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I just installed a MWC watts link on my TA. I autox my car so I figured it would be a good upgrade for it. I have searched the forum for specific set up and specs but haven't really found anything. I know at ride height the 2 bars connected to the diff should be as parallel to the ground as possible which I made sure to do. I loaded the rear on the lift to what it is at ride height and set the clamps and bars so that the 2 bars are parallel and the diff is centered.
What I am looking for it how do I know when to raise or lower the center support and what turning the 2 bars in or out would do. What inputs from the car am I wanting to feel so I know what to do to correct it.
To level the bars, you need to move the propeller mount up or down to a new mounting hole on the main frame. I can't tell from that pic if the MWC has multiple mounting holes, but it probably should. That's how you adjust your roll center as well. I haven't set up my Fays2 Watts yet but I suspect you don't want much tension on the bars to avoid binding.
Set the propeller around the middle or a little lower. Go autox or test somewhere safe that you can push it. If it oversteers move prop lower, if understeer move higher. Each time the prop is moved you have to make the bars parallel again. This is also assuming front is already set the way you want with caster/camber/alignment and ride height all around.
Last edited by mikedamageinc; Oct 12, 2022 at 10:33 AM.
To level the bars, you need to move the propeller mount up or down to a new mounting hole on the main frame. I can't tell from that pic if the MWC has multiple mounting holes, but it probably should. That's how you adjust your roll center as well. I haven't set up my Fays2 Watts yet but I suspect you don't want much tension on the bars to avoid binding.
I put the rear at ride height while on the lift then adjusted the diff clamps and tension arms till they were level. Put it on the ground and the diff was centered. The middle adjuster is set on the second hole from the bottom
Set the propeller around the middle or a little lower. Go autox or test somewhere safe that you can push it. If oversteers move prop lower, if understeer move higher. Each time the prop is moved you have to make the bars parallel again. This is also assuming front is already set the way you want with caster/camber/alignment and ride height all around.
It's set on the second to bottom hole. I have an event at the end of the month. I will test it then and see how it feels. This is the information I was looking for as far as adjusting. Thanks
Set the propeller around the middle or a little lower. Go autox or test somewhere safe that you can push it. If it oversteers move prop lower, if understeer move higher. Each time the prop is moved you have to make the bars parallel again. This is also assuming front is already set the way you want with caster/camber/alignment and ride height all around.
Correct me if I didn't understand what you said. If you set the bars level at your ride height, lets say the pivot in the middle, the bars will remain parallel regardless of where you move the pivot, just as they remain parallel through wheel travel. You do not need to re-level the bars. Therefore, you can change the pivot at the track, even in between runs.
Finally had the autox to see how the new tires and watts link performed. Got to say, it felt a lot better then before. I'm sure the tires had more to do with. Had little to no understeer. When I turned the wheel it griped and went. Rear was alitte lose if I got on the gas too much in a turn but definitely felt more planted. On my last run went a 49.5. my other runs were in the 52-53 second times. Pushed it harder on the last run to see what I could do. Very pleased with the time.
Correct me if I didn't understand what you said. If you set the bars level at your ride height, lets say the pivot in the middle, the bars will remain parallel regardless of where you move the pivot, just as they remain parallel through wheel travel. You do not need to re-level the bars. Therefore, you can change the pivot at the track, even in between runs.
Yes you want the bars parallel to each other but also parallel to the ground so they are in the middle of travel. If you tweek the pivot a little at the track for fine tuning it should be fine but I would then adjust the axle mounts just to make it right but may not be completely necessary
WATTS LINK set up 
