Mod Guide for AutoX...
1. Tires, get some good R compound tires.
2. Front sway bar
3. Koni SA shocks with stock springs (can't change them in F stock)
4. Cat Back exhaust ( only if you want it, it is basically the only power mod allowed).
5. This is the most important, get some serious seat time. If possible have someone who drives a similiar car drive yours and you will see just how slow you are. Then start working your times down with experience. All the mods in the world won't make up for experience.
Also, I know several people that have placed at SCCA Nationals with the above set ups on their f bodies, though they were also 6 speeds. Don't let that auto discourage you from getting out there though.
For more in depth info, try fraxx.com, or corner carvers.
Josh
Also, ask that experienced autocrosser who drove your car for any advice on what to change as far as alignment/suspension settings are concerned.
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Hell, i let my buddy who drives a new GT have a run in my car and he spanked my best time so far that day on his first try. So I copied what he was doing and then went faster than he had by a couple seconds.
Would be very helpful to get an f-body guy in just to see how slow i really go haha.
The dude with the GT is encouraging me to stay within F-stock regulations (take off lid, etc) to give myself a better chance of competing, but to be honest, atm i'm just out there having fun. There are a couple meets next month in the area, so it should be great!
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As for knowledge, it's out there. If nothing else I'm here and have a little experience with these cars (and others) and autocrossing.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Plus there is no rush, i want to make sure i only spend money once and get it right the first time.
Plus there is no rush, i want to make sure i only spend money once and get it right the first time.
Another vote for F stock and seat time.
Anyways, after you spin out your first time...or second (ask me how I know) youll see just how many seconds youll knock off your time from just slowing down.
When I was out there that day I went about 2 seconds slower in 1st just from the amount of wheel spin, but then again that comes back to seat time.
Not saying that I would have to shift to 3rd, but when you have traction/lack of experience out there youll try anything to keep the power in check.
it's really true, slow = fast.
Josh
Can you sand down the fins on the inside of the stock lid and ditch the bafflers and still stay f stock? i'm guessing not haha
Most of us that have the 300+rwhp array of bolt ons would find ourselves outclasses in the auto-crossing division that would put us in (unless you have a lot of seat time, etc.).
I definitely agree on the tires, seat time opinions given above. There's also a post of some of the things I did to prepare my car for some Road Atlanta track days events...
Now if I leave my car in ONE the whole time, like 60seconds of racing, could that damage the motor or anything if its revving up so high? If I'm up and down with the RPMs and then constant. What if I bounce it off the rev limiter acouple times and overrev? Could this really damage and hurt my car? Should I just leave it in TWO so I have a 2nd gear and no worries? I figured I'd do ONE so its not constantly changing from first to second on me.
It's a '98 Camaro Z28, 49K miles, A4, 2.73 gears with a DMH cutout and lid. Nothing fancy. Any advice or suggestions would be helpful.... (cept the jokes where F-body's aren't suppose to turn well) HAHA. Im doing it for fun.
Maybe ill just try the "drive" instead.


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