mySStery_machine

iTrader: (23)

I used to run Solo Class C with my white 94 Camaro V6. I put alot into the suspension and thought I did pretty damn well. I now have a 00 SS and want to get back into the sport. I'm looking at KB Diamonds, should I still be getting rail type subs? Or X frame it and...???? Also Who makes the fattest front sway bar Suspension Tech at 35mm or is someone making a 36mm? Ithought I saw that somewhere. And in the rear of course whats the biggest, 26mm? Im not sure. Im doing relocation brackets, full hotchkis adj panhard and thinking adj LCA is that a good idea? Plz gimme ALL that is in your minds. Wanna eventually step up in the classes. Brakes?? Wildwood, Baer...??? Camber/caster settings I usually had 2 in the red before is that still applicable to the newer Camaros as well?
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<small>[ June 13, 2002, 01:08 PM: Message edited by: mySStery_machine ]</small>

rcclass

What you do depends on what class you want to race in. The calsses I will discuss are for SCCA Solo2. Your choices are (from stock to modified):

SuperStock - Stock C5's, SS's, The newest RX7's and the like.

E Street Prepared - Street Legal Mustangs and F-cars, slightly modified ie: Headers and Intake, STOCK SUSPENSION.

Street Modified - Engine free-for-all, Suspension free-for-all(must maintain stock mounting points), Full Interior Must have 2 front seats, may repove rear.

C Prepared (aka: The Ground Pounders) - Mostly F-cars and Mustangs, No Interiors, Composite Body Pannels are alowed, Engine internal free-for-all, Suspension free-for-all(must maintain stock mounting points).

If you want to use SFC's you will have to race in C Prepared, or Street Modified (I race in this class). Also, the SFC's cannot connect to eachother, ie: no X.

I have found that a bigger sway bar on the fron is not always better It will make the car PUSH LIKE A B!TCH. I have the 32mm hollow 1LE bar on mine and it works great. The best thing you can do to your car is free up the rear end of binding, get rid of the rubber bushings and repalce them with heim joints. It WILL be loud, but will make a BIG improvment.

Don't bother making everything adjustible, it just creates more variables. Also, do not bother getting a STB. It just adds weight and makes the front too stiff and it will push worse.

Also, before you buy any parts, think about long term plans for the car. If you want to race in C Prepared, your competition has cars that are not driven on the street, have NO interior, make >400 Hp, and have Sawzalled Bodies to fit the 12" wide slicks under them.

The stock rotors will work fine. Just change the fluid to something like Motul 600, or equivalent, and go with Earl's SS Brake Line Kit. Panther pads work good too. DO NOT USE SILACON BRAKE FLUID! Too mushy.

I currently run -1.5 Deg camber, .25" Toe Out, can't rember my caster.

Hope this helps, sorry for the delay,

Roger

<small>[ July 10, 2002, 09:14 AM: Message edited by: rcclass ]</small>