What are you guys running on the street and with what problems. Camber 1.2-1.5? Caster? I have A-arms and K-member so I can go more but like the tires to last 2-3 month at least.

 

On the street, I run no more than a * of camber, and 5* caster. Roughly a 1/16th toe out. Other than that, I can go a year on tires.

Just dont run an aggressive setup on the street, and you will be fine.

 

As Louis noted.....

I was initially using my street tires on the track too & I set-up with 1.5 deg neg. camber. GREAT for the track but at 100 miles per day regular driving...... it killed the tires from the everyday use.

I dialed back to 3/4 degree & it's much better, but....now I use up the outside of my track tires.......that's the trade-offs of a daily driver for track use.

My caster is at 5.5 degrees and I like it.... helps with stability with the big tires.

 

I'm running 1.3 deg of negative camber, 4.5 degrees of castor and 1/16th inch of toe out. I just set my 2002 Z28 up with this alignment (after the H&R springs and Koni DA's) and it handles great. I ran a similar setup on my 1989 Formula for many years and would get about 12,000 per set of front tires (maybe even 16,00 to 20,000 miles) and I ran it hard everywhere I could (now I play at the racetrack like I should). I may need to change my castor setting on this car up towards 5 degrees or so, but they cancelled my last autocross and I've seen no track time with a pyrometer yet (or even without a pyrometer). Good luck.

 

I will be runing 315 nitto 555R on the back and 275 kumo on front. So what about toe in 1/16 to get help with push pull. And does anyone run -1.2" camber?

 

On the street, I doubt you will see much difference between 1.2 and 1.3 degrees of camber (and depending on how talented we are as drivers, it may not show up in lap times either). If this car is a daily driver (non-track car) and you just want it to handle well and not eat up front tires, I follow lou's suggestion and stay around 1 degree with a stock castor setting (4.3-4.8 degrees is the stock range as I remember...from a hunter alignment rack) and a minimal toe setting. I run 1/16th inch of toe out and the car tracks great and the turn in is much improved. But, on the street it is probably not necessary to run toe out, you may never realize the full potential of that alignment spec on street rubber under "normal" driving conditions. You should be off to a pretty good start wint any of the specs in this thread, if you are wearing tires, take out some camber or toe, etc. Good luck.

 

Forgot to mention, different spring, shock, and sway bar setups will need different alignments, best to use a pyrometer to check your setup at the track and adjust for max grip that way(if it's a track car).