back to some lapping days on smaller courses. I had done a couple of years of Solo 1. I will be running R compound tires.
What are IR baffles.
What are IR baffles.
Does the extra quart apply to f bodies? A fellow racer reported better mid corner oil pressure by reverting to a factory fill.
If you're going to spend ANY time on a road course, you've got to pay special attention to the oiling system. As said above, you need a good pan and an accumulator. Obviously, a dry sump would be optimal. But that's a lot of money and complexity for occasional track use.
I sort of like the Canton road race pan because the baffling is excellent, and the cover is a bolt in job. That makes it real easy to clean out. The downside is that Canton pans are known to have some quality control issues: Tough to seal, welds that leak.
On my LS1 powered track car, I have a Kevco pan. It has a higher build quality. Easy to seal up, and no significant leaks. However, the top of the baffle is welded in. I have to rebuild the engine this year because of internal trauma. I think I'll have to cut that cover out to get it really clean. And then make it a bolt in.
I sort of like the Canton road race pan because the baffling is excellent, and the cover is a bolt in job. That makes it real easy to clean out. The downside is that Canton pans are known to have some quality control issues: Tough to seal, welds that leak.
On my LS1 powered track car, I have a Kevco pan. It has a higher build quality. Easy to seal up, and no significant leaks. However, the top of the baffle is welded in. I have to rebuild the engine this year because of internal trauma. I think I'll have to cut that cover out to get it really clean. And then make it a bolt in.
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I have the Moroso 21150 kit for the 98-02 f-bodies and it comes with a Milodon oil filter relocation kit. It's a 6 qt pan and the oil filter uses another quart. Been working well on the street car and I'd also want to run an oil cooler if I was going to be road racing.
Not in my car. Because it's Miata based, there's very little room in there. The front of the pan clears the steering rack by about 1/2" or so.
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Attachment 713764
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 723
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From: go get your shine box tommy
Improved Racing baffle, it bolts in the factory oil pan to keep more oil in the pickup area for high g turns. They also have a crank scrapper, oil cooler adapter with built in thermostat 5hat takes the place of the little cover thing about the oil filter, as well as many other great products.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 723
Likes: 25
From: go get your shine box tommy
Last edited by mikedamageinc; Jul 10, 2020 at 07:48 AM.
The current theory is that an overfill gets the crank whipping the oil up, but at road race RPMs the pan shouldn't be full so the jury's still out at this point.
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 723
Likes: 25
From: go get your shine box tommy